mcne2026

I have a 1985 M1009 that I want to add a little lift to. Currently running on OLD springs and new 33" tires. Plan to keep the tires for now, but will switch to at least 36" when the run out. So here is my plan.

1. ORD Steering Box Brace Kit.
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringkit.htm

2. ORD Rear Shackle Flip Kit & Super Shackles
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/hdREARshackles.htm

3. ORD UBolt Reversal Kit
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/uboltreversal.htm

4. Tuff Country 2" Lift Springs (Rear)
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/TuffCountry.htm

5. Tuff Country 6" HD Lift Springs (Front)
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/TuffCountry.htm

6. ORD Swaybar Disconnect/Correction Kit
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/swaybarkit.htm

7. ORD Extended Braided Stainless Brake Lines
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/braidedbrakelines.htm

8. Rancho RS9000 Shocks all around

I will also get a Drop Pitman Arm to correct steering and I think I will need a kit to drop the mounting for the TCase (Correct???)

The way I figured it, the Rear Shackle Flip gives me 4" of lift and the 2" rear springs brings it up to a total of 6" lift in the rear. Then the 6" springs up front levels it out to 6" all around. I went with the Rancho's because I can adjust the stiffness.

My goal is to build this up to something that can drive 800+ miles on the highway and hit the trails at my destination. So, onroad safety and comfort are a major concern, but I don't want to limit my offroad ability.

Did I figure this all out correctly? Does it make sense to you? What would you do different or what am I missing?

wyliek

shouldnt need #3
sounds expensive....there are cheaper options for brakelines, shackle flip braket DIY4x.com

if your goina do all that you should put a 2x steering box in and set up cross-over steering

hndrsonj

I'd just get the 6 inch kit with all 4 leaf springs. I think you will regret it later if you don't. (that is what I did with my 1/2 ton) and I regretted it till the day I sold it.

mangus580

I agree with hndrsonj. I used front springs and rear blocks on my 1009.... and it just doesnt match right. (I bought the kit for a prior truck that didnt need blocks). Really wish I had done it differently, but I could only do what $ allowed.

Mike
Steel Soldiers Support Staff
1970 M35A2 W/W
1986 M1009
1952 M37

BigJay

no no, He's doing fine. Shackle flip is NOT equal to lift blocks. By using the shackle flip and 2" springs he'll get the ride height he wants with softer springs and more flex. I also think you should add crossover steering. And there are cheaper ways to do it, but the stuff you looked at is nice high quality stuff by all accounts and much of it is on my own wish list.

-Jay

Recovry4x4

I would do the crossover as well. Also as one poster said, you don't need the ubolt reversal kit. Dropping the transfer case will probably be a must on the short blazer but getting the correct angles on the rear drivehaft to cancel out vibration will probably not be possible. You may also need to grind the stops on the front driveshaft CV joint to obtain the angle. 6" suspension is kinda high for a blazer but it can be done and has been thousands of times.

Mr Minimum Bid.

M108 M1008
M35A2C M105A2 (X3)
M101A3 M116A2
M116A3

This Steel Soldier Honors the Living Memory of David Frankenhauser, 1954-2009.
May you Sail in the Grace of Our Lord, Chaplain!

“The earnest prayer of a righteous person has great power and produces wonderful results.” James 5:16.

BigJay

This is one of my favorite trucks I've seen on the 'net. It's sort of what I have in mind for my own truck. This truck has 52" springs up front, 56" springs out back and a shackle flip in the back, that adds up to basically a 4-5" lift total. He's running 42"s with a LOT of fender cutting.

-Jay

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BKinzey

You can't go wrong with ORD. DIY4x is good stuff as well. You can look around and piece together what you want cheaper but if you buy it all at once ORD may give you a discount.

My suggestion is on the Rancho 9000s. Really consider how willing you are going to be to get out turn the knobs. You could buy the in cab adjuster $$$ or if you think you won't be adjusting them buy Billstiens. A much better shock for about the same price.

Rogue American, Media Mercenary

Currently building up a M1009.

mcne2026

I was planning on the remote adjuster thingy for the Rancho's. I realize that Bilstein is a much better shock, but they don't offer anything that will do what the Rancho does. I want to drive this thing on the highway 600 to 800 miles and then hit the trails. I like ho Rancho sells one shock that is good for both.

ORD is a little high and I know it could be had for less, but getting it all from them gives me a good tech line to call when I bugger it up.

I know it is not apples to apples, but I have a '74 Blazer that is lifted higher than I plan to take this and it drives just fine. It took some work and some $$$ but with sway bars, sway bar relocation kits, shackle flips, SOA , etc... we got a decent road ride out of it.

flewbyu

Gonna need to stretch rear driveshaft about 3". Still gonna vibrate. May have to lower T case cross member and reset rear end to raise differential to eliminate vibration. Just installed 6" all spring kit on mine...