I would rate this as the third most common problem, but probably the most expensive one if you don't know what to do when it happens.
CUCVs have an extra starter relay under the dash. It is known to either rust and not work making the truck not start or to stick in the on position letting the starter run until the wiring harness or the starter itself burns up and is permanently damaged. You should read the two links below and the links mentioned in them before you even put batteries in the truck. This is probably the most important thing to know and to think about so you will know what to do should it happen to you.
Hey I was trying to read the articles but the links don't work. The previous owner of my truck had the starter turn on on him and ruin the flex plate. So I need to know how to prevent this from happening again.
The links must have lost their meaning in the change over. I will go back and edit the original post when I get time or you can search the CUCV forum for "starter relay".
I have edited the original post with the essential infor.
Last edited by Michael; 11-12-2008 at 18:46.
Reason: update
when replacing the fuel lift pump on the cucv the little mettle rod that actuates the pump must be inserted fully into its little hole to get it to stay up in place put a little wheel bearign grease on the end that slides in
Maritimer
Yarmouth, NS, Canada
M1009
Hopefully more to come
looking at aquriing a BTR-60PB any tips or pointers etc would be appreciated
I was at CarQuest today since I had a starter relay do the unspeakable to my starter this morning and found out that they are changing the part number. The old number RY117 will still be on the box for about a year the new number is RC1784.
I've seen on the site that people routinely have the same difficulties with starters. I think I've read them all looking for the Holy Grail. I am frustrated after 5 weeks of no CUCV and endless bills and still haven't solved the problem.
Everything worked great till bolt broke on the starter and had to replace the starter.
Since then...
Multiple fusible links, alternator rebuild, new battery, 4 rebuilt starters (2 unrelated sources), multiple starter relays (GM and Autozone). There is reference to a HD Napa relay but when I gave that number they told me the number crosses back to a blower moter not a relay.
No starter lasted more then 10 starts. Worst was 4.
Added new dedicated ground and cleaned up old grounds. Checked all wiring and no shorts, cracked insulation etc. Installed solenoid wire so no risk of it contacting main starter power cable. Also have traced wiring in the dash and in the engine compartment in the bundles and out -- no sign of anything wrong. Even changed the ignition switch and checked the wiring in the column to ensure no wire had worn through.
Typically would start a few times and then go back to the dreaded click. Last time started 10 times - key out of the ignition and it started to crank on its own till fusible link burned. After new ground, new fusible link and more tracing reconnected and fusible link burned again. I am now suspecting there is an internal short in the starter.
Is there a way to bench test a 24V starter?
Can it really be that I have gotten 3 bad starter rebuilds in a row?! The system is its original 24V and I wanted to keep it way. I am now seeing why people go to 12V conversions. Is it impossible to get a decent 24V rebuild?
I understand the common starter relay mod done but after 24 years of it working as GM designed it putting in a heavier duty relay would be compensating for another problem in the system. I could do that retrofit later but didn't have the problem till failure of the 1st starter. I want to isolate the real cause of what is creating this problem.
The vehicle was reliable till the stater failed mechanically. According to the MX records the previous replacement done 15k miles back. They neglected to put the support bracket back on! If they had I'd not have this problem now!
Stubborn Starter Problems CUCV
