but I wonder if there are any mild steel (non graded) pins similar to the ones I used to use in my bailer that would work. I hadn't considered brass. Any comments?
I'm familiar with shear pins used in a New Holland baler. They would be too hard.
Anybody considering using anything but the stock pins needs to take a look at the chart gringeltaube took the time to research. All of the steel pins he tested were above the safe limit.
PLEASE READ THR CHART. He has taken hours of his time and money to do testing with nothing to gain other than helping us not destroy our winches.
My friend also thought steel was simple. He put a roll pin in there. The hook on the 5T winch got caught on the bumper and the next thing he heard was the PTO being ripped off of the side of the transmission. Time for a new PTO and new transmission. It literally tore a large chunk away from the tranny.
What we need to find is the particular alloy of aluminum that is specified. They would not cost much to make. I can have a boatload made in a shop. All I need is one to work from and the alloy. Irv
I have used a cotter key that just fits in with great success. I have no way to test the tinsel strength though. It maybe to strong. If it is I have been very fortunate. Has anyone tested a cotter key? That would be a cheap fix if it is safe.
What we need to find is the particular alloy of aluminum that is specified. They would not cost much to make. I can have a boatload made in a shop. All I need is one to work from and the alloy. Irv
2024 AL
Quote:
Originally Posted by hank
I wonder how well a pto farm tractor pin from tractor supply would do ?
Too hard.
Both of these questions have been answered earlier in the thread.
My brotherinlaw got his old dump truck with 10 tons of dirt stuck in his yard yesterday,so he called me to pull him out.I thought this would be a good time to try the winch out for the first time.I chained my truck to a tree and I sheared 3 aluminum pins real easy.I even double lined it.I thought this winch was stronger than that.I know its a lot of weight to pull but it didnt do much pulling before it stopped pulling.I was going to put a bolt in it but couldnt do it I didnt want to break the winch.After pulling hime forward and backwards a few times I got him out.One day im going to really need that winch to pull me out,is it going to do the job.
Over the years, I have done extensive winching with both the Garwood & Braden winches. I use soft steel sheer pins. I have never torn up anything!. That said, keep in mind that sheer pins will just naturally get tired and fail, even within the recommended load limits. The Garwood should be capable of dragging a Deuce with its brakes locked, at an idle. If you have to rev the engine, to do the pull, you need a snatch block in the line, maybe even two, depending on conditions. Winching is serious business. Nothing is "Fool Proof"! The winch, drum, line - everything, needs constant attention/constant vigilance. It is inherently dangerous!!!! Winching takes substantial skill, care, and thought! It also takes substantial grunt work. There are no short cuts!
Lee in Alaska
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The quickest killer of shear pins is allowing the winch or load to jerk. Slow and steady are the rule with winches. No quickly winding up the cable and letting it snap tight, or dumping the clutch... Slow and steady.
Also, if a truck is buried in the wheel trenches it dug, a straight pull is going to take a tremendous amount of force to free her. Dig a ramp out of the hole, arrange your winch cable so that it pulls up and forward.
Think about the last time you creeped your truck over a high square curb head-on. That is easy compared to pulling a truck that is buried up to its axles.
Also, if the holes that the winch shear pin fits through are wallowed out in size, you are never again going to get good service out of a shear pin. You must either replace the parts, or take them to a machine shop and have them renewed back to nominal size.
