liljohn

Ok, here's the situation. I have no turn signals or brake lights. It's not an uncommon problem I know, so I've read all the threads I can find here (and have started a couple of my own).

Up to this point I have:
A) Checked the ground and the wires at the flasher module, including re-mounting the thing with new bolts.
B) Disassembled, cleaned and tested the multiswitch
C) Dissasembled, cleaned and tested the turn signal switch, including sanding and cleaning the grounding area on the steering wheel tube

NOTHIN.

I've got all my Deuce manuals back in Ohio, not here in Michigan where my Deuce is. Anyone have the appropriate wiring diagram they could post so I can check this stuff out?

Can a shot flasher unit cause the brakelights to not work, too? Is there any way to test the flasher unit to see if it's working?

I'm reaching for straws here... I need to have this thing legally on the road at the end of December, and I'm not home much to work on it....

Thanks in advance, guys!

Recovry4x4

The flasher unit can cause you to have no brake lights as well. Looking like its the unit.

Mr Minimum Bid.

M108 M1008
M35A2C M105A2 (X3)
M101A3 M116A2
M116A3

This Steel Soldier Honors the Living Memory of David Frankenhauser, 1954-2009.
May you Sail in the Grace of Our Lord, Chaplain!

“The earnest prayer of a righteous person has great power and produces wonderful results.” James 5:16.

liljohn

Ok. I'll start poking around for a replacement.

Recovry4x4

Also, try this link. Its for a PDF of the wiring harnes.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.p...ad&id=1573

Mr Minimum Bid.

M108 M1008
M35A2C M105A2 (X3)
M101A3 M116A2
M116A3

This Steel Soldier Honors the Living Memory of David Frankenhauser, 1954-2009.
May you Sail in the Grace of Our Lord, Chaplain!

“The earnest prayer of a righteous person has great power and produces wonderful results.” James 5:16.

cranetruck

This is from a 5-ton truck, but should generally apply to your deuce.

You can test the flasher on the work bench by connecting 24vdc to "B", ground "C" and hook a light bulb from "A" to ground.
As long as the 24vdc is applied, the bulb should flash about 80 times/minute.

Attached Images

	flasher_circuit_213.jpg (167.5 KB, 1194 views)

Bjorn
Virginia's Blue Ridge Mountains

(Link to PS magazines: http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=gallery)

Avatar: XM757 in OK prepared for 1,000 mile trip home. Part of 6,000 mile journey in 2006.
1968 M49A2C modified with 1960 M756A2 truck bed and 1975 HIAB 765A knuckleboom. Heated dual tank system for biodiesel/veggie oil use.
1969 Ford XM757 8x8, 5-ton Pershing 1A truck tractor, the "improved" MV.
"Some things can't be made better, just differently......a lot of things actually"

liljohn

Awesome, thanks Cranetruck...

You know I think when I finally get this thing solved I'm gonna write an article bringing together all the great info I've gotten on this problem. A front-to-back diagnosis and repair guide for this situation.

cranetruck

It would help to know what IS working and in what position your 3-lever switch is in.

Bjorn
Virginia's Blue Ridge Mountains

(Link to PS magazines: http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=gallery)

Avatar: XM757 in OK prepared for 1,000 mile trip home. Part of 6,000 mile journey in 2006.
1968 M49A2C modified with 1960 M756A2 truck bed and 1975 HIAB 765A knuckleboom. Heated dual tank system for biodiesel/veggie oil use.
1969 Ford XM757 8x8, 5-ton Pershing 1A truck tractor, the "improved" MV.
"Some things can't be made better, just differently......a lot of things actually"

liljohn

Everything else works properly (including marker lights when set). No bulbs are burnt out. But left and right turn signals, hazard lights, and brake lights do not function.

I've tested the turn signals and brake lights in literally every configuration possible on the 3-lever switch.

Anyway I just got done testing the flasher unit. This is what I found:

I have 24volts out to the unit, so everything up to there looks fine.

With 24V applied to B and C grounded, I put a voltmeter from A to ground and got a reading of 11.24 volts, steady. Now granted a voltmeter isn't very good at picking up something like flashing, but if there were any variation in the current I wouldn't get a steady signal like that.

But the interesting thing is when I connected a lightbulb, I get: Nothing. It doesn't light up at all. I tried it with two seperate bulbs with the same result. I also tested the second lightbulb on another 12V source both before and after testing the flasher unit, and it worked fine, so I know I didn't burn it out.

So anyway, looks to me like the flasher unit is shot. It's putting out 11V, but basically 0A. Sounds like a short...

liljohn

SUCESS!!

I was thinking, and it stood to reason that if I shorted B & A together, then flipping the turn signal switch would result in the appropriate signals being solid on. I gave it a shot and it worked! Brake lights, too!

So now I know for sure what the problem is. I also have a nice little tidbit of info if this ever happens again. Shorting those pins together will at least give you brake lights, which, if combined with hand signals, can keep you legal enough to drive it home safely if needed.

I am now officially one happy camper. Thanks, guys.

Recovry4x4

Good troubleshooting Brian! Glad its been solved.

Mr Minimum Bid.

M108 M1008
M35A2C M105A2 (X3)
M101A3 M116A2
M116A3

This Steel Soldier Honors the Living Memory of David Frankenhauser, 1954-2009.
May you Sail in the Grace of Our Lord, Chaplain!

“The earnest prayer of a righteous person has great power and produces wonderful results.” James 5:16.