Wheel Bearings Again - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite

zak · 11-03-2008, 12:02

When I got my truck a year ago, the right rearmost axle was was leaking. I put in new seals and repacked the bearings. I adjusted the bearings according to the TM, torque inner nut to 50 lbs and back off 1/16 to 1/4 turn. Torque outer 100 to 200ftlbs. After a test drive the hub was hot to the touch. After backing off twice more it ran as cool as the others ( just slightly warm ). After putting on about 500 miles this summer it started to leak again. I now discovered that the vent was plugged( air hissed out when I pushed down on it). After fixing the vent and repacking the bearings (new ones), I again adjusted the bearings by backing off a 1/4 turn and after a 10 mile run the hub was again hot to the touch ( way more than the others). I didn't have time to readjust it again.
I am using Valvoline non-disc wheel bearing grease, part no w608. I've never had a wheel bearing give me so much trouble. The wheel spins free on a jack and the brakes are not dragging. I can only assume that the bearing is still too tight. Unfortunately I can't get back to the truck for at least three weeks and by that time it might be under snow and will have to wait for spring. Do I just have a finicky wheel or am I using the wrong grease?

Barrman · 11-03-2008, 13:32

I personally think the lock nut is turning your adjusting nut in some.

Using the numbers to adjust a wheel bearing works most of the time. However, for a situation like yours. I would suggest this:

Pull off the outter tire. Pull the axle shaft and pick up the remaing tire/axle end. Grab the top of the tire and try to pull it to you and push it away from you. If there is any movement, the bearing is too loose. You might not see movement, but you can normally hear and almost always feel any slop in the bearing. Now, loosen the adjusting nut just a little at a time while testing for movement often. Stop when you feel a little "thunk thunk" in your hands. Tighten it back up just a hair at a time until the thunk, thunk goes away. Keep tightening and loosening until you find the exact spot between too loose and just right. Leave it on the loose side of that line. When you tighten up the lock nut, you will now be on the tight side of the line. If not, adjust in just a hair and try again.

The above should get you going ok. While I was typing it, I thought about the cork plug. Do you have the cork plug or at least something in the spindle key way to keep axle gear oil out of the bearings? If not, then that may be the cause of the bearing failure.

zak · 11-03-2008, 13:59

Cork is in place and gear oil is "one knuckle below filler hole". Your method of adjustment is in an older tm. I did the adjustment with outer wheel off, and tried to make sure inner nut didn't turn when the outer was adjusted. Will try again, this way.

800summit · 11-03-2008, 18:21

I just repacked and replaced 1 bearing and race on the rear axles, torqued to 50lbs then backed off 1/8 turn , did all this with the axle out, make sure the cork gasket is in place or you will be leaking past the outer seal. check with axle out for any binding on turning brake drum, then after all adjustments put axle back in and torque the 8 bolts

800summit · 11-03-2008, 19:44

also make sure the keyed washer that goes between the two nuts is in good condition and the 2 tabs go over the inner nut and the outer nut will need to have two of the tabs bent over so it does not move either 10-4