Multifuel bearings - Page 3 - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite

gimpyrobb · 02-18-2011, 01:53

For that price, I'll go with new. I didn't see rod bearings there though, wondering about them too.

On a side note, when I pulled this crank out, some of the bolts holding the conn. rods were TIGHT, others, not so much. If I were to use thread lock on the conn. rod bolts, you think I should go with reduced torque values(as in wet vs. dry)? I think the next time I have my oil pan dropped, I will be checking the torque on those bolts.

Westech · 02-18-2011, 02:02

No use RED and torque to Factory specs.

hndrsonj · 02-18-2011, 02:37

Try calling Clark trucks for the rod bearings.

clinto · 02-18-2011, 07:49

No way would I do all that work without doing rod and main bearings. If ARP makes fasteners that are compatible with the rods I'd probably go ahead and replace them to.

I guess if I were doing all that I'd go ahead and put pistons and liners in it.

Wait....... somehow I feel the need to go look up "mission creep"............ BBL

dittle · 02-18-2011, 08:03

Clinto's list makes it sound like it would just be easier to swap motors and be done with it.

gimpyrobb · 02-18-2011, 12:12

The motors have been swapped. The motor with the busted crank is sitting at Stretch's in a can. If it wasn't an LDS, I prolly wouldn't fix it. Turns out the motor the replacement crank came from has .10 stamped on it for the mains, guess my $75 std bearing kit from Saturn is out. Time to call George and see what he has to say.

3dAngus · 02-18-2011, 12:28

I usually just take the old bearings and sand them smoothe and round again on the sidewalk.

patracy · 02-18-2011, 12:33

I was on the path of getting ARP to make rod bolts, but they need a actual example to make them from...

gimpyrobb · 02-18-2011, 12:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by patracy

I was on the path of getting ARP to make rod bolts, but they need a actual example to make them from...

The bolts are in a bucket up at Kipman's farm. Try sending him a PM, I bet he would send one out.

M543A2 · 02-18-2011, 13:08

The number one cause of a broken crank, if broken near the center main, is a bad harmonic balancer. They are to be warmed before installing on the crank to make fitment easier, but if warmed too much, the rubber strip in them is degraded, leading to it not damping right, The result is undamped harmonics in the crank that lead to broken cranks. Be sure to replace the harmonic balancer with a known good one on any engine that broke a crank!!
Used bearings are OK if going back on the same locations and plasti-gaging in tolerance. Also check the crank journals with a mike for correct tolerance,. Also check for taper from one side of the journal to the other. Often a close study of any wear pattern on the bearing at a given crank location will tell you if there is a crank journal problem. These cranks are very hard, and seldom is wear beyond tolerance if they have been treated right by the owning organization.
Regards Marti