Engine Death Knell... ? - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite

Refalgren · 01-06-2009, 22:15

Today, I went to start my M1008, and It made an incredible grinding racket, instead of turning over normally.

I am currently unsure what damage is or has been done. My room mate commented that it sounded like I have vapor locked my engine, and was severely chewing up my flexplate/flywheel. That would be plausible to explain the grinding noise. Any ideas on this end, or should I have someone take a look at it FTF?

Westech · 01-06-2009, 22:19

sounds like a starter fly wheel problem. Go punch your Room mate in the head on vapor lock. That just blocks the flow of fuel to the engine.

Hydro Lock is what stops a engine from turning. That is when fluid has filled the cylinder and as we all know fluids do not compress. But if that had happened the started would engage the fly wheel and not turn.. just go Clunk/click.

hippiedude · 01-06-2009, 22:40

You might want to check out your starter , it could be lose or have a broken bolt....... Tim

fobrat · 01-06-2009, 22:46

I would have to say Westech is right. does sound like starter and fly wheel are bad. You'll have to replace both. Sounds like a flat spot in fly wheel. Turn the engine over by hand at the crank, sould only have to turn it 1/4 turn or so and should start right up, though it will sound real bad when turning it over. but then it be running so you can move to be worked on.

hobie237 · 01-06-2009, 22:51

+1 on the roommate being an idiot and deserving a punch in the face. Vapor lock is mostly an issue with carburetors, and aircraft. It also wouldn't cause much in the way of permanent damage, if it would cause any damage at all. And it's something that happens when fuel boils. Even in Georgia, I doubt it's that hot this time of year.

Anyhoo, sounds like a starter binding/not meshing with the flexplate. More than likely it's loose or whatever. Have you tried it since?

Refalgren · 01-06-2009, 23:13

If its a issue with the flywheel/starter meshing, then it is probably the death knell of my flywheel. It was damaged before, by the previous, incorrect starter. current starter is the updated, aluminum motor body, correct GM starter. Pricey bastage at around $350. Hope I didn't damage it too

Russ · 01-07-2009, 02:31

Saw a bone head destroy his flywheel when his engine was HYDROLOCKED but not vapor locked.

Max Power · 01-07-2009, 04:06

I have also had kind of the same problem. I just got my m1009 and it makes the same grinding sound, which I figured was a problem with the starter or flywheel. It has now gotten so bad that after it makes the grinding noise it sounds like the starter breaks free from the flywheel and it just spins without turning the engine over.

Then I will finally get it to start and turn over if the starter and flywheel match up for long enough, but it will soon die, acts like it is being starved of fuel. After doing this a couple times it will start right up, run at high rpms for about 3 minutes, then go to low rpms and run like a champ. Once I have done this it will start right up every time.

I havent dug into it yet but since it seems like multiple problems im sure I will have to dig into the starter and see if im getting air in the fuel system somehwere.

Has anyone ran into anything like this?

hobie237 · 01-07-2009, 08:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russ

Saw a bone head destroy his flywheel when his engine was HYDROLOCKED but not vapor locked.

If the flywheel was all he destroyed, he was extremely lucky. The hydrolock damage that I've seen was mostly internal, including things like bent rods, or rods tossed through the side of the block.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max Power

I have also had kind of the same problem. I just got my m1009 and it makes the same grinding sound, which I figured was a problem with the starter or flywheel. It has now gotten so bad that after it makes the grinding noise it sounds like the starter breaks free from the flywheel and it just spins without turning the engine over.

Then I will finally get it to start and turn over if the starter and flywheel match up for long enough, but it will soon die, acts like it is being starved of fuel. After doing this a couple times it will start right up, run at high rpms for about 3 minutes, then go to low rpms and run like a champ. Once I have done this it will start right up every time.

I havent dug into it yet but since it seems like multiple problems im sure I will have to dig into the starter and see if im getting air in the fuel system somehwere.

Has anyone ran into anything like this?

Yeah, my truck is doing something similar. The grinding on mine is infrequent enough (like once a month in daily usage) for me to forget about it and never get around to diagnosing it. The start/die issue is a problem, because on cold days, I can drain the batteries before it'll re-fire and stay going, so I have to jump the truck.

I'll get around to diagnosing this stuff, um, when I get to it. I did find that it's not hard to jump the CUCV from a 12v car, just connect the 12v car battery to the second battery for 30 seconds or so, then the first battery, then crank. It'll dies pretty quick, and I'd skip the glow plugs, just use starting fluid. Oh, and that's how I mitigate the other issue too, the starting fluid can keep it going long enough for good fuel delivery to occur. Just don't mix starting fluid with glow plugs.

High idle/low idle is perfectly normal.

fobrat · 01-07-2009, 11:58

They are not hydrolock problems, if you take the fly wheel out and look at it, the starter only strikes the fly wheel in 4 spots. that is why some times it does it and some times it doesn't. You will have to replace the starter and fly wheel. Tryed just relacing the fly wheel before and had no luck, ended up replacing it anyway. You can get a 24v starter form NAPA part#246-5042. its about $185 plus core. It is a starter fly wheel problem and nothing else.