Hello everybody,hope everyones Thanksgiving went well.So I have a question maybe someone could help me out.
I start my 002a genset the first weekend every month and run it for a half an hour to make sure everything is working.Here's whats killing me.I start cranking it and it seems to want to fire right up-that's good.Without oil pressure the unit will not run.Waiting for it to get to the 20 psi minimum seems like an eternity and when it gets there the unit fires right up.So has anyone ever set their unit up with an auxillary pump to get the oil system pumped up prior to cranking it over?
Perhaps a pump could be tied into the oil cooler lines.From looking at the TM,I think the oil cooler drains back to the crankcase while it is sitting idle.So that would have to pumped up before you are able to attain operating pressure.
Any Idea's
Thanks, metalworker393
I have a brittish generator with a pre lube pump. It is a simple cheapish fuel / oil transfer pump. gets up to about 35psi. All my M seriese trucks have pre lube pumps. Although bigger like from fork truck or vehicle tailgate lifts. etc. I also use units off the walk behind stackers, electric buggies ,carts ,carriges etc. there a whole variety of suitable pumps avaliable from used sources, 12,24, 36,48 volt. and can be mounted dscreetly if required. Good luck with it keep us informed of your salution.
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Last edited by dmetalmiki; 12-06-2011 at 18:54.
Reason: missing quote.
its the nature of the beast. the oil preasure switch is adjustable. i think. i have thought about putting a toggle switch on to bypass the oil switch and then flip back, but if you forget you would no oil cutout. you could also use a momotary switch i guess so you wouldnt have to worry about accidently leave it bypassed. anyway i never did.
The oil cooler is thermostatically controlled. It shouldn't flow until oil temperature is above about 180 F. Check oil bypass valve and valve cover to make sure you don't have an internal leak in the oil system.
If you want a priming pump, it would be best to take oil from a tee installed between the drain valve and the sump, pressurize it and then route it via hose to the 1/8 NPT fitting on the oil filter housing. This will filter and pressurize the oil system safely.
Another great reason to keep the stock filtration system. A spin-on wouldn't allow this.
its the nature of the beast. the oil preasure switch is adjustable. i think. i have thought about putting a toggle switch on to bypass the oil switch and then flip back, but if you forget you would no oil cutout. you could also use a momotary switch i guess so you wouldnt have to worry about accidently leave it bypassed. anyway i never did.
Master switch pole 28 bypasses the low oil pressure and over-temperature switches. Since the starter cuts out above 900 RPM (when properly adjusted), there is no harm keeping master switch in the far right position until oil pressure rises above 15 PSI, the set point it 14 PSI.
The Hobbs pressure switch (M1423-14) is adjustable. But there are other interchangeable part numbers, at least one isn't. Honeywell bought out Hobbs and now an almost interchangeable part is M4008-15 which is commercially available.
Thanks for the responses guy's.I don't want to bypass any of the safety set points it's just cranking it for 15 seconds or so makes me cringe.Maybe a tee off the oil drain and get a small A frame or AA frame gear pump mount a 24 volt electric motor to it?How about that.
pre lube pump for 002 genset
