Bought it 1 week ago. Changed the fuel filter, and drove it the first week with no problems. Then all of a sudden it got parked over night and would not start the next morning. I figured it wouldn't start because it was cold - but have tried several times since to start and no dice. No smoke - except an occasional PERFECT SMOKE-RING comes out and it doesn't really smell like FLOODED Diesel out the exhaust.
I am pretty sure the cause of my problem is FUEL RELATED. Or rather, lack thereof. I DON'T THINK IT IS GETTING FUEL? I turn the key to the on position and hear the solenoid click on/off, the wait light turns off, then the solenoid goes on/off, on/off... I measured the orange wires at the solenoid and I have 23.7volts. I measured the voltage at 2 different glow plugs. BOTH at right about 22-24volts.
I can open the air bleed screw (or fuel drain whatever it is?) on the TOP of the fuel filter housing and fuel comes SQUIRTING OUT as the motor turns over.
When I changed the filter it went like this: Removed old filter, put on new filter. Cranked motor over for 10 secs. Walked around and opened the air bleed screw (the fuel drain etc...) and then when no more air and a steady stream of gas were coming out I closed it up. Within 30secs the motor fired back up - ran fine for 5 days after (about 150miles).
I think the problem is that I am not getting fuel to the motor. Can somebody suggest all the things that could have happened here?
Have you tried to 'fool' the fuel system by putting Cetane booster or diesel fuel down the intake? By doing that, you are bypassing any leaks ... see if the engine will run for a few seconds with diesel down the intake.
If you are ballsy, you can get the truck started by using Ether ... but you have to make sure your GP system is disconnected. You don't want your GPs on with ether in the cylinders.
I had similiar issues, where the truck wouldn't start without a shot of Cetane down the intake after sitting for 4+ hours. I thought I had a fuel air-leak or something. Turned out my GP system wasn't working at all. Totally tricked me another other folks - who shall remain anonymous . Even though you are getting volts to the GP themselves, they could be faulty. Have you changed them?
If you do the Ether thing, and it fires right up and stays running ... you may have a GP issue rather than a fuel issue.
Anyhoo, try the diesel and/or cetane booster down the intake to see if you can get it started/running on that. Hopefully that can give you an idea on what to do next.
CUCV: Won't Start; NO FUEL... How to bleed out air?
Ok, try all this, and report back...
Turn on your ignition, go to the injection pump. Unhook the large pink wire leading to the pump and reconnect. You should hear a click when you do this. This is the fuel solenoid clicking in and out.
You said the glow plug solenoid is clicking. how long is it staying on? it should be longer than 2-3 seconds cold
Grab a test light. Unhook each glow plug, connect the one end of the light to 12+, touch the other end to the terminal on the GP. If it lights, the glow plug is working. Do this for all 8
With someones help, have them crank the truck while you open the bleeder screw. You should get a steady stream of fuel
Report back on each item, and we can go from there.
__________________
[FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=2]Mike
1970 M35A2 W/W
1986 M1009
1952 M37[/SIZE][/FONT]
[quote]If you can read this, thank a teacher, If its in English, thank a veteran!!![/quote]
Turn on your ignition, go to the injection pump. Unhook the large pink wire leading to the pump and reconnect. You should hear a click when you do this. This is the fuel solenoid clicking in and out.
Is this the FADED RED wire that looks pink - the big fatty with the spade style attachement at the end? I also have a green wire running to my pump under the adjustment screw?
You said the glow plug solenoid is clicking. how long is it staying on? it should be longer than 2-3 seconds cold
Glow plug solenoid has about a 5-7 second interval first time in the morning. Then each additional time I turn the ignition on/off it stays on for 3-4 seconds...
Grab a test light. Unhook each glow plug, connect the one end of the light to 12+, touch the other end to the terminal on the GP. If it lights, the glow plug is working. Do this for all 8
So I clip the alligator clip on my glowplug (to the terminal) and then touch the light probe to the positive side of a battery? Since the batteries are wired in series won't that be 24volts going through the test light? Are there any TRUE 12v supplies under the hood I could go to instead of the battery?
With someones help, have them crank the truck while you open the bleeder screw. You should get a steady stream of fuel
10-4!!! TONS OF FUEL COMES OUT OF THE TOP DRAIN VALVE. Even after the car is shutdown, I can go over and quickly release and tighten the valve and it still has enough pressure to squirt fuel out...
Waiting for clarification on the Injector Pump lead and the Test light 24/12volt question prior to testing those items!
Is this the FADED RED wire that looks pink - the big fatty with the spade style attachement at the end? I also have a green wire running to my pump under the adjustment screw?
Yes, I think it is actually supposed to be pink. Its the big fat one. the green wire is the one that handles the high idle, and cold advance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MuddWeiser
Glow plug solenoid has about a 5-7 second interval first time in the morning. Then each additional time I turn the ignition on/off it stays on for 3-4 seconds...
