I've been reading CUCV Alternator threads for the past two days.
I've found after reading all of this, I am somewhat confused.
First is this from Wiki CUCV:
Dual 100 amp alternators wired in series to make the 24V. Very strong charging system that will handle any load you can toss at it. Changing over to 12V is NOT recommended.
The Passenger side Alternator MUST HAVE a isolated Ground. The Driver side does not. A Autozone Part number for the DRIVER side alternator is DL7157 (also found in a 1975 cady with a V8 engine) This Alternator is 78 AMP and works just fine. You MUST have a Isolated Ground Alternator for the passenger side. ODIRON is the Best place we have found for the replacment alternator.
One question on this post is are the ALTERNATORS wired in series to make 24v? Or is it how the batteries are wired together? I'm a little fuzzy on this one. I have the TM 9-2320-289-34 wiring diagram (rather large and laminated). The generators do appear they are wired in series via the engine wiring harness block, but I could be reading this wrong.
Then there is this on a whats 24v? thread:
The CUCV alternators are 10 times the alternator you will buy at autozone. They are 100amp, but they are the large chassis alternator. They have more robust windings, and such in them. There is a reason they are so expensive.
As far as repairs on your current setup... Any starter/alternator shop will get you back up and running in no time. Truthfully, you will have more problems buying the cheap autozone stuff, than you will sticking with good high quality rebuilds. You are spending a bunch of $ out of worry. If you are that worried, take that $$ and have your current stuff rebuilt at a good shop... You will not have any trouble with it for quite some time.
The thing is, I went out and bought the drivers side alternator from Autozone part number DL7157 after reading the Wiki CUCV - but it sits on my bench new in it's box untouched. I can always attempt to return it.
Now, having said that, I actually believe the second thread. I DO believe the first thread as well. But I have always subscribed to rebuilding 'old things' (or having it done by a company that pretty much is ALL they do - like rebuilding automotive electrical items) over buying some one elses (Autozone for instance) rebuilt item - which was rebuilt god knows where and by whom.
I was planning on having both alternators that are in my truck right now rebuilt properly and then put up on my shelf so I have a good pair of rebuilt military alternators in case this happens again. I am also planning on ordering the passenger side alternator from Mike at OD Iron.
This brings up my final question. In yet a third thread, it has been said that IF THE ALTERNATORS ARE ORIGINAL (that's one I will have to look at to check for myself), they can be swapped side to side.
From the 'Charging System Help' thread:
As long as you have two ORIGINAL MILITARY alt's they are interchangable. GEN2 MUST (READ ABSOLUTELY MUST!!!!) have an isolated ground.
SO, the question is, IF the two alternators ARE the originals (must be able to verify that for myself), CAN I JUST BUY TWO ALTERNATORS FROM MIKE AT OD IRON to replace the current ones?
I own a 1985 M1009 - that has been converted to 12 volt by it's previous owner, but I'm in the process of putting it back the correct way. Fortunately, I have a 24 volt 1986 M1031 that I can use as a reference - aka 'polish blueprint'.
It APPEARS that the starter has been changed to 12 volt - heavy red cable goes directly to positive side of the firewall connector. It APPEARS that the battery cables have been changed - both positive battery cables go to positive firewall connection and both negative battery cables go to the negative firewall connection.
The NATO slave plug has had the cables cut and removed from the firewall connector.
Past that, other than the fact that one or two wires have been run off of each battery and appear to have been used to power items that are no longer attached to the vehicle (radios and lights come to mind) the only problems I'm having are dash lights not working properly and my Gen 2 light has NEVER worked - though both my U6TL's are and have always held a charge. Plus my volt meter has never worked properly - I've always thought it's because of the electrical system having been changed over to 12 volt.
All of this research started because my drivers side alternator threw a belt. When I replaced it with a used 'backup' belt, it threw the belt a second time. The third belt was new and it happened again. At this point, I need to mention that I suspect the bearings are starting to go out on the drivers side alternator given the alternator squeals upon startup, but the squealing disappears before the engine warms up.
