So here it is, you guys asked for a FAQ thread. I am going to watch this one closely, so please keep all posts geared towards useful info. If you are posting referencing a past thread, please include the link to the thread. From time to time, I may clean up the thread, pointless posts will be removed, and I may edit posts to keep them on track.
Let's try to make this a good place for all of the questions that seem to come up every few months.
my photo album
1969 M35a2c with M34 rims and 1100 singles
1985 M1008 CUCV w/Banks Turbo
6" superlift springs
crossover steering
rear disc brake conversion
38.5" ground hawgs on hmmwv rims
Democracy is two wolves and a sheep voting on what's for dinner. Liberty is a well-armed sheep contesting the vote.
There are 4 boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order. Starting now.
Common maintenance items: BELTS All W/O AC
Goodyear "Gatorback" - 15485 fits the passenger side alternator on the 6.2
Gates - Driver's side Alt, 7575 Pass side Alt, 7483 Power Steering, 7448
HOSES
NAPA - Upper: NBH7995 Lower:NBH7996
GLOW PLUG RELAY
NAPA - ST85
Or
Ford Powerstroke relay
NAPA - ECHGPR110
Good discussion about the differences between the GPRs
CUCVs use metric bolts so you will need metric tools to work on them.
The main problems with CUCVs are charging issues and glow plug issues. The original glow plug relay was defective and should have been replaced before the truck left the service. If you have one that looks like the one in last two pictures, you should replace it. Most come out of the service with one like in the third picture. Some of the dealers here have had them in the past. The first picture shows one I got at NAPA. I used ECH GPR109 for $28.49. It looks just like the ECH GPR110 but it is $85.49.
The ST85 looks like what the military went to and is $54.49 at NAPA online or 45.20 at the local store. It also shows one way to bypass the voltage dropping resister. Here is a link to some pictures I took when I replaced my last relay with a ST-85. The old one is what came with the truck from the military.
The 109 and 110 relays will bolt up with the same holes as the original relay. They don't come with nuts on the posts and they aren't the same size as the original so you will need to get some while you are at the store.
Last edited by Michael; 05-13-2009 at 17:46.
Reason: added link, then added metric tools
I would rate this as the third most common problem, but probably the most expensive one if you don't know what to do when it happens.
CUCVs have an extra starter relay under the dash. It is known to either rust and not work making the truck not start or to stick in the on position letting the starter run until the wiring harness or the starter itself burns up and is permanently damaged. You should read the two links below and the links mentioned in them before you even put batteries in the truck. This is probably the most important thing to know and to think about so you will know what to do should it happen to you.
The wiring diagram for the CUCV glow plug system are incorrect. If you are replacing a missing Glow Plug Relay, the small orange wire goes to the glow plug side of the relay, not the resistor side as shown on the wiring diagram. If it is on the resistor side, the controller will light up the wait light, but will not activate the relay.
Later,
Joe
Joe
MVPA# 31736
MVCC (Military Vehicle Collectors of Colorado)
if your expieriencing vibrations at low speeds try rotating your rear driveshaft 180* on the pinion. also if your in canada and looking for parts the GM Stealerships do not have acess to any parts information your best option is NAPA
Maritimer
Yarmouth, NS, Canada
M1009
Hopefully more to come
looking at aquriing a BTR-60PB any tips or pointers etc would be appreciated
FAQ Thread for CUCV's
