Yesterday, my driver was returning from Charleston, SC to Winnsboro, SC (approx 120miles) with the empty M967 tanker. At mile post 176, he noticed the oil pressure had dropped a little from its normal running warm place (around 60psi) and the temp had gone up. He also noticed an occasional wiff of antifreeze. He didn't stop, he didn't call. He drove until the oil pressure dropped to about 15psi, and there was boiling antifreeze coming in the cab through the shifter hole. Then he stopped around 2pm, and called me. He was at MM 139. So he drove it, overheating, for 40 miles. He swears the temp gauge didn't go over 200, and if he had thought it was really serious he would have stopped.
Well, I get down there, and you can't even lay your hand on the engine. Took him home, and came back with Angie around 9pm. The engine was still warm. I brought another thermostat (figured that was an easy maybe fix) Replaced it, filled it back up, and she fired up. Had to go another 40 miles to the house.
Oil pressure was right up around 80psi when I started- by the time I got to he house, it had dropped to 25psi. Not really bad, but lower than it should have been. Now I didn't really notice anything either- until the oil pressure dropped, everything seemed fine to me, and I know what to look/listen/smell for. the temp gauge would go up to 190 or so and the new thermo would open and it would drop back down. never went over that.
About 5 miles from the house, the tem gauge started acting funny- also with the oil pressure dropping, I knew it was overheating again. I limped it to the house, and when I stopped there was steam pouring out of the overflow tube on the expansion tank and after I shut it off you could hear the coolant boiling in the block. NOT GOOD
Felt the radiator, and the top is scalding hot- midway down and the bottem is very very cold. So either I have a plugged radiator, another bad thermo, (both unlikely) or a failed water pump (that's my answer and I'm sticking to it.)
I just hope the other guy and I didn't do any major damage to the engine. I've put almost 12k miles on this truck in the year and 5 months I've owned it- she just needs a break probably!
__________________ And when at last he came upon the vehicle, he perceived the distress of the engine therein and forthwith struck it with a hammer and it was good. Thereupon the engine ignited and was filled with strength...
1985 M1008 w/'hyrail' gear, EX-Ft Stewart Railroad
1983 M915a1 'Rosie'
1980 MKT-75A
1979 M967 Refueling tanker
1970 M818 'Boxer' aka M818 of DEATH
1969 40ft USA Boxcar in OD green
1968 M101
1968 M270
1967 M543 'Becka tha Wrecka'
1953 60ft Troop Train Kitchen car
1953 60ft 8 room Domitory car
1929 Plymouth 10 ton gas loco, EX-USN
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1970 M35a2w/w Whistler turbo
Bobbed by beaubeau (Now the wifes)
1970 M35A2 wo/w Whistler turbo USAF
M105a2
DJ
[10:22:58] patracy: I'm not gay
[10:23:10] patracy: after the 7th or 8th time, I realized it just wasn't for me.
If the pump were bad why would it get up to 190 then open and cool if the water is not flowing? I know it would be under presser in the block and force some cool water in but it would have to force a lot of water in to be noticeable. Because I live in Florida any trucks I keep I take the thermostat out because when it is 90+* outside the motor worms up fine without it.
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SON OF A B/TCH TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'Son of a bltch' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
An appeaser is one who feeds a crocodile - hoping it will eat him last.
- Winston Churchill
If it walks out of the refrigerator, just let it go…
[Westech] 19:40: you try smacking it with a hammer?[Westech] 19:44: I tell ya it works!
I know Bubba, it doesn't make much sense. But the temp gauge doesn't seem to be working right at all, so I'm not trusting it and will be changing the sensor and possibly the gauge.
The TM says that's the first thing to check, water pump flow. Next is to do a pressure test of the cooling system. From there though, it goes into evidence of coolant in the oil. But there isn't any in the oil. So I'm leaning towards a pump or clogged radiator.
I know Bubba, it doesn't make much sense. But the temp gauge doesn't seem to be working right at all, so I'm not trusting it and will be changing the sensor and possibly the gauge.
The TM says that's the first thing to check, water pump flow. Next is to do a pressure test of the cooling system. From there though, it goes into evidence of coolant in the oil. But there isn't any in the oil. So I'm leaning towards a pump or clogged radiator.
To check the pump i would just unhook the upper rad hose and put a water hose in the rad and start it up and see if it pumps the water threw. then you will know foreshore.
__________________
SON OF A B/TCH TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'Son of a bltch' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
An appeaser is one who feeds a crocodile - hoping it will eat him last.
- Winston Churchill
If it walks out of the refrigerator, just let it go…
[Westech] 19:40: you try smacking it with a hammer?[Westech] 19:44: I tell ya it works!
I would have kicked that drives rear.. STATEMENT OF CHARGES ring a bell?
That was my first thought to..... but then Ferro went ahead and drove the truck home with the same problems. If I were the driver I could understand an ass chewing and maybe a little more but Id have a hard time paying for any parts after it was driven without being diagnosed first.