I've seen on the site that people routinely have the same difficulties with starters. I think I've read them all looking for the Holy Grail. I am frustrated after 5 weeks of no CUCV and endless bills and still haven't solved the problem.
Everything worked great till bolt broke on the starter and had to replace the starter.
Since then...
Multiple fusible links, alternator rebuild, new battery, 4 rebuilt starters (2 unrelated sources), multiple starter relays (GM and Autozone). There is reference to a HD Napa relay but when I gave that number they told me the number crosses back to a blower moter not a relay.
No starter lasted more then 10 starts. Worst was 4.
Added new dedicated ground and cleaned up old grounds. Checked all wiring and no shorts, cracked insulation etc. Installed solenoid wire so no risk of it contacting main starter power cable. Also have traced wiring in the dash and in the engine compartment in the bundles and out -- no sign of anything wrong. Even changed the ignition switch and checked the wiring in the column to ensure no wire had worn through.
Typically would start a few times and then go back to the dreaded click. Last time started 10 times - key out of the ignition and it started to crank on its own till fusible link burned. After new ground, new fusible link and more tracing reconnected and fusible link burned again. I am now suspecting there is an internal short in the starter.
Is there a way to bench test a 24V starter?
Can it really be that I have gotten 3 bad starter rebuilds in a row?! The system is its original 24V and I wanted to keep it way. I am now seeing why people go to 12V conversions. Is it impossible to get a decent 24V rebuild?
I understand the common starter relay mod done but after 24 years of it working as GM designed it putting in a heavier duty relay would be compensating for another problem in the system. I could do that retrofit later but didn't have the problem till failure of the 1st starter. I want to isolate the real cause of what is creating this problem.
The vehicle was reliable till the stater failed mechanically. According to the MX records the previous replacement done 15k miles back. They neglected to put the support bracket back on! If they had I'd not have this problem now!
I'd like it reliable again. What am I missing?
Thanks for your advice in advance.
You need to start a new thread with your question. This thread is for answers to common problems. Sounds like you have more than the common starter relay problem, but I think it still may be your main problem.
GM used a off-the-shelf heater relay as a starter relay in the CUCV. Its purpose is to take the 12 volt signal form the ignition switch and trigger the 24 v starter solenoid on the starter. Some of us feel that the original made in USA relay was just barely up to to the task and that the current made in China relays (along with aging problems in the circuits) are falling short. Some of the things you did sounds like a good idea and some of it was just throwing new parts at the problem. Did all of the failures start with a stuck starter relay?
What should i expect the best free way speed to be ? i was told my cucv wont go over 65 ( have not taken delivery of it yet )mph is that true or can i push it to like 80
What should i expect the best free way speed to be ? i was told my cucv wont go over 65 ( have not taken delivery of it yet )mph is that true or can i push it to like 80
Would really help to know what CUCV you own....
Mike
Steel Soldiers Support Staff
1970 M35A2 W/W
1986 M1009
1952 M37
Quote:
If you can read this, thank a teacher, If its in English, thank a veteran!!!
235/85/16 tires, 4.56 axle ratio and 1:1 on the transmission. Do the math, you will be at about 3500 at 65mph. The max engine rpm is 3600 rpm.
I limit mine to 60 mph on the speedometer, that is about 3000 rpm. Bigger tires is an easy way to gain 5-10 mph top end but it will slow you on the take off some. 33" tires will gain you about 4 mph. I have 285/75/16's on mine now. With the GPS, 60 indicated on the speedometer is actually 64 on the GPS(at 3000 rpm). 3000 rpm is loud and sounds high!
80 mph would be about 4100 rpm, since they are diesel and governed, 80 is impossible, stock.
I am in the process of putting 37" tires on mine. That should gain 10 mph top speed. I'll be happy with that. I don't plan to tow much with it. I am told a 4" lift will work, but on road only. 6 would be better, in my opinion. I think I am going with a 5.5" front 1 ton spring from Super Lift. Not sure about the rear yet. I just painted my 16.5" rims today. I bought used 37" humvee tires from Ken Kublo.
cool ! i am going to use a shakle reverse in the rear and superlift front springs with ORD shackles and bilstine shocks. as for rims my friend has a set of 16.5 bead locks for me and i want to use the inter truxs tires and wfo cross over steering kit. some day down the road it will get a 6.0 liter and a sm465 and a np205 with twin sticks. i used to have a suburban with a 6 inch lift and 37's
I have 2 M1008 with Death Wobble. Both presently have new Tie rods Drag link and fairly new tires. One has new steering box and I still can't aseem to stop the Shimmy, which seems to occur at about 40mph. Any quick fix, or solutions? Thanks, Phil
