rmgill

Ok, I've got a replacement transmission with my deuce. They're both up in Virginia. I'm in Atlanta. What sorts of things do I want to have on hand to do the swap and what should I have on hand while I'm doing the transmission swap?

Things like rear main seal, clutch, throw out bearings, etc? What else? I don't know if the clutch is ready to be replaced or not but most of the recent miles have been LONG distance driving on highways with little shifting vs around town work.

Also, from looking at other posts on tranny swaps, a hoist through the door seems to be the best way. Does anyone have any opinions on tricks?

From perusing the manual and threads I gather that the basic procedure is:

1. pull center sheet metal and remove shifter
2. Remove transmission -> Transfer case drive shaft AND PTO Drive Shaft and control linkage
3. Support transmission, loosen bolts and shift rearwards clear of the bell housing
4. Lower transmission.

Ryan Gill
15 Recce Re-enacting Group

1943 Humber Mk IV Armoured Car
1947 Jeep CJ2A basket case
1960 Daimler Ferret
1972 AM General M35A2
x2 M514 1Ton2Wheel Trailer

Scrounger

You didn’t post where you are doing the transmission R&R whether in Richmond or Atlanta. Besides the usual tools, rags, oil, cleaning things if you have access to air it will speed things up. I like using a transmission jack for when I have to R&R a transmission. The first thing to do is chock the wheels of the truck so it won’t roll.
Take out the floor pan and remove the top bell housing bolts while your there. Remove the front shaft(s) from the transfer case and hold them out of the way with tie wire or bungee cords. Remove the various linkages. Remove the bolts that connect the jackshaft from the transmission to the transfer case. Loosen but don’t remove the remaining bell housing bolts. Support the transmission then remove the remaining bolts. Lower the transmission then clean everything that you can while you have the extra room. If the clutch is worn replace it.
Reinstallation of the transmission is the reverse of above. Adjust everything up and grease the U-joints, fill or check the oil in the transmission and transfer case and away you go.

steelandcanvas

With any clutch replacement, it's always a good idea to re-surface the flywheel.

Jonathan
Secretary/Newsletter Editor, M.V.C.C. Denver, Colorado
M.V.P.A. #32113 U.S. ARMY 01/74-12/79 Proud PGR Member
1971 A.M. General M35A2 WO/W (still broken)
1987 A.M. General M35A2C W/W
1986 Libby MEP-003A mounted in a 1987 Kasel Mfg. M105A2
1986 M116A2 Trailer

www.mvcconline.org

clinto

I would definitely do a new rear main seal and if you have the $, go ahead and do the clutch.

__________________________________________________ _____________________________
1968 Baifield M274A5 Mule
1967 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 W/W w/dump conversion
1969 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 W/W
1987 Turtle Mountain M105A2

Official 2010 Steel Soldiers Ga Rally information thread:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/ga-rall...fo-thread.html


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DanMartin

I've always been told never to re-use flywheel bolts if you remove the flywheel from the vehicle....best to get new bolts (only a few dollars for the additional level of safety). I've only ever done clutches on GM vehicles, and this seems like sound advise. Not sure if it applies to the deuce, but it seems like such a simple thing that I can't imagine it being a liability. I typically replace all hardware that I feel is likely to see 80% or more of it's stress limits on a regular basis...

Not preaching here...just sharing my experiences. Safety is always in my "top one".

Dan Martin
1988 M35A2C (USAF)
1945 M29C Weasel
Hillsboro, OR.
MVPA# 31124
MVCCO# 828

We shall not cease from exploration
and the end of all our exploring
will be to arrive where we started
and know the place for the first time
- T.S. Eliot

m-35tom

no need to remove front drive shaft unless you have a winch, then it will help. fill trans before you put it in, it holds 5 qts. if you are going to attack the clutch you will want an old input shaft to use as alignment tool, it has to be almost perfect to just slide in, otherwise it will be fighting you. all in all a very simple, easy job.

tom bauer m-621
real 6 wheel drive - air lockers
real power steering - hydraulic
real fast - only .69 od in the world - for now at least
http://waterloospecialties.webs.com/
m-35 transmission expert
multifuel head gaskets, new style, $80, free shipping
avatar - 64mph @ 2400 rpm

rmgill

Hmm, re-surfacing the fly wheel will take additional time. I'll be doing this up in Virginia at Randy's farm which is where the truck is. He has a goodly amount of hardware including a tractor so we have easy way's to move heavy things and lots of tools on my truck plus what he has.

So, rear main seals, hard to do, simple? Obviously I need to look it up in the TM which I don't have at the immediate moment. Is it as simple as two bolts and some pushing with a seal driver?

Ryan Gill
15 Recce Re-enacting Group

1943 Humber Mk IV Armoured Car
1947 Jeep CJ2A basket case
1960 Daimler Ferret
1972 AM General M35A2
x2 M514 1Ton2Wheel Trailer

m-35tom

rear seal, no bolts, pry old seal out, should have three 1/4" holes on bottom to aid in oil drainage. press in new seal. flywheel only goes on in one position due to balancing, cut the head off a 3" bolt of the propper thread and screw it into one hole to aid in putting flywheel back on.

tom bauer m-621
real 6 wheel drive - air lockers
real power steering - hydraulic
real fast - only .69 od in the world - for now at least
http://waterloospecialties.webs.com/
m-35 transmission expert
multifuel head gaskets, new style, $80, free shipping
avatar - 64mph @ 2400 rpm

FSBruva

You're on the right track - I will try and dredge up some of the previous posts on this topic, but here's the nutshell from my experience:

1. Sometimes the rear main seal is in a retainer, which much be removed, and the new seal must be pressed into the aforementioned retainer prior to re-installation. If it's not, simultaneously pressing the new seal over shaft and into housing can be a very touchy operation. It required two people, and using the old seal as a driver with a block of wood. The seal is such an odd diameter that using any sort of standard pipe or fitting seemed impossible.

2. Unless you are absolutely sure it's perfect, bring another pilot bushing. That is easily removed with a slide hammer (with the little "L" attachment). Just shoot a little grease and press flat into the drive shaft.

3. Lowering tranny is easy-peasy with a run of the mill engine hoist - just pull the running board off one side to get the lift point over the transmission. It's easiest with two people, as getting the aft linkage down and past the crossmember can be kind of a pain. It helps to put the transmission in reverse to pull the linkage forward. (you'll get what I mean when you see it)

4. I remove the top transmission bolts last, as the transmission will hang there no problem.

As for the replacing flywheel bolts - I understand the safety point.... but it sounds like overkill to me. Military maintenance procedures did not prescribe such treatment through the 30+ years of deuce fleet maintenance. Does anyone have any anecdotes regarding flywheel bolt failures?

Matt

PS I have the input shaft off an old transmission, if you decide to do the clutch. I'll PM you.

jasonjc

I have a fold up eng hoist/shop crane (4000lbs) and it will NOT reach the trans. A 4X4 thought the windsheild and across the back and a chain hoist works will well.