MEP recovery, repair, and first start procedure - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite

sewerzuk · 10-31-2011, 15:13

I have been buying and repairing MEP generators from Ft. Lewis now for a few years; I have a pretty standard method of checking one out and doing the first startup. Basically, I do a walkaround, noting any obvious missing parts, damaged components, melted wires, etc. I pull the intake manifold off to check for foreign objects. I'll usually try to tun the engine over by hand to find out if any of the cylinders have water or fuel in them (or rings/bearings rusted or seized). I make a list of what is needed, and procure those parts. Once everything that is missing has been replaced, I do a fuel and oil fluid and filter change. New batteries are next. Then I flush the fuel system to get anything out of the lines before it gets sent into the injection pump.
When I do the first start, I only crank it over for a second or two, and then go check for any leaks (oil and fuel). Then I'll go back and crank it until it starts (or for 15-20 seconds). Then is another check for leaks, oil level check, and injector line leak check. Once any leaks are taken care of, then I'll go ahead and fire it up. I pay close attention to oil pressure, and if it doesn't rise within a few seconds I'll shut the set back down to find out why. Once the generator is running, I'll walk around again and check for sparks, leaks, funny noises, etc. After that comes a warmup under no load, followed by a load test. During the load test, I check operation of gauges, meters, the engine's cooling system, overloads, etc (I have other videos of this procedure).
I have used this sequence of events on MEP-002's through MEP-006's with good success; I started pulling the intake manifolds off after a stray bolt (that somebody intentionally put in the intake manifold and then covered with an air cleaner) destroyed a really nice MEP-005a.
So...anybody have any suggestions for additions/procedure changes/etc.? What do you do when you recover a generator?

Made up a video of the last set that I got running; it is a MEP-004a. The video covers everything from the initial assessment, to parts replacement, to first start. I didn't edit anything out...at one point, I try to start the generator and fail due to a bad solenoid (which I repair in the video). It is a pretty typical recovery, although it started MUCH quicker than they usually do...starting literally on the first revolution is not something I'm used to

Military surplus generator repair, and first start after years of sitting

In the second video, I pull the generator outside and do a series of functional checks and tests that uncover several additional problems that I repair. At the end of the video, the generator is ready for its full load test...

Military surplus generator repair, and first start after years of sitting p

Isaac-1 · 10-31-2011, 16:01

I would add checking the battery charging voltage since there is not meter for this on many (most?) MEP generators only a charging amp meter. I say this because high/low output from the charging voltage regulator seems to be fairly commonly reported online (in fact I just discoved my MEP-701a has developed this problem, it was ouputting 31 volts and cooking the batteries).

Ike

steelandcanvas · 10-31-2011, 16:01

Seems to me you are very thorough.

sewerzuk · 10-31-2011, 17:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Isaac-1

I would add checking the battery charging voltage since there is not meter for this on many (most?) MEP generators only a charging amp meter. I say this because high/low output from the charging voltage regulator seems to be fairly commonly reported online (in fact I just discoved my MEP-701a has developed this problem, it was ouputting 31 volts and cooking the batteries).

Ike

Thanks; that's an easy one to add. I do typically check to make sure the charging current drops to near zero, but that certainly isn't fool proof. A voltmeter on the batteries is...

JAYHAWK 1962 · 10-31-2011, 18:41

Wish you were closer i got a few you can help with. Good information to have
thanks

Brandon314159 · 10-31-2011, 18:46

Check your liquids for mixing. Those rotary pumps love to dump fuel into the lubricating oil...coolant can mix with oil...Vice Versa.

We have probably competed for a gen set out of Ft. Lewis. I snagged the complete runner ~1.5 yr ago...picked it up late summer of 2010.

MEP-006.

Thanks for the quick guide!

SFGABN@5th · 10-31-2011, 18:50

Very well made video .

Kevin

ETN550 · 10-31-2011, 18:51

I'm new at the MEPs having just acquired two 3kw 016Bs I did the following.

