Crewcab plan - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite

jeli · 08-11-2007, 00:46

Ever since getting the MV bug I've wanted to do a crewcab. I have four kids so anything I do will be enjoyed more if everyone can participate. My first GL purchase was a new cab tub never put into service. It managed to get caught in both major snow storms last December on it's voyage from California to MN. The rockers and cab corners are banged up but nothing a little bondo won't fix.

I've finally had a plan that seems doable for me. I am not a body man and am not good at finish work so it has to be simple yet end up looking good. I don't want to cut the existing cab because I will for sure screw something up and will end up needing a new cab just to make it original.

The plan:
Cut the second cab at the mark shown in the pic. The widest part of the cab is 70". The cut mark is 62 1/2" I will widen the front and build a 1 1/2" square tube frame for the front of the cab to strengthen it. The other pic shows the reinforcing bars on the back of the cab. A piece of 11 ga sheetmetal will be mounted to the back of the first cab using longer bolts through these holes. The sheetmetal will also be bolted/welded to the 1 1/2" frame in the second cab. The sheetmetal will have a 90 degree bend on the sides with the extra running forward. The edge will end at the edge of the door jamb on the front cab. This will fill in the gap between the cab's. I'm not worried about finishing the metal at these joints. The existing rear cab bracket will stay in place and the second cab firewall fabbed around it. A second cab bracket and rubber bumpers underneath will be needed. I have a hard top which may be used to make a full top. Not sure and I'm not worried about figuring this out. By hanging the cab this way I can leave the front cab intact including the top over the winter. I don't have door for the rear cab so the final work won't get done until next season.

The spare tire carrier can stay but the pioneer kit goes. A sheetmetal step/spare tire cover can be done later. The bed will end up at 8'6" outside dimension. I'm concerned the interaxle tire might hit the cab so next summer's project will also be to push the rear's back 18". Someone did that recently and it will allow for additional clearance, center the tires in relation to the bed, and give me enough room for taller tires some day.

Let me know what you think and if I missed anything.

gimpyrobb · 08-11-2007, 03:24

Your logic sounds solid so far, though alot can come up in execution. Good luck, it sounds like a neat project.

m-35tom · 08-12-2007, 17:47

it's not gonna look that good. sorry but thats my opinion. you need to slice the front cab down just behind the rear door pillar and cut the doner cab just in front of the front door pillar and then split the donor cab so you can widen the front of it to match the width of the front cab. this will leave the inside open front to rear. also you will get into problems with too many cab mounts since the frame does move a little (twist) probably a little bit of subframe on the double cab with just 3 mounting points like the original.

superburban · 08-17-2007, 14:02

This is a great topic. I have been kicking around the notion of "crew-cabbing" my deuce (when I buy it).

Does anyone else have pics of a build of this kind?

jeli · 08-17-2007, 14:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by m-35tom

it's not gonna look that good. sorry but thats my opinion. you need to slice the front cab down just behind the rear door pillar and cut the doner cab just in front of the front door pillar and then split the donor cab so you can widen the front of it to match the width of the front cab. this will leave the inside open front to rear. also you will get into problems with too many cab mounts since the frame does move a little (twist) probably a little bit of subframe on the double cab with just 3 mounting points like the original.

That might look better but I want a crew cab not extended cab. Look at where the seats sit now. They are tight against the back of the cab. If I cut the donor cab where I chalked in the picture I'm right about where the floor pan angles up. That by it'sself is cutting down leg room in the back. If I slid that up to the back of the front door I've lost another 6" give or take. I also don't plan on heavy off roading so I'm not too concerned with frame twist. I've also toyed with removing the rear cab mount with springs, tying the two cabs together with square tubing underneath, and finding a semi air ride cab setup to sling the whole cab on. The beauty is if it doesn't work I haven't ruined my original cab.

Between school and sports starting soon for the kids and the days getting shorter I'll be happy to get the donor cab cut and the front widened. I don't want to mess with the bed until spring.

clinto · 08-17-2007, 15:01

Try some of these threads for pics of at least 2 projects:

http://steelsoldiers.com/index.php?n...pic&t=5084

http://steelsoldiers.com/index.php?n...ic&t=12696

http://steelsoldiers.com/index.php?n...pic&t=2894

http://steelsoldiers.com/index.php?n...pic&t=2431

rmgill · 08-23-2007, 21:20

I'd cut it just forwards of the kick vent point and make up a blanking panel to go up higher. Either a solid panel there or a small window would work. Bench seats in back and a pair of spring rides in front.

hot rod deuce · 08-24-2007, 18:22

AHHH NOOO!!!!!!!! I GOTTA HURRY!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This crew cab thing finished or it will be out dated before I get it done. These dang tanks are getting me side tracked!

Hey jeli, use 3x3 square tube for the frame to build on 1 1/2 might get too light these things gt HEAVY.
The two M-16's and the Barret 50 add alot of weight to mine though.