Besides lots of prayer, of course.
This truck has been sitting for probably 18 months.
What are the standard jobs to do?
I'm expecting to hear alot about fuel filters and such.
Change all fluids (all! Including fuel), filters, give it a tune up (out-of-tune parts will only add to the complexity of dealing with any issues that come up, so get that out of the way now), fresh battery, clean and check all connections/grounds for said battery, inspect all fuel and brake likes for cracks (and replace if necessary), then get in an fire it up!
__________________
Dan Martin
1988 M35A2C (USAF)
1945 M29C Weasel
Hillsboro, OR.
MVPA# 31124
MVCCO# 828
We shall not cease from exploration
and the end of all our exploring
will be to arrive where we started
and know the place for the first time
- T.S. Eliot
Change all fluids (all! Including fuel), filters, give it a tune up (out-of-tune parts will only add to the complexity of dealing with any issues that come up, so get that out of the way now), fresh battery, clean and check all connections/grounds for said battery, inspect all fuel and brake likes for cracks (and replace if necessary), then get in an fire it up!
I've never given a tune up to a diesel. Whats included?
J
Diesel should be good after 18 months, but it might help to change the filters, and have spares just in case.
Here's my list:
ALL filters, and couple couple of each
ALL new fluids
new batteries
check tire pressure
grease gun and grease just in case a joint needs lube
spare bulbs, fuzes
fire extinguisher (just in case)
duct tape, baling wire, WD40 (always handy)
beer (same)
plenty of rags
more beer (for when you get home)
oh, and take some pictures, dammit!
__________________
Mike
maddawg308
FCC # W1AMR Extra Class
MVPA #33431
NRA Life member
2003 Dodge Durango SLT 4.7L V-8 parts hauler
1967 Stevens M416 trailer
owner of the "Dawg House" travelling Vietnam radio hooch display
avatar: Capt. Malcolm Reynolds from Firefly/Serenity
I've never given a tune up to a diesel. Whats included?
J
Basically make sure everything is adjusted correctly, not leaking, and fresh (filters, fuel, etc).
__________________
Dan Martin
1988 M35A2C (USAF)
1945 M29C Weasel
Hillsboro, OR.
MVPA# 31124
MVCCO# 828
We shall not cease from exploration
and the end of all our exploring
will be to arrive where we started
and know the place for the first time
- T.S. Eliot
Diesel fuel is usually OK for that amount of time. Depending on the fuel level you generally have two choices.
One school of thought is to top up the tank with fresh fuel to dilute the old fuel. Another is to run it with the old fuel (and maybe some cetane booster) and get the old fuel out of the system quicker. I tend towards the second approach and, unless there's a lot of crud or water when I check the filter, I'll look to get the old fuel burned off prior to changing the fuel filter.
As long as the fluid levels are up and everything passes the look, feel, smell test, I'd charge the batteries (or be ready to slave it) bleed the fuel line at the fuel filter bleed screw and crank it up.
I wouldn't drive it very far without doing a complete "annual" service.
Be prepared to deal with the usual fluid and filter changes, belts and transmission vacuum lines as needed. I'd run down that list ASAP, but would want to know if it's going to start and run first, so I knew the full extent of what I'm facing.
Assume the brakes will need service. It is more than likely that the drums are pretty rusty. The springs, pivots and parking brake cables could be rusty. I wouldn't touch the parking brake until after checking the rear brakes and cables. You don't want to set the parking brake and have it freeze up due to corrosion.
If the vehicle doesn't have silicone brake fluid, flush it and bleed it soon. Regular brake fluid is very hygroscopic and will likely be contaminated. Heck, flush and bleed it soon anyway.
Depending on what you know about it's maintenance history, I'd consider a preemptive replacement of the glow plugs at an early date. My theory is that for a minimal cost I know that's one less thing that I need to keep wondering about.
When you drive it, you'll likely feel flat spots from the tires taking a "set". Drive it slowly until they go away.
As time and budget permit, get caught up on a chassis lube, bearing and hub lube etc.
There's a good chance that the lubricating compounds and corrosion inhibitors in the coolant are shot. If you don't have a way to check that, or recharge them, flush and refill the cooling system soon.
Don't be surprised if the thermostat has given up the ghost.
Based on how it acts when you crank it up and a good thoughtful inspection, you can set up the timing and sequence of all this.
If you are not already getting commercial pricing at your parts supplier, ask! My experience has been that the local store that's been around forever will usually give you commercial pricing long before the bright shiny chain stores.
Simply explaining to the magager that you are a collector, commiting do your business with them and asking for a discount will go a long way to keeping the hobby more affordable.
I just got my m1008 fired up yesterday after picking it up from GL, I don,t know how long it sat but was probably about a year. I checked engine fluids charged the batteries looked wiring and fuel system over and cranked it over. Temp was about 20 degrees, no start, recharged the batteries( they are old ) checked the glow plugs ( one bad) and tried again, again no go. Charged the batteries next day temp is about 30 degrees, put a kerosene torpedo heater under the front end, and sprayed the intake with some WD40. cycled the glow plugs 3 times and she fired up after the second try. Found out the military was working on the tranny, cooling lines disconnected and fly wheel inspection cover loose , made quite a racket{noisy},but the engine ran and sounded good, now to find out what the military was trying to fix.
At least now I know what I have to deal with, Good Luck with yours. If it starts and moves then recheck everything and perform a safety inspection.
First question I have... is did YOU put it in 'storage' 18 months ago? or are you buying one thats been sitting.
If you put it away, and know the state when parked, I say top off the batteries and give it a shot.
If its an unknown... Follow all the advice above.
Thanks for all the advice guys. I'm really a novice so this is all golden to me.
I parked it 18 months ago when one of my batteries failed. It was in the middle of cranking (had been daily driver up to then) and it just died right in the middle of a crank.
I tried to diagnose the problem- did some rewiring, etc. Turns out it was just a bad battery. So I put a new one in (although not a 6TN or whatever- I just put in a big one) tried to crank it and got a weird loud rattle. That scared me into just converting the whole thing to 12V so it'd be easier to diagnose the problems- plus i never wrapped my head around the 24V circuit so thats another reason i wanted 12V.
Also, the GP relay seems to cycle on and off multiple times with ignition "on". Don't know what thats about.