I compiled the following and thought I would share.
Make sure you read theDIAGRAM.TXT file at the bottom. It is a listing of all the wires, colors and pin numbers for both the diagrams and the cluster/wiring harness. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachm...ed-diagram.txt
The wiring diagrams are located in Appendix F of the -20 Tech Manual.
***EDIT*** I added another picture, one with the fuse colors.
Without "opening" the pictures - If you right click on the picture and open it in a "Open Link in New Window" they are more readable.
__________________
"CUCVs - If it's electrical clean it. If it's rubber, replace it" - ralbelt
Last edited by Warthog; Yesterday at 18:23.
The Following 41 Users Say Thank You to Warthog For This Useful Post:
I appreciate the excellent info, particularly the "open in a new window" suggestion.
Bought a M1009 in October. It has several instrument panel problems. The work I've done so far leads me to believe dirty contacts may be the root cause at least some. e.g. idiot light not working - remove the bulb - check bulb continuity - is OK - plug bulb back in - bulb now works.
Voltmeter was dead - removed the gage - checked resistor - was OK - reinstalled voltmeter - started engine & voltmeter worked - shut it down but on next start the voltmeter was dead again.
Think I'll grind down an old ignition point file narrow enough to fit the female side of the pigtail connector female side and file them a bit. They're all kinda grungy.
Regards
Jim
__________________
He ain't wrong,
He's just different,
And his pride won't let him,
Do things to make you think he's right.
The pencil is a great tip ,also I like to use a product by permatex called Dielectric Grease... this will provide a better contact and keep the contacts from messing up again,,,,,
Warthog that text file is invaluable (and time saving). It just so happens that I have my dash on the kitchen table too! I was thinking about moving my GEN1 and GEN2 lights and was about to figure out the color scheme of the wires...thanks for saving me the time.
If you need those "button" sockets for the lights they are NAPA part # LS6501. I replaced one missing and one chewed up socket. I'm sure you already new the bulbs are 168 style (194's will work too).
Some rubbing compound buffed out most of the scratches out of the lens cover.
I also painted the front of the green instrument / printed circuit mounting panel gloss white to help reflect more light:
While it was out I also scrubbed 25 years of grime off the outer bezel and painted it with Dupli-Color TP70 Trim Paint. It turned out awesome...not too shiny...not too flat...more of a satin:
Can somebody tell me how to save the pic of the fuse block diagram? When i save it as normal it wont enlarge to view it... all pixels. I want to print one to put in the glove box.
Can somebody tell me how to save the pic of the fuse block diagram? When i save it as normal it wont enlarge to view it... all pixels. I want to print one to put in the glove box.
The diagram came from the TM 9-2320-289-20 manual. Chapter 4-12, Page 4-13 if you can't get it to save.
__________________
"CUCVs - If it's electrical clean it. If it's rubber, replace it" - ralbelt
CUCV-Instrument Cluster Decoded
