Installing a Amp for speakers in CUCV! - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite

SuperchargedRS · 11-23-2006, 22:08

I am getting ready to install a sound system in my CUCV, I am going to be using a 500wat Amp for the speakers (4 channel), where is the best place to tap into to, where I can get 60amps, is there anywhere on the power block on the fire wall or maybe the old military radio power cables???

Where is the best place to get the power for this amp?

Thanks,
-SuperchargedRS

SuperchargedRS · 11-23-2006, 22:27

Oh yea this IS a CIVVY amp so it is not 24v.

It's a Infinity Reference 7541A
» 4-channel car amplifier
» 111 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (139 watts x 4 at 2 ohms)
» 278 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
» front and rear variable high-/low-pass filters (32-320 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
» variable bass boost (0-12 dB at 50 Hz)
» MOSFET power supplies
» CEA-2006 compliant
» Tri-way capable (Tri-Way Crossover required)
» preamp- and speaker-level inputs
» preamp outputs
» 8-gauge power and ground leads with a 60A fuse recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
» fuse rating: 30A x 2
» 16-3/8"W x 2-11/16"H x 12-1/8"D

wallew · 11-24-2006, 00:32

sdhfhdshsddhs

BKinzey · 11-24-2006, 01:01

You've changed to 12v but do you still have the second Alt? The stock alts are rated at 60 Amps so you may want to throw that second alt back on

Basically you want to either get a larger alt or a separate power system for your stereo.

I'm probably going to go with a bigger alternator because a second power system would need it's own battery and 3 batteries under the hood takes up too much real estate.

The alternator I'm looking at is a CS144 which has a high output at idle and tops out at 140 amps. Cheap and prolific

There will be some reconfiguring but I think it's doable. I've got more info but it's a cut & paste mess so if you want to look into it Google: CS144 alternator and I'm sure you will find plenty of info

CUCVFAN · 11-24-2006, 10:36

The stock CUCV alternators are rated at 100 amps, so they have plenty of power. The best place to pull your 12V power is the junction block on the firewall just to the left (looking at the firewall) of the glow plug relay. If you find that there's not enough power, then you might upgrade the 12V (driver's side alternator) as suggested. But that amp won't draw anywhere near 60 amps unless you are really driving it hard.

bassplayer88 · 11-24-2006, 11:26

The alt are rated at 100Amps , ("Marketing label", they will produce 100Amps for a short time , and high amperage usage of 60+amps will burn the alts out).. If your looking a 500w amp at 12v = 500/12 = 41.6 amps .. I currently have x2 m1009's , x1 is a 1 off genset in the build and the other will be a boonie buggie play toy. Personally, I convert all 24v to x2 separate 12v systems .. Search for the conversion url.. Why .. 1) I have no historic value for these so the 24v is useless. 2) 12v starter is $100.00+ cheaper than finding the 24v starter. 3) second alt on a independent 12v circuit allows the use of winches/pumps/exterior lights, kicking stereo amps

with out the primary circuit (starter/motor/glow plugs) being effected .
Basically I would suggest the following: If you bought your m1009 due to its military history , then keep it the way it is 24v no stereo .. If you bought it due to a good deal, going to use it as an IE play toy, or even a daily driver, convert to 12v, replace the glow plugs with self regulating plugs , configure the glow plug controller to be manual.. and you just removed the majority of the problematic issue with the m1009.. Just my 2 cents

mangus580 · 11-24-2006, 14:33

Actually the 100 amp alt's in the CUCV's were rated for 100amps for longer periods than most the civvy models.

Run you wire all the way to the front battery ALWAYS when doing anything that requries large amounts of power. The engineers at GM did not design any of the existing wiring to carry any additional load. Do not use the junction box on the firewall, as it does not have enough power to handle what you want.

I have a 240 watt sherwood in mine, and this is how I have wired it. You will find most 'good' professional installers will power the amp from the battery direct.

SuperchargedRS · 11-24-2006, 18:21

So run the Amp off the first batt. (Just like in a normal auto install).

Is there any certain place I should hook my power for my deck???

Thanks,

CUCVFAN · 11-25-2006, 00:55

Good point. Even though you will probably go deaf if you listen at a level that uses enough power to overload the stock wiring to the junction block, I have always powered my stereo equipment from the battery directly as well. For casual listening, the junction block will provide enough power, but it sounds like you are interested in more than casual listening.

gimpyrobb · 11-25-2006, 01:14

Actually, as long as your ears don't ring after listening to the stereo, you will not have any hearing loss. I have been into high power audio for many years and have had no hearing loss. It takes alot of power to recreate the lower rangs of the audio spectrum which will not affect your hearing at all. Most audible information is in the midrange area which is easy to recreate, the low end is what gets drowned out so you need more power in that area.