Hello. I am fairly new to the WVO/WMO as the use for fuel. I have read some threads and have an idea of how I'd like to proceed. Please chime in with your thoughts, ideas. I plan on running a separate tank on my Deuce for use with WVO. I plan on adding some sort of heat sink or someday of heating that tank off of the Hester hoses for the Deuce engine. I have not seen anyone do this. I'm sure they have? I also have an Espar diesel fired engine coolant furnace that I was considering adding to the Deuce. With this I could preheat the tank and the engine before I ever fire up the Deuce. I would run the fuel supply for the coolant furnace off the Deuce diesel tank. I thought I could maybe even route the supply, return lines with the heated coolant lines to help with keeping everything heated. Do I have a workable idea? I haven't seen anything like I am considering. I have sent some PM's out to get some info but have got no responses so far. Thanks Jim
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1964 JF M105A2 on 395's
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The heater will definitely get you up and running faster but you might run the risk of burning your oil which could lead to varnish or polymerization. Not familiar with the heaters or a Deuce but if possible you could heat the truck with the heater then shut it down.
Many people run lines off their engine coolant lines to heat veg. Splice in directly at the point where the coolant leaves the engine and run lines back to your tank. I would highly recommend this order seeing how you live in MD where it can get quite cold..... Engine-flat plate heat exchanger-heated filter-run along your fuel lines-tank.
They have some pretty cool stuff for heating truck fuel tanks/ fuel lines. Not sure if it helps but it might give you some ideas toward your goal
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If you mix WMO/WVO with diesel (in the summer) you will not need to heat it.
In cold weather you can run WMO mixed with diesel and a little gasoline and not need to heat it.
As you run down the road warm fuel will go back into the fuel tank through the return line......on a long trip the fuel will get warm but it will be getting smaller in volume as the fuel is consumed.
It is not hard to construct a heat exchanger that will work off the coolant.
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Using an engine coolant heater is not all bad, thought of that, actually, but there are potential problems... The coolant heater must be positioned below the tank for proper operation and it may run down the starting batteries unless you install a separate set of "house batteries".
I sectioned off about 1/4 of the deuce tank by sealing one of the baffles to use for 100% diesel. Starting on diesel and switching to WVO/BIO when the temp reaches 125°F or so doesn't take long. On a sunny day, the fuel temp is that warm without any heating at all.
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The Following User Says Thank You to cranetruck For This Useful Post:
The heater will definitely get you up and running faster but you might run the risk of burning your oil which could lead to varnish or polymerization. Not familiar with the heaters or a Deuce but if possible you could heat the truck with the heater then shut it down.
Many people run lines off their engine coolant lines to heat veg. Splice in directly at the point where the coolant leaves the engine and run lines back to your tank. I would highly recommend this order seeing how you live in MD where it can get quite cold..... Engine-flat plate heat exchanger-heated filter-run along your fuel lines-tank.
This coolant heater I have I am not sure of its exact temp its been a while since I've looked at the specs. I am pretty certain it is the same as the normal vehicles operating temp. It would seem to me this would be safer to the oil than the HWH elements in tanks and drums? The furnace if I choose to use it would only run until the truck takes over. Thanks Jim
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I'm a Deuce bag...LOL "Don't RAM it...STROKE it"
08 Roush 427R Mustang
09 VRSC FX HD Night Rod Muscle
1971 M35A2C HT W/W Electric wipers, 395's on HEMTT wheels, snorkel, LED's, Rebuilt, shaved, Ouversonized, front axle with OEM 2", gun drilled, 47 spline shafts, ultra locker, Violater U joints, ARP studs, main cap girdle, lockout hubs
1964 JF M105A2 on 395's
My Build http://www.steelsoldiers.com/members...rst-deuce.html
There arent any issues with mixing WVO and Diesel in the same tank? I was on a Ford super Duty site some years ago due to my 7.3 PSD van and I had read that mixing WVO and Dieisel created some sort of chemical reaction that made a parafin build up that could cripple a vehicles entire fuel system. If mixing the two isnt an issue then I wouldnt need a seperate pre heated tank just for WVO. Another question I have is I guess I need seperate collection/storage vessels for WMO/WVO because it isnt a good idea to mix them together? Sure would make life easier if they could be stored together. Here is my collection/storage tank. It has a 5500W 220 HWH element I plan to run on 110. I also welded in a fitting for the ball valve. Thanks Jim
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I'm a Deuce bag...LOL "Don't RAM it...STROKE it"
08 Roush 427R Mustang
09 VRSC FX HD Night Rod Muscle
1971 M35A2C HT W/W Electric wipers, 395's on HEMTT wheels, snorkel, LED's, Rebuilt, shaved, Ouversonized, front axle with OEM 2", gun drilled, 47 spline shafts, ultra locker, Violater U joints, ARP studs, main cap girdle, lockout hubs
1964 JF M105A2 on 395's
My Build http://www.steelsoldiers.com/members...rst-deuce.html
Ive started a test on waste oils to see what if anything happens. I have 4 quart Mason jars with mixes of 1/2 WMO / 1/2 WVO, 1/2 WMO / 1/2 Diesel, 1/2 WVO / 1/2 Diesel, 1/3 WMO / 1/3 WVO / 1/3 Diesel. I also mixed some antifreeze with WMO to see if it settled out. All of this was filtered to 1 micron before put into the mason jars. Thanks Jim
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I'm a Deuce bag...LOL "Don't RAM it...STROKE it"
08 Roush 427R Mustang
09 VRSC FX HD Night Rod Muscle
1971 M35A2C HT W/W Electric wipers, 395's on HEMTT wheels, snorkel, LED's, Rebuilt, shaved, Ouversonized, front axle with OEM 2", gun drilled, 47 spline shafts, ultra locker, Violater U joints, ARP studs, main cap girdle, lockout hubs
1964 JF M105A2 on 395's
My Build http://www.steelsoldiers.com/members...rst-deuce.html
Ive started a test on waste oils to see what if anything happens. I have 4 quart Mason jars with mixes of 1/2 WMO / 1/2 WVO, 1/2 WMO / 1/2 Diesel, 1/2 WVO / 1/2 Diesel, 1/3 WMO / 1/3 WVO / 1/3 Diesel. I also mixed some antifreeze with WMO to see if it settled out. All of this was filtered to 1 micron before put into the mason jars. Thanks Jim
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If you mix WMO/WVO with diesel (in the summer) you will not need to heat it.
In cold weather you can run WMO mixed with diesel and a little gasoline and not need to heat it.
As you run down the road warm fuel will go back into the fuel tank through the return line......on a long trip the fuel will get warm but it will be getting smaller in volume as the fuel is consumed.
It is not hard to construct a heat exchanger that will work off the coolant.
It can sometimes be dantgerous to add gasoline to thin out diesel for the winter. Mercedes had specific instructions for use of diesel in the 50s, and in their oinstructions they said never use more than 5% ytotal volume and NEVER use premium, because the premium gas included additive which contained vanadium, and which were used to "scrub" combustion chambers in the gas engines, and be expelled unburnt. However, apparently the higher temps in the diesels caused the vanadium to stick to rings and cause galling and sticking rings, which were not good.
Right now, there are many commercial products you can add to keep diesel from clouding in the winter, which is a sign of parafin starting to congeal. A quick and dirty way to solve this is to add a SMALL amount of turpentine, about one teaspoon per gallon equivalent and NEVER more than a pint.
Turpentine raises the cetane rating of the diesel fuel, but you don't want too much. Once the cetane rating gets over 52 it may cause some premature ignition and or possible (i said possible) damage in pre-combustion chambers.
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