I bought some MEP002a gensets. Fortunately, I also bought some fresh rebuilt engines last year. First genset has the IP out of it. It came in a ziploc baggie.
I will also state...I have a manual printed out, but not sure what happened. The engine removal section didn't print. So...eyeballing the genset, I proceeded to do the engine removal. Looks to be very straightforward.
I can't get back to print another manual until next week. Any out of the ordinary things I need to watch for? I pretty much have it unbolted...almost ready to split it off tomorrow and reinstall new rebuild.
Guess I am just getting anxious... Thanks!!
Last edited by hedgehog69; 10-29-2011 at 21:10.
Reason: add photo
Use the threaded hole in the valve cover to lift the engine. Unbolt the generator from the flex plate first. Those are the bolts which rotate with the engine. Then remove the bolts securing the shell to the engine. There is a bolt on the cross member to support the engine side of the generator.
Only after the generator is secure should you remove the engine mounts. Up and away. About 400 pounds.
The worst part about that job is getting the bolts in the flex plate out and back in. Very tight quarters and it needs to be aligned perfectly for the bolts to go back in...not easy to do in such a tight space, even with the recommended alignment studs.
Other than that it is a very straight foreward job
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1970 M35A2 "The Stone Wagon"
MEP-003a 3000 hrs
MEP-003a 1500 hrs
MEP-002a & MEP-003a Spin-on oil filter kits are still 4 sale, PM me for details
Note to self......MARK THE HOLES ON THE FLYWHEEL BEFORE YOU SLAP IT BACK TOGETHER NEXT TIME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
After wasting several ours with the flywheel hole alignment...I got this unit back together. All new filters...Fuel filter cannisters were literally dry. Cranked the engine plenty with no fuel...just to make sure engine oil got up into everywhere it needed to go. There was enough fuel in the lines that it popped off a few times during this process. I then put in 2 gal. of fuel and switched the primer on.
Let it get good and primed....and hit the glowplugs... then the starter. Popped fairly quick...oil pressure guage showed great pressure. Pulled out the throttle cable...but not much movement on the Hz guage. Engine was doing a bit of surging,,,but hoping it might just be some air still in the lines.
Throttled it down...and watched Hz guage go up???? Confused. Shut it off....checked it over...and restarted. Engine still surging some. Throttled it up...this time Hz guage going up. I tried to flash it...but starter engaged??These have the new, smaller starter.
Also...fresh rebuilt engine....and the battery ampmeter still in the yellow. I guess it isn't impossible the VR fried on a fresh rebuild???
going to tinker further. All knowledge greatly appreciated!!
The starter cut-out should prevent starter from running above 900 RPM. This is easily adjusted but sometimes the leaf gets bent and you cannot get the proper cut-out. Just bend the leaf so the button which pushes the contacts open is closer to the leaf.
Frequency transducers and meters can go bad. Use a Kill-O-Watt basic model to measure actual frequency.
Never crank the engine without fuel in the injection pump. Fuel lubricates the piston and delivery valve. It also cools the pump. If you want to prime the oil system, removing the glow plugs will lessen the load on the engine. You should remove one lead from the fuel cut-off solenoid so the engine wont get fuel. If this was a fresh rebuild, it probably still has the assembly lube in it, this greatly helps.
mep002a engine swap going on
Thanks!!
