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01-03-2009, 00:51
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#1 (permalink)
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Private
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: utica, new york
Posts: 14
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Help!! Cucv will not start
Help  , this truck is a real pain in the a_ _ !!! After fixing a fuel problem, went to start it and the nose cone on starter broke, replaced the starter and now it will not turn over. I can hear the relay click but have no power to the starter!! Anyone PLEASE help me, I wont to burn this truck to the ground. Would take a HMMWV over a CUCV any day but its our plow truck and the snow is falling
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01-03-2009, 00:55
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#2 (permalink)
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4 Star General
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Western NY
Posts: 6,100
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I assume you have checked all your connections to make sure they are tight, have installed the extra bracket on the starter, and checked to make sure your batterys are up to snuff.
Given that, its likely that the starter relay under the dash is acting up. Do a quick search for "starter relay" in the CUCV section, and you should find several posts with info on checking it. I am sure I have posted the wire colors to check for voltage and such as well. (dont remember which is which off the top of my head)
If that doesnt help, look up the TM and work through the trouble-shooting steps.
__________________
[FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=2]Mike
1970 M35A2 W/W
1986 M1009
1952 M37[/SIZE][/FONT]
[quote]If you can read this, thank a teacher, If its in English, thank a veteran!!![/quote]
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01-03-2009, 01:50
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#3 (permalink)
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Private
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: utica, new york
Posts: 14
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All the connects are good and yes the bracket was installed. I'll have to check the relay, didn't think to earlyer because I heard it working, but will check it anyway. And I hate the TM for them, I'm a HMMWV guy, I think they are more trouble then the are worth. Were in NY are you?
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01-03-2009, 09:17
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#4 (permalink)
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Colonel
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Tug Hill, NY. Snow, Bug & Mud Country & Cold!
Posts: 316
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Last resort, try removing the starter and seeing if it spins when free. Might be binding. Also, do you have an inductive pick-up test tool? They test starter amperage draw, and alternator output, simply by placing them up against the power leads to or from each. Not expensive either.
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01-03-2009, 11:36
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#5 (permalink)
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4 Star General
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Western NY
Posts: 6,100
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I am about 30 minutes east of Rochester. Which is about 1hr 45 min from you.
__________________
[FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=2]Mike
1970 M35A2 W/W
1986 M1009
1952 M37[/SIZE][/FONT]
[quote]If you can read this, thank a teacher, If its in English, thank a veteran!!![/quote]
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01-03-2009, 15:23
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#6 (permalink)
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Private
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: utica, new york
Posts: 14
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The starter is good, new from NAPA and was tested before we bought it. I have no power to it to do a draw test. Mike any chance you could come out and look at this before I lose my mind, cann't pay you, but do have duce parts you may want in return. Is there a fuseable link between the starter and the relay that may have shorted out? I wouldn't be able to test any thing till Monday when I go back to work. Thanks for the help by the way guys!
__________________
SSG Gary Matt
Field Maintance Shop #6
Utica, New York
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01-03-2009, 15:57
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#7 (permalink)
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Colonel
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Perry, GA
Posts: 233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mangus580
I assume you have checked all your connections to make sure they are tight, have installed the extra bracket on the starter, and checked to make sure your batterys are up to snuff.
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Why does this have to be the case? The bracket that is. Is that how the starter is grounded? Does it not get a good enough ground from the 2 big bolts that go into the engine block?
Thanks,
J
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01-03-2009, 15:59
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#8 (permalink)
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4 Star General
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Western NY
Posts: 6,100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by appalacious
Why does this have to be the case? The bracket that is. Is that how the starter is grounded? Does it not get a good enough ground from the 2 big bolts that go into the engine block?
Thanks,
J
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I made the bracket comment more to make sure he didnt snap another starter...
__________________
[FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=2]Mike
1970 M35A2 W/W
1986 M1009
1952 M37[/SIZE][/FONT]
[quote]If you can read this, thank a teacher, If its in English, thank a veteran!!![/quote]
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01-03-2009, 16:00
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#9 (permalink)
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4 Star General
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Western NY
Posts: 6,100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fobrat
The starter is good, new from NAPA and was tested before we bought it. I have no power to it to do a draw test. Mike any chance you could come out and look at this before I lose my mind, cann't pay you, but do have duce parts you may want in return. Is there a fuseable link between the starter and the relay that may have shorted out? I wouldn't be able to test any thing till Monday when I go back to work. Thanks for the help by the way guys! 
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I dont think I can make it out there at this point. My vaca runs out.. and have to be back to work monday
What I can do, is start digging through the schematics in the TM's (which you could look at as well) and give you some testing procedures.
The troubleshooting section could be quite helpful too....
__________________
[FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=2]Mike
1970 M35A2 W/W
1986 M1009
1952 M37[/SIZE][/FONT]
[quote]If you can read this, thank a teacher, If its in English, thank a veteran!!![/quote]
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01-03-2009, 16:58
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#10 (permalink)
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Sergeant
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: upstate,NY
Posts: 85
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Do you have your dash lights and such when the key is turned to on position?
because if not, I would check that fuseable link on the fire wall that is a red wire from the battery that turns to blue then to a 2 pole block deal on the fire wall. That would supply the 12V to the cab. My crapped out and I had nothing. The blue part is designed to go if there were a problem. You should have 12V on both sides of that wire measured at that 2 pole deal on the fire wall. keep us posted!!!!!!!!!
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