Cleaned out the fuel tanks, (Plastic and big opening means wiped out by hand)
Cleaned out the fuel water separator and drained. (Lots of water in one of them)
Pulled the intake hose and looked in the intake,
Pulled the starter and turned it over by hand two complete revolutions,
Put in new oil and oil and fuel filters. Checked air filter
Cleaned screen on aux fuel pump and cleaned aux fuel pump plunger and check valves, (both were sticky)
Quick check inside the control box and quick check of harness,
Started un loaded and let warm up,
Run the aux pump on my 5 gal can and verify pump, tank switches, and controls operation.
Check over for leaks,
Run and load to 100%, in single phase modes and load as available in 3 phase modes.
Adjust voltage gage,
Adjust low idle for 55Hz (to avoid damage to voltage regulator)
Adjust high idle to 65 Hz,
Adjust max fuel to spec,
Adjust droop for 3Hz drop max with 100% load step. (One unit had a fubared gov linkage adjustment. Everything was out of whack and a spring was on backwards causing binding on the linkage)
Verfy charging voltage on batteries,
Cool down and repeat warm up and load test every few days. Keep fixing things that crop up until it can be run and loaded each time without problems. Replaced an injector tip, rebuilt injector body (black smoke puffs), installed new throttle cable, repaired frequency transducer, cleaned frame and paint with solvent, checked under one valve cover with noise, all was okay, put new connector on jumping shutdown solenoid.
Acquired manuals and printed out and made a binder of info.
Installed new batteries.

Good to go for use on a moments notice!

Isaac-1 · 10-31-2011, 19:18

One more, on radiator cooled diesel engines, check for potential blown head gasket by running for a few seconds when cold (30 or so not long enough to get warm/hot) then removing the radiator cap, if pressurized you have a leak.

Ike

sewerzuk · 10-31-2011, 22:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by ETN550

I'm new at the MEPs having just acquired two 3kw 016Bs I did the following.

Cleaned out the fuel tanks, (Plastic and big opening means wiped out by hand)
Cleaned out the fuel water separator and drained. (Lots of water in one of them)
Pulled the intake hose and looked in the intake,
Pulled the starter and turned it over by hand two complete revolutions,
Put in new oil and oil and fuel filters. Checked air filter
Cleaned screen on aux fuel pump and cleaned aux fuel pump plunger and check valves, (both were sticky)
Quick check inside the control box and quick check of harness,
Started un loaded and let warm up,
Run the aux pump on my 5 gal can and verify pump, tank switches, and controls operation.
Check over for leaks,
Run and load to 100%, in single phase modes and load as available in 3 phase modes.
Adjust voltage gage,
Adjust low idle for 55Hz (to avoid damage to voltage regulator)
Adjust high idle to 65 Hz,
Adjust max fuel to spec,
Adjust droop for 3Hz drop max with 100% load step. (One unit had a fubared gov linkage adjustment. Everything was out of whack and a spring was on backwards causing binding on the linkage)
Verfy charging voltage on batteries,
Cool down and repeat warm up and load test every few days. Keep fixing things that crop up until it can be run and loaded each time without problems. Replaced an injector tip, rebuilt injector body (black smoke puffs), installed new throttle cable, repaired frequency transducer, cleaned frame and paint with solvent, checked under one valve cover with noise, all was okay, put new connector on jumping shutdown solenoid.
Acquired manuals and printed out and made a binder of info.
Installed new batteries.

Good to go for use on a moments notice!

That's a pretty complete list!

I typically don't bother cleaning my fuel tanks; I'll look inside to make sure there is no water, but with the -004 and larger sets there is no easy way to get inside. So, I just drain the water trap and primary filter housings while I'm running the pumps with the fuel line removed...if I don't see anything suspicious, I figure it is ready for the load test.
After my load test, I do a complete fluid/filter change...figure 7-8 hours of runtime at full and over-load conditions is enough to shake loose scale, grime, etc inside of the crankcase, fuel tank, etc. Almost always, the filters look pretty clean. The radiator is one area that always seems to require multiple flushes to get all of the rust-color out of it. I usually run it with pure water for a couple of flushes, followed by an actual radiator flush, followed by some mre pure water flushes, followed by a final fill with 50/50 antifreeze.

There are lots of things that I notice, but probably don't actively look for...I'm planning on making a checklist for the inspection/startup/load test so I don't miss anything.