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Old 04-12-2011, 17:40   #11 (permalink)
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I just looked in the other thread about this that I put the picture of the drive washer. There is a little bump on one side of the washer so that when it is installed into the face gear it fits one way. So the driver washer can only go in ONE WAY, this will avoid the internal mismatched timing you were talking about, even if you flip the washer over (like flipping a pancake - ok) the hole in the middle will still have the flat oriented in the right spot. (Look at your hand held flat in front of you, then flip it over - the bump will prevent install in this way. But hold your hand flat out again in front of you and point your hand right then left, the hole will still be oriented in the same way.)

But this is all out the window if the washer is shattered. See pic in "MEP 002A not starting"
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Old 02-04-2012, 14:01   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treeguy View Post
Your over thinking the IP pump regarding the timing or IP out of time with itself ...
Story of my life.

So, after a long (and awful) 9 months, I have gotten back to work on the generator.

I took the IP off and disassembled it. Turned out to be easier than I thought. Ok, you guys were right.

The plunger guide (PN: GU8546) was broke. As mentioned, the plunger was stuck when I got it but I got it to free up. After that the motor would start ocassionally. Then, stop like the fuel was shut-off. I feel really good about all the timing work I did last year. I pulled the valve cover off and the pump is definitely timed to #1 PC on compression stroke. YaHoo!!

Now to find a plunger guide. Diamond Diesel in Oakland, CA wants $40 for one. He has a gasket kit for $48. If I didn't need the delivery valve spacer, I might forgo the kit. Maybe when I get the kit I will find O-ring that match and start selling the kits myself. That plunger guide should be a simple thing to make too, eh?

Soon, I too should have a sweet running little 002A

THANK YOU to all who have shared on this site. Couldn't have gotten this far without you.
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Old 02-04-2012, 14:40   #13 (permalink)
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would you have any pics or diagrams of the plunger guide ? I belieive this is the part I have broke in mine , but I can't seem to find a part #.
Thanks,
Joe
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Old 02-05-2012, 14:33   #14 (permalink)
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LuckyDog,

You can get Plunger Guides and other parts directly from AMBAC, and almost surely less expensively than anywhere else (but still not cheap). The manuals are on their website:

http://www.ambac.net/images/Diese_Fu...ction_Pump.pdf

http://www.ambac.net/images/9540A.pdf

Call 1-800-628-6894 and a very nice lady will take your order. It may help speed things along if you have looked up the part numbers before you call.

Any time the plunger sticks, you can expect the plunger guide to break. I believe treeguy was able to repair his by welding it back together, but my advice is to take the easy way out and buy a new one (about $15 + shipping). As well as I can remember, there are only a few o-rings and the delivery valve spacer that you might want to replace while you have it apart, but I was able to reuse the old ones without any problems.

Hope this helps,
Richard

Last edited by RichardR; 02-05-2012 at 14:37.
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Old 02-05-2012, 22:35   #15 (permalink)
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I have 2 IP's apart now for cleaning and see no signs of problems in them.

I Also have an 002a with a good IP on it that I can't get to fire with pop-tested injectors. Flywheel is so badly rusted I can't see PC marks, even after spraying with phosphoric acid. What are my options for timing if I can't see any marks?
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Old 02-06-2012, 00:15   #16 (permalink)
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Jerry,

As far as I know, the only way to time one of these engines is by reference to the PC mark on the flywheel, or the PC angle of rotation of the engine. If you cannot see the PC mark on the flywheel, you can find where the PC mark is supposed to be by following the procedure in Section 7-4 of TM 5-6115-584-34.

The procedure is not simple nor easy but, according to the manual, it's the only accurate way to do it. Basically, PC is the engine rotation point at which the #1 piston is 0.128 inches below (and rising toward) Top Dead Center. Not an easy measurement to make but the manual tells how to do it.

Hope this helps,
Richard
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Old 02-06-2012, 07:00   #17 (permalink)
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Thanks Richard. I'll dig into the manual. Was unaware of that alternative.
Jerry
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Four being parted out.

See classifieds for huge generator parts listing
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Old 02-06-2012, 11:13   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardR View Post
LuckyDog,

Call 1-800-628-6894 and a very nice lady will take your order. It may help speed things along if you have looked up the part numbers before you call.
She is a very nice lady.

Parts are on there way.
$15 for the plunger guide (GU8546)
$36 and change for the rebuild gasket kit (KT85166) [That is their $48.15 web price - 25%]

Just under $7 for UPS Ground shipping.

WaHOOOO
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Old 02-06-2012, 15:54   #19 (permalink)
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Thanks for sharing that info, Luckydog! That is very helpfull, I might just order those parts to have on hand.
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Old 02-06-2012, 17:26   #20 (permalink)
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LuckyDog,

Did the very nice lady at AMBAC tell you what parts are included in the KT85166 Rebuild Kit? As I mentioned above, I didn't replace anything except the broken plunger guide, although the o-rings and a few other bits probably ought to have been replaced per normal procedure. I just got lucky and was able to reuse the original parts.

But it would be good to know which parts AMBAC considers normal wear-out items that should be replaced at overhaul. I didn't even think to ask the nice lady whether they had a rebuild kit. And I cannot find the KT85166 kit contents listed on their website. If she didn't specify to you what the kit contains, would you please make a list for us when you receive the kit?

Thanks,
Richard
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