Clutch Issues

Throw-out bearing went. I got a new clutch disc, pressure plate, thow-out bearing and pilot bearing from good source. Got it all back together...No clutch. Grinds when I attempt to put in gear-any gear.

Adjusted the clutch all the way out and I can start truck in gear with clutch pedal to floor and the truck does not jump forward. But when I attempt to change gears, it grinds.

I can see the throwout bearing move forward and engage the fingers of the pressure plate.

Pulled the transmission, left the clutch parts installed. I then installed a spare transmission input shaft. With clutch adjusted all the way out I can barely spin the shaft and pressure plate by hand.

Pulled clutch plate, pressure plate, and throwout bearing and compared to original parts. The OLD throwout bearing collar is about 1/4 inch SHORTER than the new one. I carefully reassembled the new disc, new pressure plate and new throwout bearing. Using the spare input shaft I can freely spin the disc until I start tightening the pressure plate bolts.

It's all back together and the same thing: With the clutch adjusted all the way out I can barely spin the disc by hand with the spare input shaft.

I'd reinstall the old pressure plate but the fingers are worn badly due to the thowout bearing disintegrating.

Any thoughts or ideas?

Please see my response on the M715Zone...

You didnt uuse a civy clutch setup did you ? There different ......

Clutch and pressure plate could be stuck together. Pop start, push in clutch, hit brakes. I had that happen one time on a new clutch install. Or, put in gear, foot on brake, clutch pushed in...hit starter. You may get lucky and have it break free then IF this is the issue.

dumb question, Clutch plate is installed the correct way right?

Please let us know how it goes...

I looked a the clutch disc, while not impossible to install wrong, it would be quite difficult based on the flywheel and the clutch disc dimensions and the clutch disc springs.

I replaced the "new" pressure plate and disc with the "old" pressure plate and disc using "new" throwout bearing. Works perfect. With the clutch pedal adjusted for 1 inch free travel, I can push in the clutch pedal and then easily spin the disc using the spare transmission input shaft that I use as an alignment tool.

Replaced the "old" pressue plate with the "new" one. Same old story. I have to adjust the clutch all the way out and then I can barely spin the disc with the clutch to the floor.

I just ordered a pressure plate from Memphis equipment. Ouch!!

hondo100 said:

I looked a the clutch disc, while not impossible to install wrong, it would be quite difficult based on the flywheel and the clutch disc dimensions and the clutch disc springs.

I replaced the "new" pressure plate and disc with the "old" pressure plate and disc using "new" throwout bearing. Works perfect. With the clutch pedal adjusted for 1 inch free travel, I can push in the clutch pedal and then easily spin the disc using the spare transmission input shaft that I use as an alignment tool.

Replaced the "old" pressue plate with the "new" one. Same old story. I have to adjust the clutch all the way out and then I can barely spin the disc with the clutch to the floor.

I just ordered a pressure plate from Memphis equipment. Ouch!!

Click to expand...

Sorry that the "new" stuff is not correct but at least, you have the situation under control. I have a new flywheel, pressure plate and two discs in the spare dept. Hope I never need them. Mine came from AB Linn. Hope they are OK...

Success

Turns out I had a bad/wrong pressure plate. I got a reman one from Memphis Equipment and everything went back together smooth today and the clutch works perfectly. I bought the "troublesome" pressure plate along with a disc and throwout bearing almost a year ago off of Ebay, so I don't hold much chance of a refund.


Thanks to everyone for the comments, suggestions, and help.

should have called me i have a bunch of reman pressure plates and kevlar linned clutch disc,s very reasonable.
bob

Clutch

I wanted to get theis together and be done with it. If I order from Memphis, I get it the next day using UPS ground.

I'll be wanting to get a spare so I'll be in touch when the budget recovers in a couple of weeks.

Do you have a stainless replacement oil line for the back of the block/head?

hondo100 said:

...

Do you have a stainless replacement oil line for the back of the block/head?

Click to expand...

Wait for Bob's response but you can replace the flexible rubber hose with rigid steel tubing. It doesn't have to be flexible or have numerous bends because it is short and connects from one part on the engine to another point on the engine. The engine can flex and vibrate but the tubing will not. The only time you really need flexibility is when it goes from the engine to the frame or something like that.

I have about anything for a m715 except sheet metal. Best to call me
bob
1-423-384-8938