Ok, that sounds a little shorter than mine, but I think it also depends on ambient temperature.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MuddWeiser
So I clip the alligator clip on my glowplug (to the terminal) and then touch the light probe to the positive side of a battery? Since the batteries are wired in series won't that be 24volts going through the test light? Are there any TRUE 12v supplies under the hood I could go to instead of the battery?
It will be easier to connect the alligator clip to the battery. Hook it on the positive terminal of the front battery. This will supply you with 12v.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MuddWeiser
10-4!!! TONS OF FUEL COMES OUT OF THE TOP DRAIN VALVE. Even after the car is shutdown, I can go over and quickly release and tighten the valve and it still has enough pressure to squirt fuel out...
Ok, just for clarification the top valve is the bleeder valve, its not a drain
__________________
[FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=2]Mike
1970 M35A2 W/W
1986 M1009
1952 M37[/SIZE][/FONT]
[quote]If you can read this, thank a teacher, If its in English, thank a veteran!!![/quote]
Turn on your ignition, go to the injection pump. Unhook the large pink wire leading to the pump and reconnect. You should hear a click when you do this. This is the fuel solenoid clicking in and out.
When the pink wire is unhooked I didn't hear it click - putting it back on it clicked. I repeated the procedure to double check - definite clicking. Sounds like a solenoid.
You said the glow plug solenoid is clicking. how long is it staying on? it should be longer than 2-3 seconds cold
Wait light stays on for 6 seconds then turns off - but the solenoid continues to cycle on/off for a good 15-20 seconds after the light turns off.
Grab a test light. Unhook each glow plug, connect the one end of the light to 12+, touch the other end to the terminal on the GP. If it lights, the glow plug is working. Do this for all 8
I couldn't get the wire pulled off the spade connector on the glowplug for fear of snapping the small spotweld. Do you have ot do anything(push a little tab, stick a screwdriver in a slot?) to the black connector or just pull it straight off? can I pull on the green wire or will it ruin the connector? I proceeded to do your test with the green wire still connected.
Don't have a test light. If I did the light would turn on. I have a voltmeter. I get 12.3 volts when doing your test.
With someones help, have them crank the truck while you open the bleeder screw. You should get a steady stream of fuel.
Fuel comes out the air bleed forcefully - (jet stream). IS THIS THE ONLY BLEED FOR THE WHOLE FUEL SYSTEM?
IS IT POSSIBLE MY FILTER IS CLOGGED?
What wire do I disconnect when I want to "prime" my fuel system after I swap in ANOTHER new filter?
Are there any other possibilities? I read somewhere the gas cap for gastank was a problem, I opened and closed mine. The seal is good.
I couldn't get the wire pulled off the spade connector on the glowplug for fear of snapping the small spotweld. Do you have ot do anything(push a little tab, stick a screwdriver in a slot?) to the black connector or just pull it straight off? can I pull on the green wire or will it ruin the connector? I proceeded to do your test with the green wire still connected.
Don't have a test light. If I did the light would turn on. I have a voltmeter. I get 12.3 volts when doing your test.
I suspect that with all the wires hooked up, this will give you false readings. For example, if you have 1 good plug, it could show that all of them are good with the wires all hooked up. Not sure about a locking tab on these, hopefully someone else can pipe up with this.
__________________
[FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=2]Mike
1970 M35A2 W/W
1986 M1009
1952 M37[/SIZE][/FONT]
[quote]If you can read this, thank a teacher, If its in English, thank a veteran!!![/quote]
If you have a volt meter set it to ohms and put one point on the glow plug spade and one point on the side of the plug "the part the socket goes over" it should read about 1.5 ohms. If you get no reading then its probably dead plug, I wouldn't worry about breaking the connector that attaches to the spade of the glow plug you can get new spade connectors at the autoparts store cut the old one off and crimp on a new one 1/4" should work for most plugs, just make sure its insulated.
OKAY FOR SURE I HAVE 2 DEAD GLOW PLUGS. I pulled the harness (all the glow plug feed lines) and tested each glowplug individually - only tested 4. 3 were dead - no light - the other 1 had 12.3 volts so I assumed it was good and that is what they all should read.
WHAT REPLACEMENT PLUGS DO I GET FOR BONE STOCK 6.2L ???? I get 24volts at the glow plug harness (the glowplug would get 24volts...)
I had a hunch it was more of a GP problem; your symptoms where just like mine only to find out that my GP's weren't even coming on.
I posted in your other listing on what plugs to buy.
CUCV: Won't Start; NO FUEL... How to bleed out air?
. Even though you are getting volts to the GP themselves, they could be faulty. Have you changed them?
