Removing the blackout lights and 24volt jump systems
Yep, another post by me.
I've decided I want to remove the blackout lights and their switches on the dash. What needs to be done to safely do this? I know the switches can basically shut off the electrical system so I don't want to cheese whiz this and have it come back and haunt me.
The plan is to mount some small fog and/or offroad lights in their place. Might actually be able to see behind me in reverse.
Also like to remove the 24volt jump plug dohickey from the front of the truck. What is required to remove this?
I think a set of larger offroad lights will end up in that space and the opposite space where the some sort of light is mounted in the grill.
"Big Ugly" M1008 CUCV. 11.00R16 (38x11ishR16) Michelin XL's, 1" of front lift, cut fenders, camo paint, stereo and stuff, and lots of plans.
Please note that while I am keeping it military-ish I am not restoring it and any comments about my "restoration sins" are unwelcome. I want a useful 1-ton 4x4 pickup, not a restored military vehicle.
89 Chevy K5 Blazer. 6.2L diesel, stockish, and clean.
These opinions and thoughts moderated with your sensibilities in mind.
RE: Removing the IR and blackout light and 24volt jump syste
Well, as the cucv has no infrared lights, you have no problem there. The Nato Slave Receptical is a two wire affair... guess you can handle that by following the leads back to the junction block on the firewall. I surmise you are confusing the black out drive light with infrared. Just a simple 12V light grounded thru the frame of the truck and powered by one wire from the lighting control switch bank. You dinky around too much there and you will find that the master light swith is controlled there too. Simpler for you just to put in a fused 12 setup with separate switches for your civvy stuff... Get the 12 V from the 12V feed from the front battery just like GM did. Try not to let too much smoke out of the wires.
RE: Removing the IR and blackout light and 24volt jump syste
The slave connector goes to the terminal strips at the rear of the batteries on the firewall. Disconnect the cables there then unbolt the connector from the radiator support. Once the cables are disconnected at the firewall it is safe to pull them through to the front.
RE: Removing the IR and blackout light and 24volt jump syste
AJM is prolly referring to the blackout lights. those switches handle the power to all of the lighting. you can remove the switch and jump the connector to supply power to the service lights all the time. I would keep the original switches in place, then unplug the connector from the back of the B/O switch and run a new power wire to it from the fuse box and out to your accessory.
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RE: Removing the IR and blackout light and 24volt jump syste
Yeah, the blackout lights.
I'd like to replace the switches entirely with aftermarket (but suitably durable) switches in their place to run the forward and rear lights I will be mounting.
"Big Ugly" M1008 CUCV. 11.00R16 (38x11ishR16) Michelin XL's, 1" of front lift, cut fenders, camo paint, stereo and stuff, and lots of plans.
Please note that while I am keeping it military-ish I am not restoring it and any comments about my "restoration sins" are unwelcome. I want a useful 1-ton 4x4 pickup, not a restored military vehicle.
89 Chevy K5 Blazer. 6.2L diesel, stockish, and clean.
These opinions and thoughts moderated with your sensibilities in mind.
"Big Ugly" M1008 CUCV. 11.00R16 (38x11ishR16) Michelin XL's, 1" of front lift, cut fenders, camo paint, stereo and stuff, and lots of plans.
Please note that while I am keeping it military-ish I am not restoring it and any comments about my "restoration sins" are unwelcome. I want a useful 1-ton 4x4 pickup, not a restored military vehicle.
89 Chevy K5 Blazer. 6.2L diesel, stockish, and clean.
These opinions and thoughts moderated with your sensibilities in mind.
Removing the blackout lights and 24volt jump systems
