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| Most users ever online was 902, 10-29-2011 at 05:09. |
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09-20-2009, 14:04
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#11 (permalink)
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Circle-X Expert
Steel Soldiers Vendor
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Western NC
Posts: 1,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoctorCheney223
Here is the info located on the cover of the PCB.
NSN: 6110-01-395-9585
Manufacture: Prestolite Electronics, Inc.
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Old one, so you have a seperate glow plug controller that is likely bad.
However, instead of buying a new controller, since they are obsolete and no lonegr made, I would look for a new style PCB that eliminates the need for a controller.
6110-01-491-2152
6110-01-491-2142
are the two best ones.
__________________
Old Grouch's Military Surplus Clyde, NC 888-627-0361
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09-22-2009, 13:17
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#12 (permalink)
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Sergeant
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Occupied Kalifornia
Posts: 70
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It sounds like your Glow plug controller is toast...But it gets worse...It also most likely took out your glow plugs. This is what I would do......Replace your PCB "Blackbox" with a KDS yellow label EESS, Replace the Glow plug controller "GPC" in the water cross over tube with the "Yellow banded" KDS Temp Sensor. I prefer the Yellow label KDS EESS unit over the "Green" Label "KDS".
If you cannot find a Yellow label model then try for the Green label version, the Green label Version Does NOT require the Yellow banded Temp sensor, only the yellow label version requires Temp Sensor.
Now Pull all you glow plugs and test them...But better yet, Call Kascar and order 8 new Non-swelling glow plugs, they have a thermal resistor built in and you can;t smoke them due to a bad GPC or EESS, they reach max temp and basically shutdown.
I CANNOT stress the importance of being ever so careful in removing your old glowplugs, if they are swollen you run the risk of them breaking off while removing them. DO NOT FORCE them out! They make a tool for stuborn ones.
You can also remove an Injector so you can catch the broken piece also.
I would remove them one at a time, if you come upon a stuck one move on to the next one, then double back to work on that one or 2 or 3 etc....Yikes.
Lastly...If and when you are done replacing your PCB with an EESS and new Glow plugs you will need to install the second most important item, An Aux ground Harness....The HMMWV suffers from terrible grounds.
The Harness can be made locally, I have a HMMWV that will NOT start without this Harness. You can guy everything local, Get some nice Heavy Gauge wire, I like #8. The Harness Looks like a spider..if that makes sense, You start at the left rear Engine Block ground stud:
Run one new ground to a mounting bolt of the EESS
Run one new ground to the Generator Grnd
Run one new ground to the Starter
Run one new ground to the Ground stud on the firewall, this ground can
be accessed by removing the Gauge panel, look to your far right and you will see a stud that feeds from there to the engine side.
Terminate all 4 ends into a common 9/16 or 3/4in Electrical connector that has a Hole in it, Attatch that to the Engine Grnd stud found at the left rear of the Engine Block.
Once all this is Done I can say without reservation that your starting issues will be gone forever...Minus dead batteries,No fuel or bad Pump.
I have had 5 HMMWV's and I have done this to every one of them.
__________________
TheHummerGuy
1998 Black Turbo Diesel Wagon
1987 M998 HMMWV Slantback
1985 Special Forces GMV
1986 M1009 CUCV
1968 M274A2 MULE
1989 M101A2 Trailer
MVPA 24300
MVCC
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