pbrstreetgang

I have tried to hang tough but I am going into my third month driving my CUCV daily without music and as much as I like to hear my diesel, I miss music on those long drives.

I don't know anything about automotive electrical work, I have no idea where to even begin, or what I need

I bought a tape player to run an Ipod on a tape adapter, and I know that I need to run power from the fuse panel somehow and to configure it to turn off when the key is off on the truck, but I dont know what to get to begin, what kind of wire to get, etc

I can figure out the speakers and the amplifier hook up, but I need help with beginning to get power to the unit

Tnrobocop

It's a pretty straight forward installation. I just did a Sony Explode CD player install about two weeks ago.

One wire for ground and one wire to the fuse block. There are four places to run a hot wire, but only three are what you want. One is a 24V, the other three are 12V. The one on the right is a constant hot, the two you can use on the left are only on when the ignition is hot.

You will have to cut out some of the original metal in the dash and some on the plastic dash cover for fitting around a radio. You will probably have to drill some holes and use sheet metal screws to hold the radio bracket in place.

pbrstreetgang

What kind of wire do I need to get and where on the fuse block are the three places where I can hook up to 12v

Can I also hook up cigarette adapters to these places and run multiples off of each connection on the fuse block

motormayhem

Here is how I did my tape deck. Ask if you have any questions. You might to invest in a voltmeter so you don't accidentally tap into 24v and burn up your electronics.

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Tnrobocop

In the CUCV FAQ thread there is a picture of the fuse block with labeling.

I used 16ga wire for my install.

If you want to hook up more stuff, I suggest running lines to a battery for the radio and use the fuse block for a cig lighter/accessory plug in.

Midnight Rider

I searched on here and used several other's installation notes to do my install. I ran 1 cable to a switched hot spot in the fuse box and 1 cable straight to the front battery for constant power. The fuse box diagram was very helpful, but I also used a multimeter just to be safe.

1985 M1009

Radioshop

As previous posters have indicated, buy a voltmeter. If you have any money left over, get a test light too. The test light is easier to use when looking for a ignition circuit. If you penetrate the firewall, use a grommet.

Doing two-way radios for 15 years, I would not advise going under the hood for your battery connection. For what you need, whatever is in the fuse block is fine. Also NAPA sells these nifty little devices that plug into the fuse block that allow you to add a circut. Fuse Tap, Tap Circuit w/ Dual Fuse Holder . I routinely use these in heavy use vehicles with great success. Make sure you have a good ground. Try to piggyback on an existing ground somewhere. Look for a bolt down ground wire and add your ring to it.

steve87

I don't know much about electrical systems. Can I run both my constant and ignition power cables to the battery with an inline fuse? Then run the ignition line through a toggle switch on the dash so that i can listen to the radio with out having the key in the ignition? Does any of that make sense? I'm not sure what I am doing.

Also, has anyone hooked up rear speakers or a sub and amp in a 1009, if so how did they do it?

Midnight Rider

Yes you could do that if you wanted.

I just have speakers installed in the rear of my 1009. I plan on putting in an amp and sub later. For rear speakers, just run your audio cables to the speakers in the back and plug them in. I ran my cables under the door plate sills and mounted the speakers using some brackets and longer bolts through the top. I'll try to find the pics.

I plan on running power cable up through the hole behind the passenger seat for the amp. I guess that hole was for the power for the radio that was used.

1985 M1009