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| Most users ever online was 902, 10-29-2011 at 05:09. |
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11-06-2009, 09:28
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#1 (permalink)
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4 Star General
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 1,506
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Valve clearence adjustment.
Does anyone know what the clearence adustments would be with the engine cold? We whave the intake and exaust manafolds off to fix the leaks. And udjusting the valves with everything off and cool would be much more pleasent. That and it would be easier to teach the kiddo when he can see it better. Thanks,
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11-06-2009, 13:45
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#2 (permalink)
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Sergeant Major
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Elizabethtown, PA
Posts: 102
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Run a search on this - read Charles Talbert's posts.
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11-08-2009, 09:39
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#3 (permalink)
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4 Star General
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 1,506
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After running different searches, all i get it a post on multifuels. Or a thread on lead subs.
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11-08-2009, 13:14
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#4 (permalink)
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4 Star General
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Brooks,Ga
Posts: 1,376
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I don't know about cold but .015 hot for both the intake and exhaust as per "Change one"in the rebuild manual. when I did mine I bought a pair of gloves and cut out the fingers, this helped to keep my knuckles from burning on the exhaust manifold. If I was to set them cold I would would do them about .016 (maybe a little looser on the ex valves) then check at tempeture
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11-11-2009, 10:33
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#5 (permalink)
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Colonel
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Marion, IN
Posts: 265
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I know this has been discussed several times on the G741.org site. Might find more specific specs there.
__________________
Mike
Marion, IN
1954 M37 W/OW
Indiana MVPA
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01-22-2011, 19:26
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#6 (permalink)
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Corporal
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: elgin illinois
Posts: 33
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Many years ago, like 30, I was a fork lift mechanic. All fork lifts back then had flat head engines made by Hercules or Continental. The rule if thumb for cold setting valve lash was add .001 to the intake setting and add .002 to the exhaust setting over what the specs called for. So for a .014 exhaust valve setting, if doing it cold you would set the clearance at .016. Never had a problem and rebuilt hundreds of engines. Used the same rule of thumb on my M37. Back then mechanics rebuilt there own engines and only sent them out for major machine shop work like reboring. Good luck.
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01-22-2011, 20:19
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#7 (permalink)
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Colonel
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Havre de Grace, Md.
Posts: 245
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Last edited by Carter; 01-22-2011 at 20:30.
Reason: info
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01-22-2011, 20:34
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#8 (permalink)
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4 Star General
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Brooks,Ga
Posts: 1,376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carter
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.010 & .013 are wrong
These were the old settings that the mil superceded in 1951 ( Change order one) to .015 hot for both in /ex
I originally did my ( rebuilt ) 230 at the old settings and always had a flutter on the vac gauge ( thought it was the carb ) that dissappeared when I reset them both to .015.
When the engine warms up the gap gets smaller not larger due to heat expansion of the metals, like Gunny stated you must add extra gap for cold setting
Last edited by Bill W; 01-22-2011 at 23:47.
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