CDR valves are important but unfortunately not supported in the aftermarket and GM wants an arm, a leg, and something else (or two) for them.
These should be replaced every 50k according to GM (correct me if I'm wrong) but the diesel gurus seem to agree that much more frequent intervals are better. However it seems like they aren't common in the aftermarket as a replacement part. Pretty much the GM/AC Delco route is the only one any of us could find in my CDR thread.
The correct GM part number for the military spec'd part is 25042462 with AC Delco calling the same part the CV871. The part listed for a 1986 Chevy K30 6.2L civilian truck is a 25042248 in the GM parts book and a CV870 according to AC Delco. GM and EVERYONE else list the military spec part as obsolete and it's a dead end. The civilian part could not be located at NAPA, Advanced Auto (Kragen/Schucks/Shumers), Auto Zone, CarQuest, and two local places here in Traverse City, MI. The only locations I personally could find them were my local GM dealers at $71 each and www.Rock-Auto.com for about $41 delivered.
I have a feeling these are becoming a rare part as the box I received is definitely old having the older AC label on it and the date code on the box being from 1997. Others have alluded to getting the part from different suppliers but I haven't tracked this down. I'd definitely consider mine NOS.
The civilian part bolts right to the CUCV's mount and the hoses hook right up to it. Mine had a slightly different angle on the pipe that curves out and away towards the front of the truck but it might just be a manufacturing deviation and didn't pose any sort of problem.
89 Chevy K5 Blazer. 6.2L diesel, stockish, and clean.
These opinions and thoughts moderated with your sensibilities in mind.
Sold my CUCV and won't likely be back. If you want a good forum with excellent knowledge of 73-87 GM trucks where folks won't judge you for modifying YOUR vehicle, please join us at www.ColoradoK5.com .
Oh, and don't EVER buy anything from Alfa Heaven. Do a search.
One of the threads above references the NAPA GPR109 glow plug relay. This part is meant for pre-Powerstroke Ford diesels. It is $25 or so while the GPR110 which is very similar costs around $85. We're not sure what the difference is between the two but even the local NAPA couldn't tell me other than to say "$60 more". I used the 109 and so far, so good.
There are two small issues with using the NAPA Ford GPR109 relay, both of which are perfectly fixable.
1. The brackets on the stock relay are of a "north and south" orientation with one on the top and one on the bottom. The 109 has them in a sort of "north and west" orientation. All I did was put the north bracket in the stock hole and then drill a new hole below the stock lower hole to mount the west bracket with. I just couldn't turn it enough to use the stock lower hole without hitting the brake system stuff there to the right of it. Some people have reported they were able to get theirs to line up with the stock holes without trouble but I was unable to do that with mine. Might just be me.
2. The 109's larger studs use different threads than the stock relay's larger studs do. You will have to go out and find new nuts because of this. Minor but it is something to take care of before you're kneeling on the radiator shroud, stretched across the engine cussing.
The two smaller stock studs use the same thread as the 109's smaller studs so their nuts can be reused on the 109. Note that this is for the original style relay these trucks came with from the factory. I do not know if the updated relay the military used was different.
89 Chevy K5 Blazer. 6.2L diesel, stockish, and clean.
These opinions and thoughts moderated with your sensibilities in mind.
Sold my CUCV and won't likely be back. If you want a good forum with excellent knowledge of 73-87 GM trucks where folks won't judge you for modifying YOUR vehicle, please join us at www.ColoradoK5.com .
Oh, and don't EVER buy anything from Alfa Heaven. Do a search.
Autozone starter relay is part number AC40 and comes up as a blower motor relay but will work fine and only costs $6 as opposed to $20 or more anywhere else.
If you would like to add an electric fuel pump to make fuel filter changes, water draining, priming after repairs, etc... easier, then you can use a 12v electric pump from a late 80's 6.2L civi truck. I wired it with an inline fuse to an ign. on circuit on the fuse block and used GM weather-pack connectors to make it look factory. I used it like that for 8 years without a problem. Just make sure to use an inline filter before the pump to catch any trash. Change it when you change your primary filter can. Also mount the pump on the frame close to the fuel tank so the fuel with keep the pump cool and it will also be less likely to suck air through a pinhole in the line. It's always easier to find a hole in your fuel line with a drip.
Chris Stansbury, founder of Chris' CUCV Homepage in 1998 and Steel Soldiers in 1999.
1992 BMY M925A2 - FOR SALE!!
1991 BMY M923A2, SOLD
What is the proper procedure to shift into 4H, from 4H-4L, 4L-4H, and back to 2WD. I am not sure I do it right, there is some grinding when I'm going between ranges. I looked in the Op man. and didnt find what I was looking for.
from 2hi to 4hi as long as the hubs are locked in you can shift at any speed, i recomend you do it while coasting no throttle. from 4hi to 4lo sto pthe vehicle shift to neutral then pull the lever into 4lo may take a bit of a jerk.
Maritimer
Yarmouth, NS, Canada
M1009
Hopefully more to come
looking at aquriing a BTR-60PB any tips or pointers etc would be appreciated
prob want to put this in the sticky in the hmmwv and Cucv threads but you can get them from about any parts store. I called Napa, Autozone, Advance, and orielly. they could all get it.
Dorman 904-101
it was $9.52
This is the kit that will get you all the little rubber flex lines that go on the injectors and the clamps that hold them on. Does not come with the caps for #7 and #8
Later,
Joe
Joe
MVPA# 31736
MVCC (Military Vehicle Collectors of Colorado)
Hey, I want in on this horse-beating rank-building stuff, too! Yeah, we all know that the blank is B and the blind code is 73Y2. I hear rumors that those details are in a FAQ somewhere... most likely in the bottom of a locked filing cabinet stuck in a disused lavatory with a sign on the door saying "Beware of The Leopard". But how about the cutting code: That's 313531! And the blank: Jet calls it a B49. Ilco uses yet another number; they call it S1098B! I could list the cut depths and spaces, but wouldn't it be better if I did that in a different post?
To use the key, insert it in the lock and then turn it either clockwise or counterclockwise, as required. That would be deasil or widdershins, respectively, in very old vehicles.
I can't let a chance to post a picture go by!
If you think that money can't buy love, try buying a cheeseburger for a dog!
I have 2 M1008 with Death Wobble. Both presently have new Tie rods Drag link and fairly new tires. One has new steering box and I still can't aseem to stop the Shimmy, which seems to occur at about 40mph. Any quick fix, or solutions? Thanks, Phil
RE: FAQ Thread for CUCV
