I've seached all the info i can on the site and one question(for me anyway)remains unanswered-do you swap the bearings and races or are they the same? I'm just trying to get all the info i can before i get started.I've been checking out the site and you all seem like a great bunch and a alot of help to each other. Thanks for suffering the fool of the new guy!
Normally, the races go with the bearings (cones?), but if they are used very little and not worn, leave the races in, I did....guess I'll go to MV **** for that one.
Here is more info and images that may have been out of reach for you:
Avatar: XM757 in OK prepared for 1,000 mile trip home. Part of 6,000 mile journey in 2006.
1968 M49A2C modified with 1960 M756A2 truck bed and 1975 HIAB 765A knuckleboom, exhaust brake, VIC-1 and more.
1969 Ford XM757 8x8, 5-ton Pershing 1A truck tractor...the "improved MV".
"Some things can't be made better, just differently......a lot of things actually"
I probabaly did'nt phrase my question right(sorry)are the inner and outer bearings and races the same size?or do you have to swap them around with the hub?
They are the same. That's why I was able to leave them in.
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Bjorn
MEP-018A (needs new generator head)
Avatar: XM757 in OK prepared for 1,000 mile trip home. Part of 6,000 mile journey in 2006.
1968 M49A2C modified with 1960 M756A2 truck bed and 1975 HIAB 765A knuckleboom, exhaust brake, VIC-1 and more.
1969 Ford XM757 8x8, 5-ton Pershing 1A truck tractor...the "improved MV".
"Some things can't be made better, just differently......a lot of things actually"
Bad Karma,
I'll give you a tip given to me by one of our other members who is a diesel mechanic and works for a transportation company and I've taken to calling him 'The Deuce Doctor'. RandyLBarnes showed me a trick when it came to buttoning it all back up.
When you get to the point where you've flipped the hubs and are about to put the axle shaft/hub front back in place and are tightening the axle nut, tighten it down really hard. THIS will seat the bearing properly. THEN loosen the nut and retighten it so that is hand tight. THEN one quarter turn past that.
AND DON'T LOSE the small cork piece that goes in the keyway. It keeps the axle end from leaking. After flipping my hubs, the first one I did I MIGHT not have tightened the axle nut tight enough. Or I may have NOT put the little cork piece back in properly. The result is that the first hub I flipped is currently leaking a small amount of oil.
THE UP SIDE is that I've now taken apart FOUR hubs and flipped them all. ONLY one of them is leaking slightly. So I now know how to do it correctly.
IF you have any questions or problems, email me and I'll help if I can.
And it's REALLY no big deal, honest. EVERYTHING is just way larger. And you need to inspect the seals and bearings as they come out and as you put them back in to make sure they are in good shape. I didn't replace my seals, as it wasn't necessary. I did replace the hub gaskets, but they were way cheap at less than $2 each from Saturn.
And BJORN wrote an EXCELLENT technical article WITH PICTURES that gave me the fortitude to tackle this task. While at first it seemed impossible, it really is pretty simple. And I've been working on cars, trucks and bikes for thirty five years.
Wallew,thanks for the info it will help ease the confusion.I'm lucky that i only have to flip two hubs(bobed M109A2)I've owned and worked on M-37s for twenty years,but have never had anything in the 2 1/2 ton series. I took this truck in on a trade for a '51 M-37 and really don't have the reference material to fall back on like i do for the 3/4ton. The 3/4ton's have diff. size inner/outer bearings that's what had me thinkin' a little backwards. Thanks again,Jon.
I need t clear this up a little bit. The inner and outer bearings are different. Going from memory one is a 3994 and the other a 392. The outer dimensions are the same its only the center bore that is different. The bearing races are the same. The net effect of this is if you want to keep the same bearing with the same race, you will need to swap races from side to side in each hub. Since the races are the exact same, you can opt to just filp the hub. The inner bearing (larger bore) will still be the inner bearing but it will be riding in the former outer race. As Bjorn said, he did this and had no problems. I've done it too without problems. Bearing mnufacturers reccomend that the bearing and race remain a pair.
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So far pretty straight forward,one problem is that the inner bearing and seal don't want to come off the spindle. Am i just being too gentle with it or am i missing something? The bearing is not seized to the spindle it just does'nt want to come off,any suggestions?
CAREFULLY tap with a 4 oz hammer and a nylon punch. BE REALLY REALLY CAREFUL to not damage them. They should literally slide off.
Hopefully they have not 'welded' themselves to spindle due to really old grease/oil. I have seen that happen in OTHER trucks. Maybe you could use some mineral oil or WD40 sprayed onto the spindle where it's locking up. I don't normally use WD40 for ANYTHING but a cleaning solvent, for which it works quite well. I use PROLONG as a lubricant on items that need to be sprayed to lube. Door hinges come to mind.
My bearings literally slid right off with no pressure applied. And they looked brand new.
Hub flip info needed.