So, I decided to replace both alternators. Hence the research. Hence the confusion after researching this. The deeper I look, the more differences I find.
SO, can I or can I not buy two alternators from Mike at OD Iron and they will BOTH work properly regardless of which side of the truck they are installed on? The cost difference is about $60 above the costs of the Autozone one, so that's not an issue.
I am so confused. Perhaps I've been looking at the trees and need to step back and look at the forest...
If you want a spare alternator... Buy 1 from Mike at ODI. Have your current 2 rebuilt, and take the Auto-junk one back. Yes, and autozone one will fit in a pinch... but you will probably have to replace it in a year (just went through this on the wifes Suburban).
If you have one good spare CUCV alternator on the shelf and 2 good ones in the truck, you should be good to go!
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[FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=2]Mike
1970 M35A2 W/W
1986 M1009
1952 M37[/SIZE][/FONT]
[quote]If you can read this, thank a teacher, If its in English, thank a veteran!!![/quote]
mike is right.... I have installed (I found the right part number) the Autozone alternator and it works ok. The military units have a lower RPM excite then the autozone part. the autozone alt may flash the charging light from time to time, and is 22 amps lower out put then the one from WWW.ODiron.com
Then purchase two from OD Iron Mike. I'm funny about having a full set of extra's. I even have a full set of fan belts, yet instead of using them, I go buy new ones to replace the new ones I have as backup. Until I get those new ones to replace my backups, I don't use them.
Having one on the shelf is OK. Having 2 properly rebuilt ones on the shelf is where I live...
I even have two spares and rotate SIX tires on my M1009. Go figure.
So, I guess I will order two and they will both work on either side.
I'm resurrecting this old thread 'cause I need some extra infos.
One of my alts is dead beyond repair, the guy at the repair shop said the rotors windings are gone, broken somewhere inside.
The other alt is still working but shows signs of age, has been rebuilt abt 2 years ago and from then I have to rev engine a little bit at starting to turn off the gen light.
This said, I think the best insurance is buying a set of two new alts.
Reading here, I have been on Odiron website and they have 2 alts listed, #321744 (100A) and #321744-150A.
It would be nice to upgrade to the 150A one, but from the website description it's not clear if the 150A has insulated ground or not (maybe not and can be used only for gen1 ??)
Anybody knows if the 150A version has insulated ground and can be used for both alts?
I want to keep both alts identical for emergency swapping purpose (been there, done that...)
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1985 CUCV M-1008 with 1028A1 Lsd front axle, bulletproof front windshield, ORD twin sticked NP205, custom GearVendors OD, ORD crossover with box bracing kit, front TuffCountry 4" leafs + ORD HD shackles, rear ORD 2.5 shackle flip + HD shackles, full greasable PU bushings, 1410 rear driveshaft conversion, 8-2-1 custom exhaust with single 3" truck muffler, 35x12.50R16.5 Bfg A/T on 8.25 black steelies, flat black paint.
I sell them, and have offered to help before, i have a line on new, not reman units, and there are a ton of diffrent models available, we just need to be sure which unit we are looking for
If we had the military part number form the alternator that could be switched and used on either side i could get a bunch of them for you guys easily
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1971 AM Genereal M35 W/W hardtop/heater/12v and 24v dual alternators, ir lights, cb, dome light, cig lighters, gps, am/fm cd, mp3 player, ether start kit
good info in this thread.....I had both original alternators rebuilt recently in my 1008...are they side specific when wiring in series?
They are identical, the left side puts out about 14 volts and charges the front battery and it also sends 14 volts to the isolated ground lug on the right alternator which then adds another 14 volts and it outputs about 28 volts to the rear battery - I may be wrong but I think that 28 volts charges both batterys since they are in series??
CUCV alternators - I'm still confused
