Ok so i have been searching for pictures of home made bio diesel processor because i want to make my own processor because im still in college and don't have 4grand to spend on a new one so if any one has a home made system post some pictures so we can all get some great ideas how to make or improve reactors thanks Bryan
dude, keep drinking. i made my own WMO filter set up and almost blew up a 55 gallon drum. hahaha
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Tom
Its not what you buy, its what you build.
Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
I never had so much fun going so slow.
1972 M35A2 W/W
1968 M109A3 W/O W
M105A2
M200A1
1984 Libby MEP-002A
1940 Ford Pickup Street Rod
1923 Ford T-Bucket
2000 Jeep Cherokee with 6.5' Western Unimount
2003 Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom (deer slayer)
Having made biodiesel a few times I can tell you look on ebay for conical bottom tanks. I bought 3 for 250$. You will need a heated barrel for settling out water also. A black barrel in the sun is fine but better to have a water heater element in it or still better a strap on drum heater. Being so far north you might consider insulating well also. You will need 2 pumps and multiple valves, for feed in and out. One pump should be just for waste oil in and the other should be for de-watered waste oil and circulating, eventually you could remove the finished biodiesel with it also. You will need a methanol/lye in reactor also. Sorry I don't have any pictures. the best thing to do if you are serious is to buy "from the fryer to the fuel tank" This is one of the best books out there on the subject, and yes they have pictures and diagrams. Making biodiesel isn't rocket science but it isn't easy either, it's messy and expensive to get started. Having said that you may want to look at blending centrifuged WVO with diesel. You shouldn't run a newer direct injection diesel from blended fuel but older indirect injection diesels run great on it. I have may years in a Benz 300sd and now in my Blazer. You still have to dewater and there is the cost of the centrifuge but it's loads easier and no caustic chemicals or expensive Methanol to buy.
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M109(Metal of Honor) and M1009 m35a2 (Metal of Valor) m35a3
The name Stampy was given to my first CJ5 by a friend after I got "stuck " in a thicket of small trees on my property . I wasn't stuck for long and the trees did not survive the ordeal.
Sticks and stones may break my bones but hollow points expand on impact.
crap is gonna hit the fan, thats half the fun of this hobby!! its all fun and games unti somebody gets knocked down, knocked out or knocked up!
__________________
Tom
Its not what you buy, its what you build.
Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
I never had so much fun going so slow.
1972 M35A2 W/W
1968 M109A3 W/O W
M105A2
M200A1
1984 Libby MEP-002A
1940 Ford Pickup Street Rod
1923 Ford T-Bucket
2000 Jeep Cherokee with 6.5' Western Unimount
2003 Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom (deer slayer)
I'll sell you mine for a good price, I'm about 50 miles SE of you. I used it one year to make bio for my oil burning furnace but have since switched over to firewood, which I have lots of. I don't have much time to make bio since I'm trying to restore a 66' M109, 67' MGB and learn to weld at the same time. Its an Appleseed kit processor with a then-new 50 gallon hot water heater. PM me if you want to check it out.
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66' Kaiser Jeep M109A3
67' Atlantis Electronics Corp M105A2
88' AMA Enterprises M101A2
thanks for the info but im looking to see if there are any home made ones around i have barrels and i can get pumps i just want to see how other people set there systems up
Having made biodiesel a few times I can tell you look on ebay for conical bottom tanks. I bought 3 for 250$. You will need a heated barrel for settling out water also. A black barrel in the sun is fine but better to have a water heater element in it or still better a strap on drum heater. Being so far north you might consider insulating well also. You will need 2 pumps and multiple valves, for feed in and out. One pump should be just for waste oil in and the other should be for de-watered waste oil and circulating, eventually you could remove the finished biodiesel with it also. You will need a methanol/lye in reactor also. Sorry I don't have any pictures. the best thing to do if you are serious is to buy "from the fryer to the fuel tank" This is one of the best books out there on the subject, and yes they have pictures and diagrams. Making biodiesel isn't rocket science but it isn't easy either, it's messy and expensive to get started. Having said that you may want to look at blending centrifuged WVO with diesel. You shouldn't run a newer direct injection diesel from blended fuel but older indirect injection diesels run great on it. I have may years in a Benz 300sd and now in my Blazer. You still have to dewater and there is the cost of the centrifuge but it's loads easier and no caustic chemicals or expensive Methanol to buy.
how does the centrifuge work i have not read up on them but i know how to make it from wvo i have made small batches usually a gallon or two oh and im running it in a 1989 f-250 so im not worried about the newer direct injected engine i do want to know if the 1994 to 1998 7.3s can run on bio or wvo
conical bottom tanks would be real nice with my WMO set up also. i always think of all the crud that must be on the bottom of that tank and wonder if it could be all drained out. i'd like to see pictures of these set ups! maybe it will give me new ideas to fine tune my WMO system
__________________
Tom
Its not what you buy, its what you build.
Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
I never had so much fun going so slow.
1972 M35A2 W/W
1968 M109A3 W/O W
M105A2
M200A1
1984 Libby MEP-002A
1940 Ford Pickup Street Rod
1923 Ford T-Bucket
2000 Jeep Cherokee with 6.5' Western Unimount
2003 Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom (deer slayer)
the offical biodiesel reactor post
