FAQ Thread for CUCV's

[Mudstone]

Originally Posted by Alredneck

Umm, why create a new thread when we can keep all the questions in one thread especially if it relates to a previous FAQ, that way it does not become a new FAQ and waste such space in other areas!

Its more convenient to look up info in one thread with a bunch of posts ( all with relating material ) than it is to search through countless threads, with countless post.

By the way thanks for the info!

Because we have a search function and most all of these questions are answered in specific existing threads... This FAQ is for posting ANSWERS to Frequently Asked Questions. It's turning into a mess of information that is impossible to navigate. Thus producing nothing useful.

[akonitony]

I just had a nice surprise from my favorite M1008. I thought only the M1028 and M1031 came with the limited slip diff in the D60 front axle, but when I started the latest mod on my M1008, which is a lift using 52" M1009 rear springs in the front, I found out different. While I am sure there are many of you out there who already know this, I just figured I would type away a little because of the nice-find endorphins currently pulsing through my veins. I had already removed and rebuilt a D60F from my one and only M1031, which is a donor-mobile, thinking I would be doing much better with all wheel drive on the 1008.
Lo and behold, when I went to drain the front axle on the M1008, I recognized the carrier as the same exact one in the M1031 axle. Wow! My net worth just shot up some $500. While I and my dogs were all very happy to find this, my wife still didn't see the forest through the trees. Anyway, I finally realized how to tell which M1008 trucks have this wonderful-to-look-at-and-delightful-to-hold gizmo in their front axle. While one can look at the GVWR, which is 9600# on this M1008, the helper spring on the top of the rear leafs is also a nice way to tell. The weird thing is, they still have an NP208 TC in the M1008 trucks with the positrac front ends, so as far as I can tell, the helper springs and increased GVWR are the only way to tell. Anyway, that's really all I have to say about that.

PS: Ok, one more thing: There was no tag on the diff cover bolts letting you know it was a posi either. Isn't that wild?

[doghead]

Does your vin number contain HD in it?

Like this, 1GCHD34J0HF311237 (should have front locker)

or is it like this, 1GCGD34J2FF439536 (does not usually have front locker)

[SmokeyDod]

There's only 1 exception to the 4th digit being a "H" and that applies to the M1010 which has the "H" because of weight but does NOT have the "Trac-Lok" front D60. All others with the "H" came with the "Trac-Lok".

[85cucvM1009]

hi i just got my 85 cucv in nov works great till now. the day day went to start it and the light was on want out hard the relay clicking away. i saw the battery garge was not dropping like it did before and it wan't start. the replaced the glowplugs, relay, and still the same thing happens. any help would be very usefull thank to any one who can help.


mark

[Warthog]

Originally Posted by 85cucvM1009

hi i just got my 85 cucv in nov works great till now. the day day went to start it and the light was on want out hard the relay clicking away. i saw the battery garge was not dropping like it did before and it wan't start. the replaced the glowplugs, relay, and still the same thing happens. any help would be very usefull thank to any one who can help.


mark

Please do not double post your question. It is against the Forum rules.

And use this thread to provide part numbers, ideas and answers to common questions. Not to ask new questions.

Thanks

[Warthog]

Recovry4x4 found a great article about the wear patterns of the Stanadyne DB-2 Injectory pumps. Thanks.

[Iamnewatthis]

Originally Posted by Mike_Pop

GM: 15591718

NAPA: AR135

Carquest: RY117

Autozone: AC40 (Has five pins but will work. This is also a Ford heater relay)

So which four do we use?

I am heading to auto zone to replace this is why I ask.

Thanks.
Never mind, i thought this was a one wire at a time deal. Got it and realized it was a plug. Got it done and thanks for the huge heads up and saving us all some money!

[Iamnewatthis]

I need a little help with this glow plug relay.
mine was the original in the last picture.
i now have the one in the first picture.
My top wire is red and looks like yours is white and goes on top big post.
My bottom post had two oranges on it, a big one and a small one.
On my old relay the next wire down from the top is blue, then pink, on
the new relay, where do i put the blue and the pink wires? it almost looks like on yours
you put the blue on the left small post, and didn't put anything on the right small post?
thanks for your help

[Iamnewatthis]

Originally Posted by Michael

CUCVs use metric bolts so you will need metric tools to work on them.

The main problems with CUCVs are charging issues and glow plug issues. The original glow plug relay was defective and should have been replaced before the truck left the service. If you have one that looks like the one in last two pictures, you should replace it. Most come out of the service with one like in the third picture. Some of the dealers here have had them in the past. The first picture shows one I got at NAPA. I used ECH GPR109 for $28.49. It looks just like the ECH GPR110 but it is $85.49.

The ST85 looks like what the military went to and is $54.49 at NAPA online or 45.20 at the local store. It also shows one way to bypass the voltage dropping resister. Here is a link to some pictures I took when I replaced my last relay with a ST-85. The old one is what came with the truck from the military.

Glowplug relay comparsion - Michael's Photos



The 109 and 110 relays will bolt up with the same holes as the original relay. They don't come with nuts on the posts and they aren't the same size as the original so you will need to get some while you are at the store.

Okay my last post i was refering to the above post.