So, I am now focussing my attention on putting the new brakes on the deuce. I just got a quote to get some new radials on the beast, and now I'm looking for ideas for the brakes.
I have the option to do one of to things:
1. Pull out the stock brakes ENTIRELY and just run completely air-driven brakes, including a new pedal and totally new lines to Front and rear circuits.
Pros -
· already balanced, airflow is known etc.
· very easy "engineering"
· pedal will likely be butter smooth to work
Cons -
· NO brakes when air system is depressurized
· lose air to the trailer connection (not a big deal for me)
· have to install many more air lines and retrofit old air connections where stock master currently is
2. Use only ONE of my new air packs, and drive it off of the stock master cylinder, splitting the air output of the stock MC to drive both the original air pack, as well as to the new air pack. The new air pack would drive the rear circuit, and the existing would probably be repurposed to the front only.
Pros
· Keep the unassisted brakes when air is low, even if only one circuit (this is why I'm thinking of keeping the stock master, with the failsafe, on the front brakes)
· Keep trailer brakes
· Keep stock pedal
Cons
· Tougher to "engineer"
· Who knows how this will work, unknown how the balance will pan out, if the air will be apportioned correctly by the stock master cylinder to drive 2 air backs.
·
Each system has its benefits. Has anyone done a retrofit like this before? I'm really torn on what's going to be easier and ultimately most advantageous. I'm leaning towards simply throwing another air pack on for the rear brakes, and just running the stock up to the front.
My goal is basically two fold:
· to split up the singlehydraulic circuit into two, for some redundancy and safety
-and-
· to increase braking power by pushing more fluid
Thoughts? Yeah, I know I'm trying to teach another polar bear to tapdance.
Cheers
Bob
__________________
Old Build:
1968 M35A2, repowered with Cat 3208T and Spicer 6855 .695 OD - mostly* sold
Ross Hydrapower steering - still available
Next build - Cummins 6CT, RTOO-14613, M35a2 Tcase, 5 ton axles, Arvin Meritor 16.5x7 Q series brakes, M35a2 sheetmetal*, 14.00x20 Michelin XL's on HEMTT wheels.
Status: Runs and drives, needs front driveshaft.
I have heard that trying to teach a pig to fly doesn't work, it is a waste of time, and it really annoys the pig! <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_wink.gif" alt="Wink">.......Polar bears are far more dangerous to mess with! <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_dead.gif" alt="Dead">
I am sure that someone out there has experience with the brake question! <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_help.gif" alt="Help">
I'm not sure what I'm talking about so forgive me, but I had an idea to take a spare master cylinder, put it side by side with the stock one, modify the linkage to operate both of them and have the front drive the front brakes and the rear drive the rear brakes. I'm not sure if that's what you had in mind, but is it possible as well?
OK, the truck I just listed for a friend has the factory split system. I need to take a closer look at it to see how brake bias was obtained. It has dual airpacks on the frame. This is still not a failsafe system as long as it has one mastercylinder. If that line between the MC and either airpack goes then so do the brakes. Next time I go to Ft Laud, I'll research the brakes on that other truck.
__________________
3 Trucks
4 Trailers
This Steel Soldier Honors the Living Memory of David Frankenhauser, 1954-2009.
May you Sail in the Grace of Our Lord, Chaplain!
“The earnest prayer of a righteous person has great power and produces wonderful results.” James 5:16.
Here's another thought if you could fit it in. Use 2 masters and 2 airpacks spliting the system front and rear. You could easily use a bias link between the masters and adjust bias by moving the linkage closer to one or the other MC. Kinda like the CNC systems that alot of sandrails use.
__________________
3 Trucks
4 Trailers
This Steel Soldier Honors the Living Memory of David Frankenhauser, 1954-2009.
May you Sail in the Grace of Our Lord, Chaplain!
“The earnest prayer of a righteous person has great power and produces wonderful results.” James 5:16.
1. I've made my own disk brake systems for the deuce axles. I don't need Daniel at USA 6x6 to source out any for me.
2. The idea of using 2 stock M/c's, with physical linkages to run the brakes is HELLACIOUS. Linkage systems, as you know, suck to design. I am loathe to design and then build something that would include bias. Also, the stock air connections off the master cylinder are a bear. You know this, right? about 4 lines come off the output of the stock MC. Ouch.
3. I am leaning towards just adding another air pack, just inside of the stock one, to just push fluid to the rear. I think I could do this in a saturday (assuming I had all the correct fittings). I think it will also be the easiest to undo if it doesn't work.
Cheers
Bob
__________________
Old Build:
1968 M35A2, repowered with Cat 3208T and Spicer 6855 .695 OD - mostly* sold
Ross Hydrapower steering - still available
Next build - Cummins 6CT, RTOO-14613, M35a2 Tcase, 5 ton axles, Arvin Meritor 16.5x7 Q series brakes, M35a2 sheetmetal*, 14.00x20 Michelin XL's on HEMTT wheels.
Status: Runs and drives, needs front driveshaft.
Wait a sec! There is only one hydraulic line that comes off the master to the airpack. One were to mount 2 masters, side by side you would only need shaft that connects the 2 together then the pedal applies pressure on that shaft. While not as simple as I make it sound, not a tough job either. By simply changing where on that shaft the brake pedal linkage is, you change the bias. Hmm!
__________________
3 Trucks
4 Trailers
This Steel Soldier Honors the Living Memory of David Frankenhauser, 1954-2009.
May you Sail in the Grace of Our Lord, Chaplain!
“The earnest prayer of a righteous person has great power and produces wonderful results.” James 5:16.
Wait a sec! There is only one hydraulic line that comes off the master to the airpack. One were to mount 2 masters, side by side you would only need shaft that connects the 2 together then the pedal applies pressure on that shaft. While not as simple as I make it sound, not a tough job either. By simply changing where on that shaft the brake pedal linkage is, you change the bias. Hmm!
just thinking about it, the easiest would be over/under, that way the shaft will apply greater leverage and more stroke to the bottom cylinder, that will be whichever one you want more pressure to, it would be easier than side by side I'd think.
You'd just need to take whichever lines out of the cylinder that hook to the rear brakes, and stick those in one, and the front lines in the other, no?
Wait a sec! There is only one hydraulic line that comes off the master to the airpack. One were to mount 2 masters, side by side you would only need shaft that connects the 2 together then the pedal applies pressure on that shaft. While not as simple as I make it sound, not a tough job either. By simply changing where on that shaft the brake pedal linkage is, you change the bias. Hmm!
For sure, I totally understand. However, the necessary lateral distance between the two setups would mean that I'd be so hosed for space. I could make a VERY long connector rod with a pivot on the other frame rail and adjust bias this way, but serious pita.
Plus, I have the other pure air pack, and to do two stock setups, I'm looking at some bucks to purchase the
Monsterman, there's no room to over/under two stock setups.
I think it will be easiest to just split the air lines and run that seperate air pack's hydro output to the rear. Time to start gathering parts!
Cheers
Bob
__________________
Old Build:
1968 M35A2, repowered with Cat 3208T and Spicer 6855 .695 OD - mostly* sold
Ross Hydrapower steering - still available
Next build - Cummins 6CT, RTOO-14613, M35a2 Tcase, 5 ton axles, Arvin Meritor 16.5x7 Q series brakes, M35a2 sheetmetal*, 14.00x20 Michelin XL's on HEMTT wheels.
Status: Runs and drives, needs front driveshaft.
