I tore down my airpack today to rebuild it. The air can, for lack of a better term, was full of water, brake fluid and rust. I got a honing tool to clean it up but the pits are pretty deep. Does anybody have a trick to refinish the inside of the can? I'm afraid if I hone the can long enough to remove the deep pits, I'll be able to read the newspaper through it.
Does this thing need to be smooth as glass or just smooth enough not to tear the rubber seal or what?
Do you apply an epoxy or metal filler and hone it smooth?
You need a new Airpak. The large cylinder is what provides the boost, no compromise here.
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Bjorn
MEP-018A (needs new generator head)
Avatar: XM757 in OK prepared for 1,000 mile trip home. Part of 6,000 mile journey in 2006.
1968 M49A2C modified with 1960 M756A2 truck bed and 1975 HIAB 765A knuckleboom, exhaust brake, VIC-1 and more.
1969 Ford XM757 8x8, 5-ton Pershing 1A truck tractor...the "improved MV".
"Some things can't be made better, just differently......a lot of things actually"
Well, dang. I was afraid of that. I have a new MC on the bench, hopefully by next Friday I'll have a new airpack sitting next to it and by Saturday I'll have brakes.
Forgive my ignorance, but that air can looks nothing like the two that I just rebuilt. Does that make it an older or newer style? It doesn't match what is in any of my TMs either?
When I rebuild mine, what is the best way to clean them? I have a glass bead cabinet, is that going to leave too rough a texture on the surface for it to seal? I currently have aluminum oxide running through the cabinet.
I don't how how it's supposed to be done but I rented a 4" cylinder hone from Autozone and bought some rough stones for it. I was going to get the pits out with the coarse stone and then polish it smooth with the fine stones it came with.
airpack rebuild, deep pits in the air can
