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12-21-2008, 00:55
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#1 (permalink)
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Sergeant Major
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Chapin, SC
Posts: 102
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My introduction, and a question
Hello all, I thought it might be a good idea to introduce myself since I am new to the forum. Yesterday I purchased my first m1009. It is an 84, has evidence of several poorly attempted wiring updates done to it and ran fine from the dealership to my house, at which point it is now just sitting and won't start.
Here is a pic I took just after I got it home:
http://ls1dmc.com/images/blazer1.jpg
First a little about me, I'm a Chevy guy though I'm partial to DeLoreans as well. I cut my teeth on a 55 Belair which I still own and have since purchased another because it seemed like a good idea at the time (grin). I've never owned a diesel engine, nor wrenched on one so this is brand new territory for me and I'll go ahead and apologize in advance for a likely amount of ignorance related to terminology and common sense. I have CD with a world of information on the 6.2 heading my way but I don't expect it to arrive for several days.
So, on to my question;
I've searched this forum a fair amount but cannot seem to find a suitable answer to my conundrum. My m1009 will not engage its starter. If I turn the key at this time, I get nothing but a light click under the dash...which as I understand is the starter relay. I have traced the wiring enough to know that the starter is still 24v with good connections but the signal wire to the starter's solenoid has undergone some mcshady good intentions treatment which doesn't allow me to trace it out very well. (I'm used to working in my shop, not outside with this 'darkness' thing I've read about) My question is a bit two fold; first, can I jumper the solenoid on this starter in the same way I can a regular 12v starter to test starter functionality without removing the starter? Also, would I hook 12v to the solenoid post or 24v?
Ok actually, now that I think about it I have another question. When I bought the truck, I was told that the ignition key cylinder was broken and would not spring back automatically from "start" to simply "on". I had no trouble twisting the key back a hair to disengage the starter after the engine cranked. I let my friend drive it to check it out, after telling him about the key starting issue, and it was after that run that the starter quit working. He said he didn't hear anything out of the ordinary after he cranked it and drove off so I suspect I have an electrical grimlin but am still curious. If he left the starter engaged while driving, would it react in this manner or would it have made a world of grinding sounds and started spitting pieces of a flex plate or starter gear out?
Anyway, thank you for taking the time to read my drivel if you did and perhaps even taking a crack at explaining my starting woes.
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12-21-2008, 01:48
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#2 (permalink)
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Fleet Admiral/Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Loxahatchee, FL
Posts: 21,037
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I'd be willing to try the under dash starter relay. As far as jumping it, you can jump it with a screw driver like a regular small block although I'm not certain its a direct shot with a long screwdriver.
__________________
3 Trucks
4 Trailers
This Steel Soldier Honors the Living Memory of David Frankenhauser, 1954-2009.
May you Sail in the Grace of Our Lord, Chaplain!
“The earnest prayer of a righteous person has great power and produces wonderful results.” James 5:16.
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12-21-2008, 02:36
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#3 (permalink)
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Colonel
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Altoona, Pennsylvania (central PA)
Posts: 204
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welcome to the fold.
__________________
1953 REO M35A2 LTD-465-1C "The Real Ugly Betty"
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12-21-2008, 02:55
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#4 (permalink)
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4 Star General
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 1,446
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You can jump the solenoid with a remote starter switch, but it is a REAL tight fit to get your hands in there to hook it up. You might be better off removing the starter and having it bench tested.
The key not returning to 'on' from 'start' you might be able to fix by pulling the column down and cleaning/lubing up the linkage between the key switch and the electrical switch on top of the column.
Later,
Joe
__________________
Joe
MVPA# 31736
MVCC (Military Vehicle Collectors of Colorado)
1972 M818 WO/W (For Sale)
1977 M816
1983 M1029 (Suburban)
1985 M1008
1986 M1009
1991 M936A2
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12-21-2008, 11:22
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#5 (permalink)
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Sergeant Major
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Chapin, SC
Posts: 102
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Well, I pulled the starter this morning. Bench tested it and the pinion gear pitches out but the motor makes all kinds of crunchy sounds trying to turn over. Ah well, I should have cranked it for him. Where would we be without our closest friends?
Anyway, so now I am in need of a 24v starter. Is there a particular dealer that you guys suggest? I found several on ebay but from what I've read here, it seems that a 24v gear reduction starter is the new hotness I should be looking for. The ones I have found on ebay seem to be just regular 24v starters or in some cases, 12v gear reduction starters. Anyway, I plan to order one tonight and try to get it here in time for Christmas. So if you guys have suggestions I'd sure appreciate them.
