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Old 04-30-2007, 21:39   #1 (permalink)
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Default Used Engine Oil

I don’t want to hijack the current centrifuge thread, but I have a question for all of the Waste Engine Oil purists and not-so-purists.
Do you HAVE to filter it?
The first time, it wouldn’t go through a coffee filter…at least not anytime soon. I’ve read that some go to extreme lengths to filter the engine oil…including a centrifuge. Others just drain and pour. Since I do not have the technical wizardry or budget of the centrifugal crowd, I’m thinking more along the lines of the drain and pour crowd. It’s a given that the multi-fuels, and over the road tractors so I hear, can handle motor oil as a percentage of the fuel.
So this leads me to several questions….
Is the micron filters and centrifuge really necessary? Isn’t that the reason we have 3 fuel filters?
Would the filters allow something to pass that is large enough to damage the injection pump or fuel injectors themselves?
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Old 05-01-2007, 01:00   #2 (permalink)
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you need to either filter it hot, or re-heat and filter to have any speed. I use a waste oil pump and a 1 micron filters setup and i filter hot. takes very little time to filter 50 gallons or so. Its worth the hassle. Any other questions let me know. Filtering is essential unless you dont care what COULD happen.


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Old 05-04-2007, 08:08   #3 (permalink)
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When i first started I didn't filter at all. But primary fuel filters didn't last long. I keep a spare in the glove box to get me home when it would plug. I then started to run it through a coffie filter stuffed in the tank strainer. That seemes to help the filters last longer. Although i didn't run any milage or engine hour test to see how much. I was paranoid about metal particals getting to the IP and wipeing it out. Thats why i filtered as much as i could. I'm also picky about the UMO that i would run. Is somebody did a 7000mile oil change i would respectively decline that oil.
I got the centrafuge for a song on a GSA acution. It cost me about $300 including shipping to get it home. It's not very efficent because you have to put the oil into seperate bottles and at the same amount to keep it in balence. But after a couple of minutes the oil seperates and i pour the clear oil off the top. And into the tank.
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Old 05-28-2007, 00:53   #4 (permalink)
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Can you run used motor oil (filtered of course) in the duece if the Fuel dencity compensator is by-passed?
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Old 05-28-2007, 05:45   #5 (permalink)
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A coffee filter is about 10 microns, enough for fuels without impurities (acids, water, minerals, traces of metals etc), but certainly not for used engine oil.

I wouldn't burn it for environmental reasons, and if I had to, it would only be a few quarts at a time mixed with plenty of diesel, veggie oil or biodiesel.

The FDC has nothing to do with the way your engine burns ANY fuel (see multiple related posts).

I have attached a sample of an oil analysis to show you what you may potentially feed you vintage multifuel engine. These traces of impurities are probably not even possible to filter out, if they were, an oil analysis would depend a lot on the filtering system on the engine and some go down to one micron (bypass filters). If some things were filtered out, the oil analysis would be meaningless.

Perhaps Ken can give us a before and after filtering analysis of the oil he burns.
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Old 05-28-2007, 09:51   #6 (permalink)
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A waste oil [garage] heater is a [engine] safe way to recycle it, in cold climates.JimK
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Old 05-30-2007, 07:43   #7 (permalink)
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Bjorn, That's a good idea. I've never had the oil i use analized. I think i'll have some tested. Before and after it's ran through the centrafuge. I'd like to see how clean it's really getting. Although it comes out amber in color when ran long enough there could still be things in soulition.
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Old 05-30-2007, 07:52   #8 (permalink)
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Ken, if you have more than one of them there "centrafuges", would you be willing to sell one? I think we could come up with money for a fair price for it.
Thanks,
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MEP-018A (needs new generator head)

Avatar: XM757 in OK prepared for 1,000 mile trip home. Part of 6,000 mile journey in 2006.
1968 M49A2C modified with 1960 M756A2 truck bed and 1975 HIAB 765A knuckleboom, exhaust brake and more. (SOLD)
1969 Ford XM757 8x8, 5-ton Pershing 1A truck tractor...the "improved MV".

"Some things can't be made better, just differently......a lot of things actually"
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Old 05-30-2007, 08:02   #9 (permalink)
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Man, my little worker bees threw two of those over the side of the ship when we decommissioned her....
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And when at last he came upon the vehicle, he perceived the distress of the engine therein and forthwith struck it with a hammer and it was good. Thereupon the engine ignited and was filled with strength...

1985 M1008 w/'hyrail' gear, EX-Ft Stewart Railroad
1983 M915a1 'Rosie'
1980 MKT-75A
1979 M967 Refueling tanker
1970 M818 'Boxer' aka M818 of DEATH
1969 40ft USA Boxcar in OD green
1968 M101
1968 M270
1967 M543 'Becka tha Wrecka'
1953 60ft Troop Train Kitchen car
1953 60ft 8 room Domitory car
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Old 05-30-2007, 10:38   #10 (permalink)
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Bjorn. I only have one and i'm not willing to part with it. But i got it off of a GSA auction for $50. Shipping from seattle was about $250. It has really paid for itself in cutting my fuel costs. Mabye GL has some? I tested the bio you sent me that time and it seperated it pretty quick. Mabye it could speed up your bio production?
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