tsmall07

I decided that there was no way that I was going to buy the stock replacement tie rod end at $109. I figured I could build something better for the same cost that would make it much cheaper to change ends in the future. This is what I ended up with. Its 1.5" OD 1/4" wall DOM tube with weld in inserts. One end is left hand and one is right hand for easy alignments. It should be strong enough. If any of you guys want one, let me know and I'll make them for $110 plus shipping (without rod ends). I can make them cheaper for those that only drive on road and wouldn't require such beef.

Attached Images

	dscn1044_532.jpg (61.8 KB, 278 views)
	dscn1043_108.jpg (71.6 KB, 284 views)

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1971 M35A2 11.00x20 XLs
1985 M1008 Flatbed

gimpyrobb

Looks stout! (Your porn mag is peering out from under the bed!)

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Trained at Fort Arnold.

ucfjeeper

ha ha ha, what dieselpower?

tsmall07

**** yea man. They have a story in that issue called "update your 6/5L for more power" (it also applies to the 6.2). I think its the current issue.

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1971 M35A2 11.00x20 XLs
1985 M1008 Flatbed

gimpyrobb

Yeah, DP. Its good to see a (some what) tech post. Its hard to do anything here with the cold and no indoors to work in.

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Trained at Fort Arnold.

1956_4x4

Is there some type of lock nut for the tie rod ends to lock them in place?

Smitty

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M1031 - Regeared to 3.73, 33" BFG A/T tires, converted to 12 volt, and used daily for work.
M101A2 Trailer - Just starting on this one. Need wood for bows.

tsmall07

I've got jam nuts for them, I just didn't have that one on there in the picture.

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1971 M35A2 11.00x20 XLs
1985 M1008 Flatbed