Stacking filter bags - Page 2 - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite

POWERSTROKEN · 11-02-2011, 05:57

I have 7" bags stacked 6 at a time and suspend them in a round heat duct tube I got from Home Depot. I placed screws down inside the top about 2 1/2" to support the bags and I have it stuffed into a large funnel at the bottom. I have this setup duplicated and the first set of bags are 100 to 1 micron, then the filtered oil goes through 6, 1 micron bags then into the Deuce. I am only doing small batches at the moment also. Jim

JOEDEUCE · 11-20-2011, 22:31

I just started filtering used oil myself, I'm using 10, 5, 1, and .5 micron filter bags. The filtered and thinned oil is poured into a poly 55 gallon drum where any remaining sediment can be allowed to settle. The fuel in the poly barrel has a pump with a pickup tube shorted so it doesn't pick up sediment off the bottom of barrel. The fuel then gets pumped into a 10 gallon barrel fitted with a filter/water seperator and a ball valve which I use to fill the tank on the deuce. What do y'all think, does that sound sufficient?

obee1kubota · 11-20-2011, 23:11

What is your impression of the Stainless steel washable canister filters? Spendy to start $75-$95 for the filter $75 for the canister but you would never have to buy another filter. Works with gravity, air pressure or pump.

oddshot · 11-23-2011, 12:52

Nube WMO filter Mk. II

My 5hp engine and gear head pump has worked out very well, but I was looking for a more compact filtering unit and wanted to use the cheaper filter socks in place of the expensive spin-ons. So I needed to come up with a filter-sock housing.

I used an old fire extinguisher to make the housing. I cut the bottom off, made a flange out of ½ steel and welded it to the extinguisher. Then I made a top flange from a bit of 5/16 scrap. I drilled a hole in the center to fit a 1” to ¾” pipe adapter and welded it in.

I stack three filter socks (I go down to 5 microns), pop in the 4” adapter head … slip all of that into a filter basket that I made from a piece of 4” PVC pipe (with a LOT of holes drilled in it), and a 4” PVC coupling. The adapter head threads onto a 1” nipple which in turn threads into the top flange. Then the whole thing slides into the fire extinguisher with a gasket and I bolt on the top flange using 5/16” hardware.

The intake side is on the top, the discharge is on the bottom. Shut- offs on the intake and discharge prevents drips and spills when I’m done filtering. The gauge on the intake side gives me a pretty good idea of what’s going on with the filter. The stand was just some stuff I had in the shed.

After the oil stock has been heated to about 150F using a water heater element, I let it sit a couple days to settle the water and crud out. Then I heat it back up and filter it. With temps at 120 to 150 the oil stock goes through the filter socks with no trouble … I only show about 5 to 10 PSI on the gauge. A water heater element only takes a couple hours to get the oil up to temp.

I pump it into my storage tank, let it cool, and then check the viscosity and specific gravity. I then thin it with gasoline to the range I found that the truck runs best on.

I've done a couple hundred gallons with this set up and it seems to work pretty well ... No runs , no drips, no errors.

Although a lot of folks use a 85 to 15 % mix, since I am running on whatever garage waste oil I can get, I have found that there is more performance and MPG's to be gotten if each batch of waste oil is addressed individually and blended closer to the specific gravity and viscosity of diesel. Some batches require more gasoline, others require less. Because the auto-ignition and BTU content of the WMO is so much higher than diesel, I see no need to use Diesel as a thinning agent.

I’m over 9 MPG and headed to 10. With a couple more tricks, and a little balloon footin’ on the throttle, I think I can get over 12MPG on a waste oil blend.

DeucesWild11 · 12-19-2011, 14:30

I am going to start to set up my filtration system soon and will take pics of the whole system. I am going to use the Pail filters from DudaDiesel and stack into the 5 gallon pail as follows 600 - 400- 200- 100- 75 micron. Then cut the bottom out of the pail and mount the pail into the top of the 55 gallon drum. Then out of the drum with a hand crank barrel pump into a 15 micron water separator canister filter then into a 10 mic canister filter and then into a 5 micron bag filter which will hang into the fuel tank or other storage tank. The fuel filters in the trucks don't go any lower than 6 micron so I don't see the point in going less than 5 micron. Will post some pics when I build it.
Brian

joshs1ofakindxj · 12-20-2011, 08:55

That hand crank pump will get old after awhile.

My harbor freight one works, but I run out of steam after a half hour of pumping.

I took the electric motor off the bandsaw I never use, and found a shaft driven twin screw oil pump off some random piece of equipment. Now I just need a sheeve made for the oil pump and I'll have a belt driven oil pump off an electric motor for moving oil around the shop.

POWERSTROKEN · 01-11-2012, 15:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by oddshot

Nube WMO filter Mk. II

My 5hp engine and gear head pump has worked out very well, but I was looking for a more compact filtering unit and wanted to use the cheaper filter socks in place of the expensive spin-ons. So I needed to come up with a filter-sock housing.

I used an old fire extinguisher to make the housing. I cut the bottom off, made a flange out of ½ steel and welded it to the extinguisher. Then I made a top flange from a bit of 5/16 scrap. I drilled a hole in the center to fit a 1” to ¾” pipe adapter and welded it in.

