Hi, was wondering how this system will work: 200l/55gal barrel-oilpump/barrelpump-2xstandard luber finner oilfilter/oilfilterhousing-m35dieseltank. Will i get the worst out so i dont need to change the fuelfilters all the time??
typical engine oil filters only filter down to 20 microns. that isnt bad, but you need to filter it more. i have mine filtering at 10 microns, but when i pulled apart my fuel filters after, i noticed some crud in the bottom... not much, but some. i am working now to filter it down to 5 microns with some spin on fuel filters. if you can filter it to 5 microns, you should be good to go. obviously filtering it more is always better too.
__________________
Tom
Its not what you buy, its what you build.
Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
I never had so much fun going so slow.
1972 M35A2 W/W
1968 M109A3 W/O W
M105A2
M200A1
1984 Libby MEP-002A
1940 Ford Pickup Street Rod
1923 Ford T-Bucket
2000 Jeep Cherokee with 6.5' Western Unimount
2003 Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom (deer slayer)
Stock deuce fuel filters(3512) are 10micron nominal so its probably 12-15 absolute. I used a set of secondary and final filters from off the side of a multi for my first filtering setup. Now I have spin on filters instead. With the final filter a 5micron so I figure it a 10 absolute. I haven't had to change filters in my truck while on the road since, but I DO carry spares just in case.
Ok, but can i get 10 micron oil filter or do i ned to have a dieselfilter/waterseparator as the final filter? Also vondering if a manual pump 20l/min will press the oil tru all filters?
If you plan on filtering, trust me, you don't want a manual pump. I recommend the water separator. Pressure gauges for the filters is good to have too.
What I have found works best for me is to store my oil in 55 gallon drums and when ready to make fuel I use a barrel pump to transfer into an open top container (larger the better for ease of time) where I then add any additional elements depending on current temperature. I use a submersible 1/6hp water pump to then cycle the mixture through a 10 micron waterblock spin on filter for a enough thime to let the entire volume to go through this filter several times. I then change the filter to a 3 micron spin on and again let it cycle and then pump into truck. The reason for cycling is the more passes the closer you will get to stated rating of the filter, multiple passes will get you near 100% of the filter rating. The reason for one filter at a time is simply flow. At first I had three in line, and in theory this seemed like a great idea, I had a bowl filter, spin on 10 micron waterblock, and standard 10 micron filter that I let cycle before I would pump through 3 micron into truck. The reality though is when I had more than one and had any kind of resistance in the filters I would get no flow (the 2 horse team is much stronger than 2 individual horses effect). Good luck and stay clean. Also, try to stay off the bottom, and if you let the oil sit you will save on your filters.
What I have found works best for me is to store my oil in 55 gallon drums and when ready to make fuel I use a barrel pump to transfer into an open top container (larger the better for ease of time) where I then add any additional elements depending on current temperature. I use a submersible 1/6hp water pump to then cycle the mixture through a 10 micron waterblock spin on filter for a enough thime to let the entire volume to go through this filter several times. I then change the filter to a 3 micron spin on and again let it cycle and then pump into truck. The reason for cycling is the more passes the closer you will get to stated rating of the filter, multiple passes will get you near 100% of the filter rating. The reason for one filter at a time is simply flow. At first I had three in line, and in theory this seemed like a great idea, I had a bowl filter, spin on 10 micron waterblock, and standard 10 micron filter that I let cycle before I would pump through 3 micron into truck. The reality though is when I had more than one and had any kind of resistance in the filters I would get no flow (the 2 horse team is much stronger than 2 individual horses effect). Good luck and stay clean. Also, try to stay off the bottom, and if you let the oil sit you will save on your filters.
do you have any pictures of your set up? What part number is your 3 micron filter? i am thinking about re doing my used motor oil set-up i have in the truck. i wanted my system all onboard. i filter through a 25 micron, then it goes to my pump and then goes through a 10 micron. My plan is to add a heatexchanger to warm up the WMO before it gets to my filters then it gets pumped directly into my tank. i have gauges on my filters and i notice a huge difference between when its hot oil and cold. my 5 micron filters are small, so i am going to need 2 of them hooked up in parallel.
__________________
Tom
Its not what you buy, its what you build.
Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
I never had so much fun going so slow.
1972 M35A2 W/W
1968 M109A3 W/O W
M105A2
M200A1
1984 Libby MEP-002A
1940 Ford Pickup Street Rod
1923 Ford T-Bucket
2000 Jeep Cherokee with 6.5' Western Unimount
2003 Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom (deer slayer)
do you have any pictures of your set up? What part number is your 3 micron filter? i am thinking about re doing my used motor oil set-up i have in the truck. i wanted my system all onboard. i filter through a 25 micron, then it goes to my pump and then goes through a 10 micron. My plan is to add a heatexchanger to warm up the WMO before it gets to my filters then it gets pumped directly into my tank. i have gauges on my filters and i notice a huge difference between when its hot oil and cold. my 5 micron filters are small, so i am going to need 2 of them hooked up in parallel.
I see you have zinga so this should be easy for you to get; my 3 micron is an AE-3, i believe, it is the generic that I get from the hydraulic shop where I order them. They use zinga as a rule, yet the 3 comes only to them as the generic.
As for pictures, I do not and it is not a thing of beauty, but it works. I simply have 3/4" ID tubing connecting the pump to the filter housing and more tubing on the out put side. I do like your setup it is nice and neat looking and your idea for a heat exchanger is great. And now the but. I would never want that on my truck. My truck burns clean and unless you open the tank you would never know it is burning oil as fuel. If the wrong officer of the law sees your fine set up, you may get the biggest fine of your life not to mention they will have your number for checking your tanks in the future. I know this may sound doomsdayish, it is just that this is supposed to be fun with cheap fuel and I would hate for anyone to get busted simply because they did not know and I could have prevented their headache.
Here's a link to a related thread, especiallyfor those of you that are interested in onboard fuel processing systems. Not any sort of expert in this area, just trying to figure it out as I get into it.
I filter my wmo and wvo down to 1/2 micron before it goes into a seperate 90 gallon heated tank from golden fuel in the bed of the m-35. The tank is equiped with a Racor 1000 fuel filter/water seperator ( 2 micron) and a seperate heated feed line to a switching solonoid valve then directly into the Injection pump. To process the wvo and wmo I have a 55 gallon drum with a 6" hole cut into the top in which i hang a series of 10 than 1 and another 1 and finally 1/2 micron filter bags. Filter source is the best place to buy them under 2 bucks apeice. Since it is winter here i heat my wvo and wmo before i pour into the filter bag assembly. I use a steel 55 gallon drum with a good welded lid and tight hinged opening to shut off air flow to top if needed. And a a valve port near the bottom. It is up on blocks with a wood fire underneath. ( not the safest set-up, but it is in an open snow covered field. And the wood is a free heat source. I have processed 500 gallons this way with no problems yet. ) Once i have my filter bag drum full and while it is still warm, I use a second 12v powered transfer pump with a Racor 1000 filter/water seperator to pump into a IBC container for storage or into the golden tank. I usually get 800 miles to filter change at the golden tank. Racor filters only cost 8 bucks at carquest. Haven't needed to change stock deuce fuel filters yet.
The Following User Says Thank You to bill2444 For This Useful Post:
Filtering wmo with 2 x oil filters
