What's the best way to mount tubeless 2-piece Combat wheels?
I wanted to post this in the Deuce section because I figured that is where the most folks would see it, and I think a lot of people want to use these wheels recentered on the M35. I am planning on putting them on my 5 ton, however.
I just got 4 of my 10"x20" combat wheels back from sandblasting and powdercoating and they look like brand new! They came with new o-rings that have never been used before. So, I know some guys have had trouble with air leaks on these rims, and just use tubes. I want to try to mount one up without the tube first and see how it holds pressure. I have 4 of the rubber beadlocks, so I am going to have to run 2 wheels without them.
The tires are 16-20 XL's.
So whats the best technique? Do you use silicone? Where/how?
(oh, by the way - I will likely have 2 more of these wheels for sale in about a month if anyone wants them)
Here is what I do, the manual may provide better insight. Insert beadlock. Make sure the rim is clear of debris and smooth. Make sure tire bead is smooth and clean and use a little tire bead goo. Set rim on a small block to eleveate from the ground a few inches. Lay tire over base of rim. Add top of rim and bolt them up, no silicone required. Air them up to 80-90PSI and check for leaks. A little WD-40 and a sledgehammer have worked out any leaks I have found. Good luck. Report back on your success and with some pictures!
You don't use any lube on the o-ring to ease the outer rim edge over it? It seems like the o-ring would seal better with some silicone grease on it. Does anyone know what manual I can refer to for the Gov't 's mounting instructions?
The wheels are the set I bought on Ebay and had shipped up from California. I just had them sandblasted clean, and they are getting a nice new coat of semigloss black powdercoat. Then I just need to do the same thing to the other wheels next month and I'll be set. I'll take some pics.
You don't use any lube on the o-ring to ease the outer rim edge over it?
I don't know what you are referring to here. On the rims I have, the oring lies in a groove and is compressed when the bolts are tightened. What do you mean "ease the outer rim edge over it?"
Well, my wheels are 2 piece, with the outer ring sliding down over the rim like a sleeve. The o-ring sits in a groove, but it's a sideways groove (if that makes sense) and the outer piece sort of rolls over it when you are bolting the wheel together. I just figured that the o-ring might need some lube to protect it and help it seal. I guess I'll just put one together and see how it goes.
One more question - whereis the best placeto get replacement o-rings and valve stems for these wheels? They use a really funny loking two-way valve stem that has a big brass fitting that is sealed with a nut onto the wheel, and then two valve stems that come off either direction. The rubber seals are messed up on two of them, and the stem threads are damaged on one.
Oh man. I've been spending the past few weeks swapping the 16r20's on my buggy for old, 1940's style combat rims (old school!).
My technique to seat the beads (around the internal beadlock I made from plastic) has been to lay the rim on the ground, and use a highlift between the rim and the back of my deuce.
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Old Build:
1968 M35A2, repowered with Cat 3208T and Spicer 6855 .695 OD - mostly* sold
Ross Hydrapower steering - still available
Next build - Cummins 6CT, RTOO-14613, M35a2 Tcase, 5 ton axles, Arvin Meritor 16.5x7 Q series brakes, M35a2 sheetmetal*, 14.00x20 Michelin XL's on HEMTT wheels.
Status: Runs and drives, needs front driveshaft.
What's the best way to mount tubeless 2-piece Combat wheels?