I stack three filter socks (I go down to 5 microns), pop in the 4” adapter head … slip all of that into a filter basket that I made from a piece of 4” PVC pipe (with a LOT of holes drilled in it), and a 4” PVC coupling. The adapter head threads onto a 1” nipple which in turn threads into the top flange. Then the whole thing slides into the fire extinguisher with a gasket and I bolt on the top flange using 5/16” hardware.

The intake side is on the top, the discharge is on the bottom. Shut- offs on the intake and discharge prevents drips and spills when I’m done filtering. The gauge on the intake side gives me a pretty good idea of what’s going on with the filter. The stand was just some stuff I had in the shed.

After the oil stock has been heated to about 150F using a water heater element, I let it sit a couple days to settle the water and crud out. Then I heat it back up and filter it. With temps at 120 to 150 the oil stock goes through the filter socks with no trouble … I only show about 5 to 10 PSI on the gauge. A water heater element only takes a couple hours to get the oil up to temp.

I pump it into my storage tank, let it cool, and then check the viscosity and specific gravity. I then thin it with gasoline to the range I found that the truck runs best on.

I've done a couple hundred gallons with this set up and it seems to work pretty well ... No runs , no drips, no errors.

Although a lot of folks use a 85 to 15 % mix, since I am running on whatever garage waste oil I can get, I have found that there is more performance and MPG's to be gotten if each batch of waste oil is addressed individually and blended closer to the specific gravity and viscosity of diesel. Some batches require more gasoline, others require less. Because the auto-ignition and BTU content of the WMO is so much higher than diesel, I see no need to use Diesel as a thinning agent.

I’m over 9 MPG and headed to 10. With a couple more tricks, and a little balloon footin’ on the throttle, I think I can get over 12MPG on a waste oil blend.

Would you use a hydrometer for that? Do you think that's the best way of doing it? Although I have no put a lot of miles on my Deuce as far as mixing goes. I have just been winging it (with good results so far...lol) Thanks, Jim

oddshot · 01-11-2012, 15:59

There are two tools I use.

A hydrometer, of the proper range, measures specific gravity.

A Ford Cup (or other) Viscometer measures viscosity.

The Ford Cup is a very simple device … it’s a cup that holds a specific amount of a liquid … there is a hole in the bottom of the cup that can be opened or closed. You pour in the liquid and then open the hole. You measure the amount of time that it takes the liquid to drain completely from the cup at a specific temperature.

You compare the time measurements of Straight Diesel, a blend you know that works, and your raw WMO fuel stock … then adjust your stock until it flows at the rate of either straight diesel … OR the fuel blend that you know works well in your truck.

In truth … I do believe that all you really need is the Ford Cup … this is a very inexpensive and easy to use device. It’s also VERY old. Vehicle operators in the earliest days of motoring would be VERY handy in the use of this tool.

Remember … there is MORE BTU’s of energy in WMO then there is diesel. Using the measurement of viscosity or specific gravity to adjust your WMO stocks … you should be able to get as much … if not more … mileage and power from WMO then you do straight diesel. Right now I am averaging about 10.5 MPG's with my blend.

If you combine a “crackle test” to check for water in your stocks (do a search!) … you will have a fuel that is perfectly safe as well.

BTW … I have found that there are other websites where people are doing very good research in learning to work with WMO as fuel for diesel engines.

You might consider going to either:

Bio-Diesel and Alternative Fuels - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com

Alternative Fuels. SVO, Bio-Disel, and WMO. - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

oddshot

mobileauto2000 · 01-11-2012, 16:50

Keep it simple, Drain oil out of car. Pour oil through five micron sock filter hung over five gallon bucket. Fifteen minuets later dump five gallon bucket into Deuce fuel tank and enjoy.

If I collect large amounts of oil from a unknown source that may have water in it. I filter it the same way but then put it in a 55 gal. drum and let it settle. Then I pump it through a water blocker filter and into the truck. If the oil clearly has water in it I let it settle in 5 gal. buckets that have a small screw in the side right at the bottom. after a few hours in the sun I loosen the screw but do not remove it. the water will trickle out but the flow will stop when it gets to the oil. Then through the filter and into the 55 gal.drum.

If the oil has emulsified water in it I let the recyclers at the dump have it, although I have been known to boil it off over a hot plate in a big pot. Depends on how board I am at the time.

I have found no need to use 20 or 10 micron filters as I can process Hundreds of gallons through a Five micron filter.

My truck runs on 100% Used oil of all kinds with no mixing or blending. The Deuce is my only transportation. (If you live where it gets cold you may have to blend in the winter)

I also started off complicated with pumps and filters but found it was overkill. I almost never use the pump and water blocker filter.

I should also mention I run 6 micron secondary filters and have to change them about every 3000 miles. I can live with that.

One last thing. Get what ever License or permit required by you state for alternative fuel. I only pay around 25 dollar a quarter to the great state of Oregon in fuel tax. If you get your tanks dipped you will surely lose all that you have saved and then some.

POWERSTROKEN · 01-11-2012, 19:23

Right now I am mixing both WMO and WVO in no set formula I have a main filter sock of pretty large micron (I don't remember) that I run everything through first to save my stacked filter setup's life span. Then I run the mix through 6 stacked bags 50 down to 5 micron, then through 5, 1 micron bags and into the Deuce tank. I only do 5 gallons at a time so far. I have had no issues yet. Jim