For the two with exposed threads. I would clean em up good, wire wheel etc. make sure there is no piece of thread or weld that will impede it from coming out. find a washer that will just fit over the stud sticking out and weld it to the stud, really focus the heat of the weld to the center. let it cool just til the color is gone and pound it really hard so it starts to flatten the weld metal out. set a nut of sufficent size over the washer and stud. weld the nut to the washer down the center of the nut, let it cool just till the color is gone again. If an air wrench is handy, use it. the vibration should help bring her out along with the heat from the welding. Sometimes a good soaking with penetrating oil while hot will help, as the oil cools the material it wicks down the threads.
The one that is below the surface can be done the same way if you can keep the weld from getting to the surrounding metal. If its a larger bolt, ie . 5/8 or bigger a short piece of copper pipe placed over the bolt will allow you to weld through it and not stick to the parnet material and build up the stud to get it above the surface so attaching a washer is easier.
Or drill it dead center all the way through, sometimes you can feel the bit pass through the bottom. Again some heat and pentrating oil. If its really rusted in and wount budge I have drilled them to the point the threads are about all thats left and peel em out with a pick. or take a torch and heat the remaining threads red hot, they will heat fast as they are not part of the parent materila. let em cool/shrink and pick em out.
probly not , you want them red hot them soak them in WD40 or a better product. repeat a few times and if they arent rust welded in they might come out with vise grips if there is enough to grab. try to find a LH drill bit also , sometime they come right out.
Keep in mind that if the welding thing doesn't work, you just capped the broken bolt with a nice hard weld. Not very easy to drill through. I'd do the drill down the center. Start with a regular rotation bit 1/8 in. or so, then use LH bits. Worst case, you drill to the edge of the threads and then use a tap to clean the hole.
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Were talking about a steel bolt in an aluminum housing, right? EZ Out is your first try, soak with penetrating oil for a long while, then use the largest EZ out you can, drill as large a hole as possible. This may still not get the bolt to budge in the corroded aluminum. Then, you may have to drill the bolt out completely, and retap the hole and rethread using a heli-coil.
Be carefull with heat on the AL winch housing. You can tell when steel gets too hot but you won't know with AL untill it's puddled up on the floor . This is a common problem because steel bolts in AL will alot of times corrode really bad. When you do get the out be sure to use anti-sieze on the threads to keep this from happening again .
Be carefull with heat on the AL winch housing. You can tell when steel gets too hot but you won't know with AL untill it's puddled up on the floor . This is a common problem because steel bolts in AL will alot of times corrode really bad. When you do get the out be sure to use anti-sieze on the threads to keep this from happening again .
Ditto. Over time, AL and steel will chemically react to each other. Ever have an aluminum intake leak coolant on an older engine? And for sure use anti-sieze on the bolts when reassembling.
I have been soaking the bolts with PB Blaster. I have had good luck with that product over the years. I will soak the bolts for a few days, tapping with each application and see what happens with a little heat. If I am bored, I may drill on them some also.
You learn a lot fooling around with old Army stuff.
Broken bolts in blocks, winches etc.
. This is a common problem because steel bolts in AL will alot of times corrode really bad. When you do get the out be sure to use anti-sieze on the threads to keep this from happening again 
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