Hey guys,iv been reading here for a while now an have just recently purchased my first deuce
When i got the truck it had a leak under the ip head,well ordered the oring's an did some searching on the site before tackling the project,well i started an lined up the pointer with the red tooth an then pulled the head off,easy so far,replaced the oring's then when't to reinstall and the head wouldnt go in,well i noticed the washer over the gear in the back that meshes with the gear on the bottem of the head,the cut out wasn't centerd very well,so i turned the motor ever so slightly to center the cutout beter,and the head slid right in! the red tooth lined up with the pointer an i put the whole thing back together,well bled everything out an she fired up,but now it wont idle an runs rough,i went back an bled the injectors agin thinking i had air still in the lines but no air an nothing has changed .
So now im thinking iv messed up by moving the motor with the head out an im off on the timing,anybody think this is what that is or am i barking up the wrong tree and if it is out of time can sombody explain how to retime it?? iv read the manual but would like some insight in easyer to understand terms,if this is even the problem.Ive put over a hundred miles on the truck an it ran great till now and im itching to get it out of the drive way an on the road agin so any help would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.
Last edited by deuceinaround; 03-12-2010 at 01:52.
Welcome to the site!
Well done homework on the injection pump. How much did you have to turn the crankshaft to make the HD drop in? After removing it, nothing should have been moved and it should really have gone back in without a problem.
Before making any adjustments, check the timing, I'll post a couple of pictures in a bit...
Okay, these images show the marks that you need to check for the timing. The crankshaft makes two revs for every one of the IP main shaft revolution. The marks in the top "window" must align with the marks on the damper.
__________________
Bjorn
MEP-018A (needs new generator head)
Avatar: XM757 in OK prepared for 1,000 mile trip home. Part of 6,000 mile journey in 2006.
1968 M49A2C modified with 1960 M756A2 truck bed and 1975 HIAB 765A knuckleboom, exhaust brake, VIC-1 and more.
1969 Ford XM757 8x8, 5-ton Pershing 1A truck tractor...the "improved MV".
"Some things can't be made better, just differently......a lot of things actually"
Did you line up all of them like the pic Bjorn shows before removal. Three of them. I think you find when all are lined up and you look through the mirrior you will see the red tooth mark is not on the pointer but one tooth off to the rear. when you reinstall it is like a distrubutor in a car it takes a little feel for it but by turning it a bit one way or another it will drop back in with the tooth just where it was when you pulled it out.
Hey thanks for the replys guys,no all I did was turn the motor till I could see that the red tooth was lined up with the pointer an the pulled the head,but the cutout on the washer in the back was not completly centerd an I have no idea how it came out an would not go back in,but I was frustrated an I knew I shouldn't have done it but I did,an I didn't think I moved it more than one tooth on the gear,but the head went right in,but I will check these other timing marks as soon as I get a chance,its POURING rain here it may be late today or tomorow before I can get back to it,but just turn the motor till the to marks in the "window" line up an the mark on the damper,then the red tooth on the head should be one to the rear of its pointer??? Corect?? Thanks.
Last edited by deuceinaround; 03-12-2010 at 12:13.
When I did my first IP installs, I used the LDS Troubleshooting Manual. In paragraph K on page 39 it shows how to check the timing. Make sure you use the proper mark on the crankshaft for your engine. LD, LDT or LDS
Hmm.......which one is it,there's two marks close together,then one a little farther up the damper,an I'm thinking that's the LTD mark? I can see them on mine but there faint.
Ok guys,i lined up the proper mark on the damper an the mark in the "window" then looked for the red tooth and didn't see it,so i turned every thing a complete round lined every thing up agin an now i can see the red tooth,it's one tooth to the right of the pointer "or rear" of the pointer,is that correct??? If so apparently i have other problems,when it fires up it will rev to the govovenr but sounds like it has a skip,an most of the time it won't idile,iv bled the injectors,an when you open the lines every one has an effect on the way it runs.
So any more help or advice will be greatly apreciated,im geting sick of not being able to use it so thanks for any help.
Okay I reread you last post. Since the timing is correct and it is revving to the max, it sounds like the Fuel Control Rod is sticking.
When you reinstalled the HH did you check for proper movement? The little Plunger Sleeve Pin at the end of the Fuel Control Rod HAS to line up with the plunger sleeve groove and move freely.
Here is a related post that has some things to check. Check out post #13
YAAAAY!!!! Thatnk you so much! It was the control rod I had not had the tooth in the grove the whole time,but it runs fine now,an I picked up all my filters today from napa,so a complete fluid/filter chang is coming next,an I will post pics later showing the truck an the trailer hitch I have just installed,this is a great site an you will proly be seeing a lot more of me from now on.
Thanks,Nathan.
*HELP!!* Hydraulic head removal gone wrong
.
and if it is out of time can sombody explain how to retime it?? iv read the manual but would like some insight in easyer to understand terms,if this is even the problem.Ive put over a hundred miles on the truck an it ran great till now and im itching to get it out of the drive way an on the road agin so any help would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.
