spin on inline oil filter guys: where did you find one?
I'm trying to assemble my WMO recovery/processing kit and I have everything together except for a filter for my pump. I've found one online that is exactly what I want, but its about 150$ more than I think its worth:
I want a spin on filter (with a common, easily available filter) inline with my pump. I KNOW several people here have one, where did you get it?
Also for the people about to call me cheap or to search: I don't have time to let it gravity filter through a pair of old pants or some coffee filters. Googling by-pass filter or remote filter brings back mostly people asking how to get rid of oil after changing it or enormous filters for semi trucks. As usual the search function on this site brings back minimal relevant results.
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1984 M35A2C w/w on 6 Michelin 395 XMLs
I believe tractor supply sells spin on filters and filter mounts
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"Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting “Holy sh**, what a ride!”
Dad, that quote is 100% you, rest in peace Marine.
But it's a fuel filter. Don't know how it would handle WMO.
Oops sorry, guess I really didn't think bout that part before i posted..
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"Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting “Holy sh**, what a ride!”
Dad, that quote is 100% you, rest in peace Marine.
I've been playing with filtering "fuel" for a couple years now, I will throw my 2 cents in. Yes you should thin your oil with gas or something thin to help it flow through the filters easier. Yes it makes it go quicker. Yes 100% wmo will flow through a fuel filter. No, pumping through two filters is not better. I once thought it was, but after filtering a LOT of fuel, it does not. There is one exception, that is if you use two different filter ratings. This is just what I have found, if you feel some other way is better, great.
Fill tank. When that's full start filling the next, Repeat that last step, and again.
Now the first one has sat for awhile. Turn the pump on and tranfer and filter to a clean tank. I run around 10 GPM, 3 stage filter setup. I have a 100 mesh screen on the end of what I drop in the tank. First filter is 50 micron, second 30 micron, third 10 micron. Each filter is a spin-on and costs me $3. I can normally filter about 500 gallons before changing out. This is mostly due to the time of allowing things to settle in the tank. The pump is a Redline. My total cost for everything a few years ago was around $150. It has long ago paid for itself having done somewhere around 10K gallons of filtering.
I use everything that will burn, and get it free. If I have a lot of gear oil, etc. I cut it down with gasoline that I get from a scrap yard. Though for a lot of the work trucks during the summer months they run 100% oil, whatever the oil might be.
For a decent American made pump google Redline pumps. You can buy them ready to go, or just buy the pump and put the rest together yourself.
Tractor Supply is a good resource for this. I got my setup there. They have both spin-on can and bowl filter housings ($30 for housing and filter). They also have small and large waterblock cans, standard cans, waterblock bowl elements, and standard bowl elements (all are 10 micron rated fuel filters). To do finer filtering I also get 3 micron filters through a local hydraulics shop that get me zinga's generic "AE-03" filter. To hook up to the housing bodies I got plastic plumbing adapters (I believe they are 1" thread to a 3/4" hose) along with hose and 1/6hp submersible water pump at Menards. It is not anything fancy, but it works.
Last edited by war on heating costs; 03-03-2011 at 08:55.