Dump Truck Running Poorly - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite

sandcobra164 · 03-24-2010, 07:53

I helped another member recover a M817 out of Albany. The truck made it to my house (15 Miles) but is running poorly. It will only run at full throttle and if you let the clutch out too quickly and bring the rpm's down, it will stall. It is hard to crank without ether as well. Please steer me in the right direction, this truck needs to go about 350 more miles to it's owner's home and he wants to drive it. I told him that I'd take a look at it but I'm new to the 5 tons. Please give some suggestions as to what I need to check so that we can have a more successful recovery effort.

Ferroequinologist · 03-24-2010, 08:00

Fuel filter changed? if it is blocked it would cause hard starting and starvation issues at lower throttle settings. Also, I would check the fuel line for air leaks, especially the tank valve under the cab. There are a couple of rubber hoses that like to crack and split on that valve. Air getting into the fuel line could allow the engine to run if it is pulling the fuel through fast enough to overcome the air leak.

5 tons don't have in tank pumps.

Floridianson · 03-24-2010, 08:25

I just went through this on mine . Take off step and tool box. Use razor knife cut off all rubber lines. For now just get 2 feet of fuel line both sizes. connect just to one tank and see how she runs. I would not run the fuel as is . I added 30 gal. of fresh stuff and the fuel additive before I ran the motor. I changed the oil in the motor before started to. Mine running much better now but a little sluggish on the pickup. Here I am going to have the pump rebuilt. Also when the valve is off the truck I will put pressure on the valve under water and check it out to.

BKubu · 03-24-2010, 08:37

Driving a truck home 350 miles that has been in storage and sitting for a long time is asking for trouble. I agree with the previous two posters. Change the fuel filter, oil and oil fiter...add fresh fuel and conditioner...check for air leaks in the fuel lines...make sure there is an air filter in the cannister (I've seen them get removed and not replaced) and make sure a rodent or bees have not made a nest in the cannister.

kipman · 03-24-2010, 08:40

You can call me at 614-440-9039, worked on many 5 tons, I am on my way now to get 3 dumps running that have sat for 10 years, Kip Thompson.

sandcobra164 · 03-24-2010, 09:10

The owner did bypass the tank selector valve and just has the driver's side tank connected to the fuel filter inlet. Can anyone provide a good Napa part # for the fuel filter? I'll be able to look at the truck a little more this afternoon and will try the simple stuff like draining the fuel filter, checking the intake tract, etc. Thanks for the input.

CGarbee · 03-24-2010, 09:47

I drove a M817 from OH to NC after a GL purchase a few years back. Had a buddy (AMGeneral) behind me in a M816 for the trip...

We did the filter and fluid swap, changed out the fuel line from the filter to the pump, and straightlined around the selector switch. Truck still ran just as you describe this one (good think it was bassically all intersate driving where I could keep the throttle pushed way down...

). Ended up having to have the injector pump rebuilt as it was worn out.

If you do a search on this site, you'll find more than one thread such as this one with the filter and belt numbers in it.
FIlter part#s

Meanwhile, to make your life easier:

Oil: Wix 51954 or NAPA 1954, Lubrifiner LF516
Fuel: Kaydon C220086 or Wix 33401 or NAPA 3401, Lubrifiner FS1201

I get my filters from either the local Komatsu dealer (they like Lubrifiner numbers) or CarQuest (they like the Wix numbers). Both are located about five blocks from my office...

Good luck.

jwaller · 03-24-2010, 15:18

napa fuel filter 3401
wix fuel 33401.

neither are cheap but most all of them stock it. I'd refill the filter with fuel too before reinstall.

sandcobra164 · 03-24-2010, 16:53

I drained the fuel filter (lots of water). Now I can't get the system to prime. I don't think the primer on the dash works. I took it apart and lubed the inside of it but had no luck even after about 10 minutes of pumping. I'm considering capping the fitting that currently has the plastic line run to it and see if I can prime the system by cracking open an injector while cranking. Any thought's on the priming system?

CGarbee · 03-24-2010, 17:00

It takes "forever" to prime using the dash pump... I fill the filter before I put it on, and it still takes a bit of effort.

If you have a handy source of compressed air, pressurize the tank (gently) by removing the vent line and using its fitting (just push the tip of your blowgun onto it). You'll push the fuel up to the pump that way... Have a buddy work the air while you hit the starter and you don't even have to crack a line...

If you drained a lot of water out of the filter, you should go ahead and change it. You likely have enough stuff growing in the filter to be reducing the flow a lot. You should also ensure that you don't have sufficient water in the tank that you are just pumping water instead of fuel into the system...