So I've hung the second fuel tank and am now working on the plumbing and wiring. I've been stumped for the past few days on the issue of powering the fuel pumps alternatingly. I initially thought to power them off the mains from the cab and split the feed to the right side pump so I could power the left pump instead via a DPDT switch. But short of cutting into the wiring harness at the cab under the dash (not easy to do there either) I'm stuck having to install a relay at the right side fuel tank. This could be simple though because I can easily run a single throw switch in the cab and have it's feed just activate the left side pump and Only cut the power lead at the RH fuel tank. I might be able to take apart the fitting and modify it there though I'll probably put a pair of packard connectors in so it can be reverted back to normal easily.
Anyhow, this needs a relay. I want one that's weather proof and has a DPDT setting. I'll power one side to switch to the left side fuel tank but otherwise it'll power the right side fuel tank absent switch power.
The 2nd fuel gauge is mounted in my dash nicely and I relocated the high beam lamp and added a splitter for the power to the second fuel gauge off of the "spider" harness.
Drilling the frame wasn't too hard. I REALLY like the real titanium coated bits. Run them at high speed with plenty of oil and pressure on the drill and they cut nicely.
I'm going to intercept the fuel supply and return lines at the right side of the frame rail near the right hand fuel tank and run either copper lines from those points and then to rubber lines to the cab fuel selector switch which will go next to the parking brake. I'm waiting on Memphis Equipment to send that. The vent is going to get combined with the other 3/16" tube vent on the right side frame rail and go forwards to the main 3/8" vent tube that runs to the road draft tube. The nice thing about my tubing mod is it'll be easily converted back as well with a couple of inverted flare connectors. Basically I'm going to cut the existing tubes, install flare nuts, install some 90° bends and then run the 4 lines to the valve at the left side of the cab. It'll take some extra fittings but it won't need a lot of tubing which isn't cheap.
So, anyone have any advice on relays. I can't seem to find a good example of a 24vdc capable relay that'll have a DPDT configuration that's not $$$$ and I know will work in the weather. Bjorn, how much did your relay's cost? I suppose I could get a more standard relay and put that inside a small weatherproof project box.
Don't worry, I'll get pictures when it's all done.
__________________
Ryan Gill
15 Recce Re-enacting Group
1943 Humber Mk IV Armoured Car
1947 Jeep CJ2A basket case
1960 Daimler Ferret
1972 AM General M35A2
x2 M514 1Ton2Wheel Trailer
Ryan, these may work for you. Just read the spec and install them accordingly.
I like to use mil spec relays, which are hermetically sealed, typically made by Leach or Cutler Hammer. Do a search. About $12-15 ea.
Avatar: XM757 in OK prepared for 1,000 mile trip home. Part of 6,000 mile journey in 2006.
1968 M49A2C modified with 1960 M756A2 truck bed and 1975 HIAB 765A knuckleboom, exhaust brake, VIC-1 and more.
1969 Ford XM757 8x8, 5-ton Pershing 1A truck tractor...the "improved MV".
"Some things can't be made better, just differently......a lot of things actually"
Not really. They're pretty straightforward in installation. 4 bolts per "L". They're tricky to install as the bolt holes have to be done carefully so you don't cut wires or worse puncture fuel/brake/air lines which run on the inside of that frame rail. 3/8" bolts are used, grade 8. I used a slightly oversize drill so I could have a little bit of wiggle room.
__________________
Ryan Gill
15 Recce Re-enacting Group
1943 Humber Mk IV Armoured Car
1947 Jeep CJ2A basket case
1960 Daimler Ferret
1972 AM General M35A2
x2 M514 1Ton2Wheel Trailer
I'd be inclined to run a lne across the truck and use the left tank to refill the right tank while running. Might be a simpler installation but thats just my opinion.
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3 Trucks
4 Trailers
This Steel Soldier Honors the Living Memory of David Frankenhauser, 1954-2009.
May you Sail in the Grace of Our Lord, Chaplain!
“The earnest prayer of a righteous person has great power and produces wonderful results.” James 5:16.
Perhaps, but with two separate systems, he has the option of running different fuels in the future. Biodiesel or veggie oil....
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Bjorn
MEP-018A (needs new generator head)
Avatar: XM757 in OK prepared for 1,000 mile trip home. Part of 6,000 mile journey in 2006.
1968 M49A2C modified with 1960 M756A2 truck bed and 1975 HIAB 765A knuckleboom, exhaust brake, VIC-1 and more.
1969 Ford XM757 8x8, 5-ton Pershing 1A truck tractor...the "improved MV".
"Some things can't be made better, just differently......a lot of things actually"
I'm going to go with two seperate systems because lets say the right tank gets puntured then all your fuel from the left would be wasted (if you run from left to right) or you loss the right pump you would still have the left. but then again im 16 what do I know.
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SPC Harbold, Jason
FT. Stewart, Ga. 91B10-HET mechanic
1970 M35A2-my other truck
2004 Chevy K2500HD 6.6L Duramax-my truck
AH1955's son
The plan is for the capability to run alternate fuels from the left side tank. I'm going to hopefully add either a heating coil like Bjorn or a small heat exchanger (radiator) to the inside of the tank. Though coil of tubing would be easier.
Still, 110 gallons of fuel will make for more range than my butt can handle.
__________________
Ryan Gill
15 Recce Re-enacting Group
1943 Humber Mk IV Armoured Car
1947 Jeep CJ2A basket case
1960 Daimler Ferret
1972 AM General M35A2
x2 M514 1Ton2Wheel Trailer