Just wanted to say Hello to all here and also say what great site with tons of information. Lots of great people here with a lot of knowledge.
The main reason I am here is to gain info on the new to me MEP 002a generator I purchased at auction from the KDOT. It came from the Salina KS airport authority and was marked "Engine runs, bad generator". I paid $225 for it and figured if nothing else I can part it out and get back my money.
Just picked it up yesterday and it is still in the truck, but on my first quick inspection, I haven't really noticed any major problems. No leaks, broken wires, crashed tin etc. Looks to be in pretty good shape. A win for me is that the fuel tank is full of nice new red diesel. I guess that helps with the initial purchase.
A few things I did notice:
The frequency gauge is pegged to the right side or on 65 hertz.
One of the hinges is broken on the air out let on the engine.
All of the filters are intact as well as the battery boxes, hold downs and cables.
The guy at the airport thought that it might need a new throttle cable, don't know yet.
If I can get it off the truck today and get some batteries in it, I might try to start it and flash the generator fields as per some of the posts I have read. I talking to a friend of mine at work who used to rebuild electric motors and generators, he told me that this is probably the problem.
I am a mechanic by trade and am familiar with diesel engines and auto electronics, so I should be able to fix or repair anything wrong with this unit. I just need some direction to save time and so I don't do anything to wreck an otherwise good unit.
Fantom, sounds like You are on the right track, and welcome to SS (steel soldiers)! You may find info in the TM`s (technical manuals) section for that unit.Flashing could be the cure, I havent worked on mil stuff myself , just civilian smaller gensets.
Someone here will have what You need, or the best lead you will get.
Have fun......Welcome , and Good Luck!
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I void warranties
You don`t own it if you cant take it apart
I was trapped in the Andes with my fellow teammates, I made it out ok.......
No need for flashing the field, this is done by the starter switch.
On the frequency meter, these can be pricey. Before buying a replacement, check the transducer first by pulling it (4 screw terminals, tag before disconnecting and 4-#6 machine screws+nuts) and using utility power on the input side, measuring output. If in the 100 microamp range, the transducer is good. The meter should read in the 570 ohm range and the needle should swing freely with that range on most ohm meters. It is a 200 micro-amp full scale meter, I have found a source of NIB meters that only need the scale swapped. And these meters are easy to open...Arbitrary Meters - < 1 ma item MTR SMB-194480. Only $19 Here is my thread detailing this procedure:http://www.steelsoldiers.com/auxilla...erhauling.html
The TM series are TM-5-6115-584-nn. The operator and unit maintenance is the -12 and the direct support-depot manual is the -34. You need both. Parts are in the -24P.
The frequency gauge is pegged to the right side or on 65 hertz.
If I can get it off the truck today and get some batteries in it, I might try to start it and flash the generator fields as per some of the posts I have read. I talking to a friend of mine at work who used to rebuild electric motors and generators, he told me that this is probably the problem.
Bruce
Keith_J already covered the flashing issue; but wanted to add a x2 to that. Losing residual magnetism is common in smaller generator sets so the general advice given to you by your friend is good advice...but it doesn't apply to your -002a. The field flash occurs every time you start the generator during the time the switch is held in the start position. If the set actually doesn't produce power, the most likely cause is the voltage regulator board.
I have seen several sets with failed frequency meters, and the culprit almost always turns out to be the frequency transducer. However...you said that the meter is pegged high scale without the generator running (and without any batteries even installed). This leads me to believe that the problem is more likely the meter itself, as it should be resting low scale. The test for the transducer isn't too difficult (as Keith_J described), so you should still rule that out as a possibility.
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71 M35A2: 395's, flatbed, LED lighting, water/meth injection, full hydro, etc.
01 Dodge Ram 5.9: Fast. Real fast.
90 Samurai: onboard air, toyota PS, lockers, 6.5 tcase, Warn 9.5XP etc.
00 Vitara: Unimog 404 axles, air lockers, 4 link, full hydro, W56 tranny, dual cases, 40" pitbull rockers with Stauns, work in progress
01 XJ: Ford 8.8" w/ Ected locker, lock right front, 4.56 gears, SYE kit, custom bumpers, sliders, onboard air, etc.
Lots of MEP's
One very understanding wife
Thanks all for the replies and good info. After a little more inspection I have found that someone has swiped the throttle cable.......oh well.......the spending begins
Is the voltage regulator board repairable or is this a replacement item?
But, I wouldn't worry about that until you have the set up and running. Once you're there you can determine what your actual problems are.
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71 M35A2: 395's, flatbed, LED lighting, water/meth injection, full hydro, etc.
01 Dodge Ram 5.9: Fast. Real fast.
90 Samurai: onboard air, toyota PS, lockers, 6.5 tcase, Warn 9.5XP etc.
00 Vitara: Unimog 404 axles, air lockers, 4 link, full hydro, W56 tranny, dual cases, 40" pitbull rockers with Stauns, work in progress
01 XJ: Ford 8.8" w/ Ected locker, lock right front, 4.56 gears, SYE kit, custom bumpers, sliders, onboard air, etc.
Lots of MEP's
One very understanding wife
You are right......I really need to get this thing running first and make sure there are no funny noises and such. Just trying to get ahead of the game here and get as much info as I can.
__________________ On my way back to Shattered Socket Garage... "If I had some 53's I'd put them on my M818 if I had an M818".....me
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