Thanks again for your help so far!
__________________
1955 Chevrolet 4 Door BelAir (project)
1955 Chevrolet 2 Door BelAir (drive it when I'm angry)
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (drive it when it's running)
1984 M-1009 Blazer (drive it when I need to fetch one of the others)
1996 Mazda Miata (dials out any amount of cool from all of the above, but it's fun to drive)
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12-21-2008, 11:46
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#6 (permalink)
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Colonel
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Granite city, IL
Posts: 347
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Find a good local co that rebuilds starters and alts. Have them go thru it, make sure you tell them its a 24v starter. It would be the cheaper route and if you have problems after the rebuild, you have someone to take it to instead of having to ship it back. Just my 5 cents.
__________________
m35a2c
m1009
m101a1
m101a2
m416
mep002/ask
MVPA-24541
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12-21-2008, 12:16
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#7 (permalink)
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General
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Fillmore, Indiana
Posts: 574
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Oh, shiny paint. 
That looks like a good clean body. Since it's not stock anyways, get a 700R4 and make it rattle slower!
__________________
M1008 sadly sold. Hopefully the first of many!
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12-21-2008, 16:09
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#8 (permalink)
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General
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Franklin, NJ
Posts: 433
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Hmmm, an M1009 in "civilian clothes," what will they think of next?
Nice looking truck, welcome to Steel Soldiers. Sorry to hear about your starter - but as you say "what are friends for ... "
__________________
Semper Fi,
Preston
Cpl., 0353, (Ontos Crewman) USMC 1962-66
RVN Graduating Class 1966
SGT., MP Detachment, MABS 46, MCAS EL Toro, USMCR
S/Sgt, 3rd ANGLICO, USMCR
SGM, 19Z50 (Senior Armor Sergeant) USAR, (ret)
M1009
M116A1 Pioneer Tool Trailer
M1028 Shelter Carrier
S250 Equipment Shelter
KC2AMS, General Class
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12-21-2008, 18:13
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#9 (permalink)
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Sergeant Major
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Chapin, SC
Posts: 102
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I found a starter today at the local parts house. I didn't expect to but they had a lifetime warranty on their reman starters so I picked that up. I decided to hang on to my core though as the starter they handed me is shaped differently than the one I pulled of the truck. I'm going to do some checking on the part number to see if it is a 12v or something. Was there a civilian version of the K5 with the 6.2 diesel setup in 1984?
Also, a little more about the truck itself - it has dual flow masters on it, the interior has been rhino lined and somebody replaced the rear bench at some point. The seat looks like something you'd catch a raging STD from, so I'm likely going to trash it or recover it with marine upholstery. From a cursory glance at the glow plugs and their wiring, I think they may have been converted to 12volt...oh my god how awful they look. Someone took electrical tape and spliced the connections together. I'll have to take a picture to show you guys.
Right off, I'd venture I'm going to be picking up a set of glow plugs, a set of injectors (two of mine are leaking), fuel filter updates (already ordered the pressure switch), oil and air filter details, rear wheel cylinder (leaking on the driver's side) and spending a lot of time tracing out wires. The starter relay has several other relays zip tied to it under the dash. I have no idea why someone would make the various wiring 'updates' that I have seen.
Also, I have a rear shot of it too:
http://v8dmc.com/images/blazer2.jpg
__________________
1955 Chevrolet 4 Door BelAir (project)
1955 Chevrolet 2 Door BelAir (drive it when I'm angry)
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (drive it when it's running)
1984 M-1009 Blazer (drive it when I need to fetch one of the others)
1996 Mazda Miata (dials out any amount of cool from all of the above, but it's fun to drive)
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12-23-2008, 23:47
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#10 (permalink)
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Sergeant Major
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Chapin, SC
Posts: 102
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Well, the starter that I picked up at the local Autozone was a 12v. I was able to determine that much the day I brought it home. I'll take it back when traffic isn't quite so insane. Went ahead and ordered a new 24v starter Sunday evening and it showed up today. Put it in after work, truck runs great now. On to fixing the stuff I needed to in the first place. I suspect I have around 10 to 20 lbs of unused wire under the dash, hood and strewn about the rear of the truck, hehe.
__________________
1955 Chevrolet 4 Door BelAir (project)
1955 Chevrolet 2 Door BelAir (drive it when I'm angry)
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (drive it when it's running)
1984 M-1009 Blazer (drive it when I need to fetch one of the others)
1996 Mazda Miata (dials out any amount of cool from all of the above, but it's fun to drive)
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