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Old 07-29-2009, 08:39   #1 (permalink)
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Default Should I tow M109 with M35A3?

In commemoration of my failed effort to drive my 109A3 from Warner Robbins to Illinois, I am considering options for hauling it.

I have several. First, finding somebody with a lowboy to haul it from Columbus GA up to the Rock Island IL area. Anybody know a reliable hauler?

Second, repairing the truck and continuing to drive. The auto shop it currently rests at fears catastrophic damage. I don't think so, but it could be. .... he notes 2 quarts extra oil but doesn't recon the slight extra to fill the filters. He notes gasket material blown outward, but that's expected. The truck starts and puffs thru the gap (shut down in seconds while confirming the failed head.) It needs head gaskets replaced and a different IP (which I have) installed.... at least. No water in the oil.

Third is to tow it with an M35A3 I have outside Huntsville. Not too far from Columbus.

While the A3 doesn't have a high top end, the more powerful engine should be better at hauling it thru Alabama and Tennessee than pulling a 109 with an M35A2 or another 109.

Has anybody had experience towing with an A3?. I look forward to your thoughts.
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Old 07-29-2009, 09:18   #2 (permalink)
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I pulled my m109 to Haspin with my m35a2c. I bet an a3 would pull just fine.
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Old 07-29-2009, 10:17   #3 (permalink)
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2qt over cold is about right. As far as towing: I towed a m818 with a m818 pice of cake. Now every one of my m35's I've tried to more with a tow bar has been a pain in the a .
The front wheel trun the wong way and fight me. But this may just be may bad luck just some thing to think about, also does the m35A3 run and STOP??
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Old 07-29-2009, 10:25   #4 (permalink)
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If a towed trucks fights you with the steering, strap the steering wheel to keep the front wheels straight. It will scrub around corners a bit, but not enough to worry about.
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Old 07-29-2009, 12:22   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gimpyrobb View Post
If a towed trucks fights you with the steering, strap the steering wheel to keep the front wheels straight. It will scrub around corners a bit, but not enough to worry about.
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Old 07-29-2009, 12:29   #6 (permalink)
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I recently towed my m109 with another m109 50mph on the highway 200 miles no probs! Takes some time to get up to speed. Check your fuel filters and have spares...it saved me lots of trouble.
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Old 07-29-2009, 14:04   #7 (permalink)
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The filters DO hold another 2qt of oil. I have always been advised to never tow a trailer heavier than the tow vehicle, unless the trailer has it's own brakes. The M109 needs to be fixed eventually, why not fix it there and drive it home?
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Old 07-29-2009, 14:11   #8 (permalink)
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I would rather fix ANYTHING at home with access to ALL my tools, rather than mess with something on the road. Maybe you forgot to bring a tool, maybe you need to look up something on this site. If you drive a deuce down to fix it and drive them BOTH home you have just doubled your fuel costs. .02
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Old 07-29-2009, 16:53   #9 (permalink)
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I have had the same problems with the front wheels. The longer the tow bar, the less of a problem.
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Old 07-29-2009, 17:35   #10 (permalink)
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I towed a 1960 Ford F100 with a U-Haul tow bar behind a 1987 Jeep Cherokee and had the front wheel issue, had to get out and straighten them after a sharp turn, but did OK on gradual turns. The Ford outweighed the Jeep, kept pushing us around, especially when the fronts would not track. I was only going cross town and had to take it slow, can't imagine going 800 miles that way.
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1970 M35A2 WO/W "Alice" SOLD
1971 M109A3 WO/W "Gertie"
1985 M1009 "Pinky"
1984 M1028 "Alice II"
1997 Pribbs M105A3
1966 Johnson M416
1991 Kasel M101A2 (on M116A2E1 chassis) "Crunchy"
1993 Kasel M101A2 "0TT0"
1985 Parkhurst M101A2 (soon to be a teardrop camper) "Ugly"

MEP-015A

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UK RT-349
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UK RT-351
Working on the HAM license...

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To all who served, and are serving: THANK YOU!
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