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08-12-2007, 18:22
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#1 (permalink)
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Posts: 9,929
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Good ideas for screw extraction, please
Uncovered what looked like a loose cap screw on the idler arm (image 1), but it turned out to be a brokes grade 5, 5/8 dia bolt (image 2).
The broken bolt is in the water pump housing, so if it comes to a worst case, it can be taken off and brought to a machine shop.
I have used screw extractors in the past, but they seem to be too long and flex a lot and then they break, is there something out there that can be turned with an impact?
Thanks.
__________________
Bjorn
MEP-018A (needs new generator head)
Avatar: XM757 in OK prepared for 1,000 mile trip home. Part of 6,000 mile journey in 2006.
1968 M49A2C modified with 1960 M756A2 truck bed and 1975 HIAB 765A knuckleboom, exhaust brake and more. (SOLD)
1969 Ford XM757 8x8, 5-ton Pershing 1A truck tractor...the "improved MV".
"Some things can't be made better, just differently......a lot of things actually"
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08-12-2007, 18:27
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#2 (permalink)
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4 Star General
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,234
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RE: Good ideas for screw extraction, please
you may be able to drill a hole right thru it and use a screw extractor without too much trouble.. Secondly, you need a washer on the bolt holding the alternator in the adjustment bracket.. some folks are able to burn them out and rethread the hole..., or weld a smaller bolt to the stub and heat it a little and back it right out... too
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08-12-2007, 18:38
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#3 (permalink)
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Posts: 9,929
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RE: Good ideas for screw extraction, please
There is a washer present, just not a very large one.
I'm soaking the broken bolt with a penetrant while I'm considering my options.....
__________________
Bjorn
MEP-018A (needs new generator head)
Avatar: XM757 in OK prepared for 1,000 mile trip home. Part of 6,000 mile journey in 2006.
1968 M49A2C modified with 1960 M756A2 truck bed and 1975 HIAB 765A knuckleboom, exhaust brake and more. (SOLD)
1969 Ford XM757 8x8, 5-ton Pershing 1A truck tractor...the "improved MV".
"Some things can't be made better, just differently......a lot of things actually"
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08-12-2007, 18:40
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#4 (permalink)
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Moderator (and wonderful human being)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Athens, Ga.
Posts: 7,651
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RE: Good ideas for screw extraction, please
Bjorn, SnapOn used to make an extractor that was splined. You drilled the offending fastener out in the center, then beat the splined end in with a hammer, then turned it out with your chpice of ratchet, impact, etc.
I just looked on their website and did not see it. Perhaps one of the major tool vendors offers a similar version.....OTC, Mac, Matco, Cornwell, S-K, etc.
__________________
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2011 Ga Rally pictures: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/ga-rall...ia-thread.html
__________________________________________________ _____________________________
1968 Baifield M274A5 Mule
1967 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 W/W w/dump conversion
1987 AM General USAF M35A2C w/w
1987 Turtle Mountain M105A2
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08-12-2007, 18:50
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#5 (permalink)
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Fleet Admiral/Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Loxahatchee, FL
Posts: 21,807
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RE: Good ideas for screw extraction, please
I had 2 snap off in the front hub of the M108. They were easily backed out with a punch. I have no clue why the bolts broke.
__________________
Arm yourself with the sword of knowledge, read the TMs.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/technical-manuals/
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May you Sail in the Grace of Our Lord, Chaplain!
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08-12-2007, 18:56
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#6 (permalink)
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Posts: 9,929
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RE: Good ideas for screw extraction, please
A punch, that's an idea, at least it may loosen it up.
Thanks Clinto, I have to watch that "beating it in with a hammer" thing, it's a grade 5 in a casting. Water pumps for the dash two don't exactly grow on trees...
__________________
Bjorn
MEP-018A (needs new generator head)
Avatar: XM757 in OK prepared for 1,000 mile trip home. Part of 6,000 mile journey in 2006.
1968 M49A2C modified with 1960 M756A2 truck bed and 1975 HIAB 765A knuckleboom, exhaust brake and more. (SOLD)
1969 Ford XM757 8x8, 5-ton Pershing 1A truck tractor...the "improved MV".
"Some things can't be made better, just differently......a lot of things actually"
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08-12-2007, 18:58
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#7 (permalink)
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Central NY
Posts: 12,391
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Re: RE: Good ideas for screw extraction, please
Quote:
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Originally Posted by clinto
Bjorn, SnapOn used to make an extractor that was splined. You drilled the offending fastener out in the center, then beat the splined end in with a hammer, then turned it out with your chpice of ratchet, impact, etc.
I just looked on their website and did not see it. Perhaps one of the major tool vendors offers a similar version.....OTC, Mac, Matco, Cornwell, S-K, etc.
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I have used this style of extractor with good success http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....mp;dir=catalog
I believe Hanson actually makes the Snap-On set.
From what I see in the picture, If you have a wire feed welder you could try to hold a nut over the broken bolt and weld it on (through the internal nut threads)
Any shock or heat cycles you can apply to the broken bolt should help also.
I really like the idea of using left handed drill bits also!
__________________
M818, M819, M35A2 w/w, M35A2, M109, M561 w/w, M274, M1008A1, M146, M105, M116A2, M101A2, Pioneer tool trailer, MEP-002, MEP-017A, 1990 Dodge Tug, 5ton winch shear pins
Proper Use of Capitalization and Punctuation
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08-12-2007, 19:12
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#8 (permalink)
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4 Star General
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 2,204
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RE: Good ideas for screw extraction, please
Bjorn, Looks like you can get a good shot at it with the belts loosened and the alternator swung out of the way.
I began using left-hand twist drills a while back with pretty good success. Start by making sure the broken bolt end is as flat as it cen be. Next, punch a center mark to make sure the drill doesn't wander. Drilling with increasing dia. drills sneaks up on it and gives you control over wandering off and getting into the threads, and taking the center out weakens it's grip on the threads. Next, at some point the drill is bound to grab and when it does, siince it's turning the same direction the bolt would unscrew, it'll spin the broken piece right out. Remember the two broken pressure plate bolts we took out of your flywheel while we were doing the rear main seal job?
Even if you use the regular Easy-Out or similar extractor, it's best to drill all the way through to the bottom of the broken piece, allowing it to "collapse" and release it's grip on the threads.
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Jones
Sacramento, California
baby HEMTT
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08-12-2007, 19:16
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#9 (permalink)
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Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Posts: 9,929
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RE: Good ideas for screw extraction, please
I like that Leonard. That's what you used on my flywheel wasn't it? I know it worked like a charm.
__________________
Bjorn
MEP-018A (needs new generator head)
Avatar: XM757 in OK prepared for 1,000 mile trip home. Part of 6,000 mile journey in 2006.
1968 M49A2C modified with 1960 M756A2 truck bed and 1975 HIAB 765A knuckleboom, exhaust brake and more. (SOLD)
1969 Ford XM757 8x8, 5-ton Pershing 1A truck tractor...the "improved MV".
"Some things can't be made better, just differently......a lot of things actually"
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08-12-2007, 19:16
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#10 (permalink)
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4 Star General
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Brooklet, Ga
Posts: 1,897
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RE: Re: RE: Good ideas for screw extraction, please
If you can get to it easily, I have used my small wire welder to very carefully build up the center of the bolt. Than place a nut over that and weld it. The heat usually lossens it up and it comes out.
__________________
Lloyd Strickland
Brooklet Ga. 30415
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