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Old 02-06-2010, 21:48   #1 (permalink)
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Default Hemmt Wheel Questions

I am picking up a set of Un-Cut HEMMT wheels on Mon and want some advice from the GURU's around here. I have access to a water jet machine and have a new set of centers being made right now. What I need to know is. Where do I cut on the stock HEMMT wheels to remove the old bolt pattern. Also when I install the new centers how are you making sure they are exactly center. And not going to wobble. Thanks.
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Old 02-06-2010, 21:53   #2 (permalink)
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YOu need to wait till you get your centers and go off their measurements.
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Old 02-06-2010, 23:00   #3 (permalink)
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My HEMTT wheels are at the machine shop right now getting worked up. He rough cut them out with a torch and then used a lathe to make a nice clean and true hole. also used the lathe to make the new plates. I can get some pics of the finished product when I pick them up this week.
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Old 02-06-2010, 23:21   #4 (permalink)
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A friend of mine made a step in both the center and wheel on a lathe. As I recall, he had about .008" runout after welding, WAY better than stock.
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Old 02-09-2010, 11:32   #5 (permalink)
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Here are some pictures of the wheels and tires I picked up from 100dollarman yesterday. mark is a great guy to deal with.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg HEMMT Wheels.jpg (49.5 KB, 91 views)
File Type: jpg HEMMT Wheels4.jpg (47.8 KB, 97 views)
File Type: jpg HEMMT Wheels3.jpg (61.9 KB, 93 views)
File Type: jpg HEMMT Wheels2.jpg (61.2 KB, 79 views)
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Old 02-18-2010, 23:23   #6 (permalink)
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what about having holes drilled in the new hub plate for the bolt pattern of the beadlock and sandwhiching it? you would still have to cut out the 10 lug pattern, but no welding required..
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Mine sounds like a wash machine full of ball pein hammers with metal handles when cold, then just noisy when warm. Shifts at about 25 and 40.
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Old 02-19-2010, 00:18   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonka tester View Post
what about having holes drilled in the new hub plate for the bolt pattern of the beadlock and sandwhiching it? you would still have to cut out the 10 lug pattern, but no welding required..
That would only work in a crappy mid-western state!

BWAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

Just kidding. I think it would allow for too much play, but maybe not. You would also have to find a BUNCH of longer studs to hold each rim together. Lots O money right there.

Edit: that wouldn't work as it would keep the air tight surfaces apart.
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Old 02-19-2010, 07:24   #8 (permalink)
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no not between the two halves, behind them... the first thing that the studs would go through
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Mine sounds like a wash machine full of ball pein hammers with metal handles when cold, then just noisy when warm. Shifts at about 25 and 40.
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:50   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
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no not between the two halves, behind them... the first thing that the studs would go through
How would the wheel hold to this plate?

Either way, I don't think sandwiching anything in place of welding something when it comes to wheels on a 13,000lb+ truck is a good idea.
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SOLD: 1966 Kaiser M35a2 W/W, modified HEMTT wheels, and michelin 46" tires

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Old 02-19-2010, 11:26   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonka tester View Post
no not between the two halves, behind them... the first thing that the studs would go through
you would still have to cut out the 10 lug pattern to get the hub through the center, all that idea eliminates is the need for welding which in my opinion has a much better looking finished product and a ton cheaper than sourcing longer wheel lock studs to hold it all together.
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