Lex_Ordo

So I have this new M35, and as it reaches the end of the restoration I need to check or adjust the brakes.

I replaced the rubber hoses, and I bled the system as well as introduced fresh DOT 5 to it. 1st I did the airpack and then all 6 wheels. After the bleed, the pedal doesn't catch high. It catches sort of 1/2 way down. Is there an adjustment on the wheels to help the wheel cylinders correct the shoe wear?

I can't pull the whees right now, since I don't have enough help to check and replace what I need to. I also want to wait a month or so until I get more funds. My help has been some friends who are very familiar with the Duece, but as life goes, someone needs to show me how to do the work before I start taking everything apart.

What manual should I be reading to assit me.

It is a fun truck to work on and relatively simple, but unfamiliarity can cause damage to parts that aren't easy to get.

54reo

Brake Inspections and Warnings

There are two adjustment "cams" for each shoe, one at the side and one at the bottom. One of the easier systems to adjust, but be sure to follow the adjustment specs (0.010" and 0.020") as each one out of adjustment a little will equate to a BIG difference in travel at the pedal.

There is also an adjustment on the pedal push rod, but it should only have a 1/2" travel at the pedal before the master cylinder piston moves.

If these are not adjusted correctly, you will have either a lot of pedal travel, or the brakes will lock up. The TM's will walk you through this as well.

While you are in there doing the brakes, it would be good to inspect and/or replace your wheel seals.

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bigmike

Ditto to above info...especially the part about reading the TMs. they will walk you straight thru the process.

Jake0147

The way you said this leaves me wondering, was the pedal better before?

The reason I ask is that replacing the brake fluid should NOT change the pedal feel in any way. If the pedal was up before you started bleeding, but is down now, it's not an adjustment issue in any way. It's air or it's a component (master or air pack) that's traveled further than it has in years, and "finished off" a weak link. Because it does get a pedal half way, I doubt that's your issue.

If I am misinterperiting this, and the pedal was an issue before, then you're on the right track, bleed first while there's more movement to help push the air around, and once that's done continue on to the adjustment procedures.

mbwarner

Since I can vouch for the fact that the M44 series cab was not designed for geezers of 5' 10" and 240 pounds, I'm gonna shorten the pushrod on my master cylinder so that it stops at 1/2 pedal or so. Right now, it stops at about two inches, which for me is with my knee nearly at the steering wheel. I hasten to add that my brakes are in primo shape with no seep at full pressure.

Lex_Ordo

Pedal is catching where I felt it before the hose change. Although it does feel somewhat spongey. The truck stops and the the brakes hold, so i think it is just an adjustment that needs to be made.
When stopped, if I pump the pedal, it catches higher.

I have the 10 manual, and it is good for familiarity, but I really need something with more technical mechanics, and schematics.
Which manual should i be reading next. The 20, 20P, ...?

Recovry4x4

Lex, that sure sounds like there is some air left in the system.

MB, there is an adjustment on the pedals itself. Check them out from the bottom, there are 3 slots (IIRC) for adjusting the pedal height without modding anything else.

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gimpyrobb

Try adjusting them first. No need to remove the rim. Like 54reo said .010 at the bottom, .020 top.